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From: Time is a great teacher. Unfortunately, it kills all its pupils.
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Battery: Is This Possible?
Went for a tune as my idle suddenly went whack. Idling very rough with AC on and car in gear.
The tuner says I have a problem with the MAF as the air/fuel ratio spikes when he floors it on the dyno and then levels out to normal. I have a new one on order and will be taking the car back to him.
Unfortunately, after 3 pulls on the dyno, everything, and I mean everything, is whacked out now. Idle is worse, the car surges, lurches, sounds like it’s misfiring, gear shifts are horrible, check engine light has come back on and gas mileage has gone completely out the window. I think I’m going to ask that the tuner just restore my original tune.
I talked to the tuner yesterday about how bad my car is running and he is saying it might be my battery. Is that even possible? Stock battery on a 2 ½ year old car.
My understanding is that if you get three years out of a battery, you're doing good...on my Brand P cars, the German batteries were only good for about that long...now I once had a Sears Die-Hard in an old Jeep CJ that went a long, long time, but I suspect that was a serious flook...
About your MAF Sensor...do you have a K&N style oil impregnated filter on your car? If so, the oil has been known to get deposited on the MAF & screw them up...at least in my previous experience with Brand P, I'm not sure if it applies to Corvettes...
Battery longevity aside, could it be the cause of his tune issues?
Did the tuner have any other theories other than the battery?
Doubt its the battery. A loose connection perhaps. Though its a fact our corvette batteries are not lasting as long as yesteryear.
Put a METER on the terminal of the ALTERNATOR. See if it measures 12.5
to 12.6 Volts DC without the engine running. with the meter connected wiggel the battery terminals and the heavy lead going to the fuse box also the alternator terminal itself. If the reading is rock steady I doubt your battery is causing this. Start the engine and again look at the meter on
the Alternator terminal . Is it at 14.5vdc. This is a good test although
more comprehensive tests can be done. I would be satisfied with the power system at this point.
From: Time is a great teacher. Unfortunately, it kills all its pupils.
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Flies Lo
My understanding is that if you get three years out of a battery, you're doing good...on my Brand P cars, the German batteries were only good for about that long...now I once had a Sears Die-Hard in an old Jeep CJ that went a long, long time, but I suspect that was a serious flook...
About your MAF Sensor...do you have a K&N style oil impregnated filter on your car? If so, the oil has been known to get deposited on the MAF & screw them up...at least in my previous experience with Brand P, I'm not sure if it applies to Corvettes...
Ok, thanks.
I have a Vararam CAI and it has an oil impregnated filter. The guys at the shop thought the same as you did and pulled the MAF and cleaned it to no avail.
From: Time is a great teacher. Unfortunately, it kills all its pupils.
Cruise-In VIII Veteran
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by LSCHLEM
Doubt its the battery. A loose connection perhaps. Though its a fact our corvette batteries are not lasting as long as yesteryear.
Put a METER on the terminal of the ALTERNATOR. See if it measures 12.5
to 12.6 Volts DC without the engine running. with the meter connected wiggel the battery terminals and the heavy lead going to the fuse box also the alternator terminal itself. If the reading is rock steady I doubt your battery is causing this. Start the engine and again look at the meter on
the Alternator terminal . Is it at 14.5vdc. This is a good test although
more comprehensive tests can be done. I would be satisfied with the power system at this point.
Doubt its the battery. A loose connection perhaps. Though its a fact our corvette batteries are not lasting as long as yesteryear.
Put a METER on the terminal of the ALTERNATOR. See if it measures 12.5
to 12.6 Volts DC without the engine running. with the meter connected wiggel the battery terminals and the heavy lead going to the fuse box also the alternator terminal itself. If the reading is rock steady I doubt your battery is causing this. Start the engine and again look at the meter on
the Alternator terminal . Is it at 14.5vdc. This is a good test although
more comprehensive tests can be done. I would be satisfied with the power system at this point.
Originally Posted by jaxgator
Thanks for the tips. I'll have a look.
With all respect, testing the battery with an electrical meter can be misleading. Many times, a battery with a bad cell will read 12+ volts, but with a load, it will cr@p out.
Do this: Put the voltage meter on the battery as suggested, but also put a small 12v light bulb across the battery. Something like a backup lamp, #1157 or similar. If the voltage drops under 12v, and heads deeper into the 11v range every few seconds, = bad battery.
If it drops a 10th of a volt or two and holds, = reasonably good battery.
Test the alternator with the engine running, yes, but with the headlamps on also. Low voltage with headlamps means a bad charging circuit.
Cheers!
Last edited by fnbrowning; Jun 15, 2010 at 01:40 PM.
Reason: spelling
With all respect, testing the battery with an electrical meter can be misleading. Many times, a battery with a bad cell will read 12+ volts, but with a load, it will cr@p out.
Do this: Put the voltage meter on the battery as suggested, but also put a small 12v light bulb across the battery. Something like a backup lamp, #1157 or similar. If the voltage drops under 12v, and heads deeper into the 11v range every few seconds, = bad battery.
If it drops a 10th of a volt or two and holds, = reasonably good battery.
Test the alternator with the engine running, yes, but with the headlamps on also. Low voltage with headlamps means a bad charging circuit.
Cheers!
You are correct. A weak cell could show good without a load on it. Each cell is a little over 2 volts. I really don't think it's the battery. If it's that bad it would have to have a dead cell and not show much over 10 volts. I think you have a tuning issue.
With all respect, testing the battery with an electrical meter can be misleading. Many times, a battery with a bad cell will read 12+ volts, but with a load, it will cr@p out.
Do this: Put the voltage meter on the battery as suggested, but also put a small 12v light bulb across the battery. Something like a backup lamp, #1157 or similar. If the voltage drops under 12v, and heads deeper into the 11v range every few seconds, = bad battery.
If it drops a 10th of a volt or two and holds, = reasonably good battery.
Test the alternator with the engine running, yes, but with the headlamps on also. Low voltage with headlamps means a bad charging circuit.
Cheers!
Good test. However the Car's electrical system does not run off the battery. The battery is used only to start the Car. Once the engine is running the Alternator does all the work. The Op did not mention any fault displays.
He did say he took it to the garage and they cleaned the MAF SENSOR.
I wonder if the Garage put a scanner on to read the CEL's Thats the next thing I would do. i think the tuner could have said a little more than he did. If he is getting CEL's and should be with his description of
how the car is carrying on.
An easy test here would be to simply unplug the MAF so the ECM goes into a substitute mode where (from what I know about the LS engines) it uses the MAP sensor instead. An otherwise healthy engine will run completely normal with the MAF unplugged.
I'm a BMW tech and have seen problems like this caused by a bad (or oil soaked) MAF. Unplugging it eliminated the problem and is a sure way to diagnose the meter.
An easy test here would be to simply unplug the MAF so the ECM goes into a substitute mode where (from what I know about the LS engines) it uses the MAP sensor instead. An otherwise healthy engine will run completely normal with the MAF unplugged.
I'm a BMW tech and have seen problems like this caused by a bad (or oil soaked) MAF. Unplugging it eliminated the problem and is a sure way to diagnose the meter.
Andy
Sorry about that. But by pulling the MAF Plug you also loose the IAT signal. Some cars have the IAT a separate plug harness and in that event pulling the MAF Plug would then utilize the MAP pressure to establish control. You make a good point there.