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Lowering clarification!!

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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 03:40 PM
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Default Lowering clarification!!

How much can u lower a c6 on stock bolts or do u need replacement bolts to do this?
Do all c6 wheels rub or just when lowered?

thanks
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 04:36 PM
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It depends upon where it was set at the factory. Generally the front comes down nicely on stock bolts but the rear needs lowering bolts. I got about 5 turns out of the front bolts and that brought it down 3/4". The rear was only 1 turn from full low so I had to go with lowering bolts in the rear. This seems to be about how most of them come from the factory, the front has room to lower, the rear is already almost set to full low. As far as rubbing issues, what? No rubbing what so ever at stock height or lowered with stock size tires. Never heard of any issues with that.
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 06:13 PM
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rubbing turning slow speed turning. I guess might be my wheels. I searched some post and alot of people are getting rubbing but unsure if thats stock height or lowered.

Do u need alignment each time u adjust them?
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 12:47 AM
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My front wheels sound like they contact the inner fender-well when doing full lock low-speed turns. I'm at stock height.

How do you lower the car using "bolts"? Sorry for the newb question but I'm a first-time new vette owner!
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 08:42 AM
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If the "rubbing" you're talking about sounds like the tires being dragged sideways across the pavemant it's normal during a very tight low speed turn. The tires are not rubbing part of the car but are "skipping" sideways across the ground, it happens on many performance cars with wide front tires. Because the inside and outside tires travel a different distance during a turn all cars have an ackerman (spelling?) angle where the front tires turn a different number of degrees from each other. However, at very tight turns the angle may not be perfect which is what causes the condition you're experiencing. It's also called bump steer.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by stevette17
Do u need alignment each time u adjust them?
Yes, you should align the car when you lower it. Changing any part of the suspension geometry changes the alignment.

A $125 professional (Not the Dealer) alignment is much cheaper than replacing tires.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by marc8090
If the "rubbing" you're talking about sounds like the tires being dragged sideways across the pavemant it's normal during a very tight low speed turn. The tires are not rubbing part of the car but are "skipping" sideways across the ground, it happens on many performance cars with wide front tires. Because the inside and outside tires travel a different distance during a turn all cars have an ackerman (spelling?) angle where the front tires turn a different number of degrees from each other. However, at very tight turns the angle may not be perfect which is what causes the condition you're experiencing. It's also called bump steer.
No, this is not bump steer.

also its not a condition that is casued by wide front tires.

Its very common n C6 vette becasue the rear diff fluid has not been changed and the rear diff is acting like a locker, pushing both rear tires at the same rate making your front want to skip becasue they are trying to turn the car shap.

could need an alinment, could need the rear fluid serviced. but in a parking lot you are not experinceing bump steer.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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I agree with Marc8090 as far as lowering goes. It is dependant on where it was set at the factory. Mine was set about 2 turns out on the rear and I didnt touch the front, which makes a level appearance. If you want to slam it, you will need to go with aftermarket bolts or coilover shocks. For me, lowered on stock bolts was enough. Scrap a little in the front going down my driveway and had to make extentions for my car ramps so I dont hit the front. It is super easy to do too. It will take you longer to get the stuff out than to actually do it.

I also agree with HalJensen with getting an alignment. If you just got the car I would atleast have it checked. Mine was within limits but I had them take some of the negative camber out of it as I drive it on the street more than a track so I am more worried about wear on the inside of the front tires than having the outside wheel flat during cornering. BTW, I saw no noticable (negative)difference in cornering by doing it. It matters on the track but not really on the street. Just my 2 cents.
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 05:02 PM
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Noticed conversation going on about issues with lowered cars dragging the airdam on ramps, driveway issues etc.

We make ramps especially designed for low cars - www.raceramps.com.

As well we can make custom ramp solutions, which can help with driveway issues.

Please note we are currently doing a group buy. Details can be seen at: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...group-buy.html
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JonnyL
Noticed conversation going on about issues with lowered cars dragging the airdam on ramps, driveway issues etc.

We make ramps especially designed for low cars - www.raceramps.com.

As well we can make custom ramp solutions, which can help with driveway issues.

Please note we are currently doing a group buy. Details can be seen at: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...group-buy.html
no this is not a plug for your product the problem in the thread is to do with wheels rubbing during low speed turning and if its same on stock or if lowered cars have more of it...
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Old Jul 13, 2010 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by stevette17
no this is not a plug for your product the problem in the thread is to do with wheels rubbing during low speed turning and if its same on stock or if lowered cars have more of it...
Well, get some Race Ramps anyway.
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by mittens
No, this is not bump steer.

also its not a condition that is casued by wide front tires.

Its very common n C6 vette becasue the rear diff fluid has not been changed and the rear diff is acting like a locker, pushing both rear tires at the same rate making your front want to skip becasue they are trying to turn the car shap.

could need an alinment, could need the rear fluid serviced. but in a parking lot you are not experinceing bump steer.
so u wont get bump steer at low parking lots speeds? im confused...
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by stevette17
so u wont get bump steer at low parking lots speeds? im confused...
Bump steer is just what it sounds like, you hit a bump and the suspension motion causes the wheel(s) to change direction a bit. It has nothing to do with parking lot activities (except maybe slalom and autocross )

Z//
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Excind
....If you want to slam it, you will need to go with aftermarket bolts or coilover shocks.....
Or, you can just cut some of the bushing off of the stock bolts.

That's what I did, and it's worked great for more than 30,000 miles.

Bob
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 11:28 PM
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I would STONGLY suggest a 4-way alignment...both front and rear...it takes away all the darting, improves tire wear (if they don't have wear patterns already), and makes the car a joy to drive again...
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 05:28 AM
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okwill do... i may raise the car abit first..
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 02:08 PM
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Wanted to add that Anthony @ LGM posted in another thread that lowering more than 20mm or ~3/4 inch starts to disrupt the suspension geometry.
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Old Aug 30, 2010 | 01:29 AM
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What is the stock ride height and where is it measured from? Also, when adjusting the stock bolts how much does each turn raise/lower the car?
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 05:10 AM
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anyone?
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Old Sep 2, 2010 | 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by stevette17
What is the stock ride height and where is it measured from? Also, when adjusting the stock bolts how much does each turn raise/lower the car?
Well.....here's info from the Service Manual. Most people set the ride height according to how they like the car to look, but if you really want to adjust it to factory specs, here ya go!!:
The front ride height measurement is called the "Z Height", and the rear measurement is called the "D Height".

The measurements of those distances is from the bottom of the lowest part of the ball joint to the center of the mounting bolt on the front side of the lower control arm. Below are the specs from my 2006 manual.

The Z height specs are:

Base and F55: 46 mm (tolerance: 39.6-52.4 mm)
Z51: 45 mm (tolerance: 38.6-51.4 mm)
Z06: 41 mm (tolerance: 35.6-47.4 mm)

The D height specs are:

Base and F55: 122 mm (tolerance: 115.6-128.4 mm)
Z51: 121 mm (tolerance: 114.6-127.4 mm)
Z06: 109 mm (tolerance: 102.6-115.4 mm)
One turn of the height adjusting bolts is equal to 2mm (.079 inches) of trim height, so 3 turns equals just under 1/4 inch.

Bob
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