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It depends upon where it was set at the factory. Generally the front comes down nicely on stock bolts but the rear needs lowering bolts. I got about 5 turns out of the front bolts and that brought it down 3/4". The rear was only 1 turn from full low so I had to go with lowering bolts in the rear. This seems to be about how most of them come from the factory, the front has room to lower, the rear is already almost set to full low. As far as rubbing issues, what? No rubbing what so ever at stock height or lowered with stock size tires. Never heard of any issues with that.
rubbing turning slow speed turning. I guess might be my wheels. I searched some post and alot of people are getting rubbing but unsure if thats stock height or lowered.
If the "rubbing" you're talking about sounds like the tires being dragged sideways across the pavemant it's normal during a very tight low speed turn. The tires are not rubbing part of the car but are "skipping" sideways across the ground, it happens on many performance cars with wide front tires. Because the inside and outside tires travel a different distance during a turn all cars have an ackerman (spelling?) angle where the front tires turn a different number of degrees from each other. However, at very tight turns the angle may not be perfect which is what causes the condition you're experiencing. It's also called bump steer.
If the "rubbing" you're talking about sounds like the tires being dragged sideways across the pavemant it's normal during a very tight low speed turn. The tires are not rubbing part of the car but are "skipping" sideways across the ground, it happens on many performance cars with wide front tires. Because the inside and outside tires travel a different distance during a turn all cars have an ackerman (spelling?) angle where the front tires turn a different number of degrees from each other. However, at very tight turns the angle may not be perfect which is what causes the condition you're experiencing. It's also called bump steer.
No, this is not bump steer.
also its not a condition that is casued by wide front tires.
Its very common n C6 vette becasue the rear diff fluid has not been changed and the rear diff is acting like a locker, pushing both rear tires at the same rate making your front want to skip becasue they are trying to turn the car shap.
could need an alinment, could need the rear fluid serviced. but in a parking lot you are not experinceing bump steer.
I agree with Marc8090 as far as lowering goes. It is dependant on where it was set at the factory. Mine was set about 2 turns out on the rear and I didnt touch the front, which makes a level appearance. If you want to slam it, you will need to go with aftermarket bolts or coilover shocks. For me, lowered on stock bolts was enough. Scrap a little in the front going down my driveway and had to make extentions for my car ramps so I dont hit the front. It is super easy to do too. It will take you longer to get the stuff out than to actually do it.
I also agree with HalJensen with getting an alignment. If you just got the car I would atleast have it checked. Mine was within limits but I had them take some of the negative camber out of it as I drive it on the street more than a track so I am more worried about wear on the inside of the front tires than having the outside wheel flat during cornering. BTW, I saw no noticable (negative)difference in cornering by doing it. It matters on the track but not really on the street. Just my 2 cents.
no this is not a plug for your product the problem in the thread is to do with wheels rubbing during low speed turning and if its same on stock or if lowered cars have more of it...
no this is not a plug for your product the problem in the thread is to do with wheels rubbing during low speed turning and if its same on stock or if lowered cars have more of it...
also its not a condition that is casued by wide front tires.
Its very common n C6 vette becasue the rear diff fluid has not been changed and the rear diff is acting like a locker, pushing both rear tires at the same rate making your front want to skip becasue they are trying to turn the car shap.
could need an alinment, could need the rear fluid serviced. but in a parking lot you are not experinceing bump steer.
so u wont get bump steer at low parking lots speeds? im confused...
so u wont get bump steer at low parking lots speeds? im confused...
Bump steer is just what it sounds like, you hit a bump and the suspension motion causes the wheel(s) to change direction a bit. It has nothing to do with parking lot activities (except maybe slalom and autocross )
I would STONGLY suggest a 4-way alignment...both front and rear...it takes away all the darting, improves tire wear (if they don't have wear patterns already), and makes the car a joy to drive again...
What is the stock ride height and where is it measured from? Also, when adjusting the stock bolts how much does each turn raise/lower the car?
Well.....here's info from the Service Manual. Most people set the ride height according to how they like the car to look, but if you really want to adjust it to factory specs, here ya go!!:
The front ride height measurement is called the "Z Height", and the rear measurement is called the "D Height".
The measurements of those distances is from the bottom of the lowest part of the ball joint to the center of the mounting bolt on the front side of the lower control arm. Below are the specs from my 2006 manual.
The Z height specs are:
Base and F55: 46 mm (tolerance: 39.6-52.4 mm)
Z51: 45 mm (tolerance: 38.6-51.4 mm)
Z06: 41 mm (tolerance: 35.6-47.4 mm)
The D height specs are:
Base and F55: 122 mm (tolerance: 115.6-128.4 mm)
Z51: 121 mm (tolerance: 114.6-127.4 mm)
Z06: 109 mm (tolerance: 102.6-115.4 mm)
One turn of the height adjusting bolts is equal to 2mm (.079 inches) of trim height, so 3 turns equals just under 1/4 inch.