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From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
Replacing Drivers side axle seal
I seem to chasing down some irritating problems lately.
My 08 Vert A6 drivers side axle seal started leaking and is now getting the booty dirty/oily (rear booty not the CV booty). It's not leaking much but is leaking enough to go ahead and replace.
I usually like to turn my own wrenches and was wanting to know if it's worth the time spent. Book calls for around 3 hours. My usual Mechanic says he'll do the job for $190.00 plus parts and supplies.
I am usually a good judge of what I can do vs paying for it.
What's involved and how difficult of a job is it or should I just pay the man and kick back and relax?
hey RL, it's not too bad a job. remove the wheel and brake caliper and rotor. disconnect the upper control arm, and remove the cv shaft axle nut. slide the axle out of the hub, then remove the axle from the diff. should pop out with a little shove between the diff and cv joint. then pop out the seal, and replace. as much as you have done on these cars, this should be no problem for you............
From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
That sounds a lot easier than I was envisioning. I was thing old days and going into the differential and removing "C" clips and such.
Any or much loss of diff fluid? No altering of the alignment?
Any reason to do both sides while I'm at it?
Thanks for the input.
Originally Posted by cranky
hey RL, it's not too bad a job. remove the wheel and brake caliper and rotor. disconnect the upper control arm, and remove the cv shaft axle nut. slide the axle out of the hub, then remove the axle from the diff. should pop out with a little shove between the diff and cv joint. then pop out the seal, and replace. as much as you have done on these cars, this should be no problem for you............
That sounds a lot easier than I was envisioning. I was thing old days and going into the differential and removing "C" clips and such.
Any or much loss of diff fluid? No altering of the alignment?
Any reason to do both sides while I'm at it?
Thanks for the input.
My problem was popping out the seal that was leaking, so I took it to the dealer. It's covered under the 100k warranty, if you want to go that direction.
I've since bought the service manual set. The procedure there is to drain the fluid and remove the side cover to pop out the seal from the interior. The manual shows a seal installation tool, but it doesn't seem anymore necessary than when installing a wheel bearing seal. It also says to replace the O-ring on the cover. I bought 2 qts. of the GM fluid that supposedly is specifically formulated for them. It's sitting on my shelf waiting for the next time.
BTW, I've had my axles out of the differential a couple of times and never removed the axle nut. A carefully placed prybar will do the trick.
The 3 hours is probably right with the car on a lift, but 4 if the first time and in your garage on jackstands. Add time for old age as necessary.
From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
Yeah the problems you can run into Vs paying the man which the 190.00 looks like a very reasonable labor rate.
Funny the old age factor is a factor these days as well. At 50 I find myself aching for a few days after being in a position that I haven't been in for a while.
I'll have to peek up in there tomorrow and see if I want to do this or not.
Originally Posted by HOXXOH
My problem was popping out the seal that was leaking, so I took it to the dealer. It's covered under the 100k warranty, if you want to go that direction.
I've since bought the service manual set. The procedure there is to drain the fluid and remove the side cover to pop out the seal from the interior. The manual shows a seal installation tool, but it doesn't seem anymore necessary than when installing a wheel bearing seal. It also says to replace the O-ring on the cover. I bought 2 qts. of the GM fluid that supposedly is specifically formulated for them. It's sitting on my shelf waiting for the next time.
BTW, I've had my axles out of the differential a couple of times and never removed the axle nut. A carefully placed prybar will do the trick.
The 3 hours is probably right with the car on a lift, but 4 if the first time and in your garage on jackstands. Add time for old age as necessary.
Yeah the problems you can run into Vs paying the man which the 190.00 looks like a very reasonable labor rate.
Funny the old age factor is a factor these days as well. At 50 I find myself aching for a few days after being in a position that I haven't been in for a while.
I'll have to peek up in there tomorrow and see if I want to do this or not.
It doesn't get easier at 68 either, but you gotta move it or lose it.
PM me a number and I'll fax you the shop manual pages.
From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
Originally Posted by HOXXOH
It doesn't get easier at 68 either, but you gotta move it or lose it.
PM me a number and I'll fax you the shop manual pages.
I got the service manuals on disk and just been lazy the past night or so to look them up. I appreciate the offer though. I primarily wanted to get experience input as well.
I looked up under the car a little while ago and it didn't seem daunting. The 99 degree weather may play a part though...
I called the dealer to get a seal and they told me 2 weeks to get one in. Do you know if it's a dealer item only or if NAPA or someone like that may carry the seal? I put a WTB in the FS section for a vendor so maybe one of them will come through.
I got the service manuals on disk and just been lazy the past night or so to look them up. I appreciate the offer though. I primarily wanted to get experience input as well.
I looked up under the car a little while ago and it didn't seem daunting. The 99 degree weather may play a part though...
I called the dealer to get a seal and they told me 2 weeks to get one in. Do you know if it's a dealer item only or if NAPA or someone like that may carry the seal? I put a WTB in the FS section for a vendor so maybe one of them will come through.
I'd call another dealer. Sounds like the first one didn't want you to go someplace else, so never checked anyone else's stock.
From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
Originally Posted by cranky
hey RL, it's not too bad a job. remove the wheel and brake caliper and rotor. disconnect the upper control arm, and remove the cv shaft axle nut. slide the axle out of the hub, then remove the axle from the diff. should pop out with a little shove between the diff and cv joint. then pop out the seal, and replace. as much as you have done on these cars, this should be no problem for you............
How much fuild did you lose doing it this way so I'll know how much to buy?
How much fuild did you lose doing it this way so I'll know how much to buy?
In case he doesn't respond, I had my axles out of the differential 4-5 times and never lost a drop. If you can get the seal out without removing the side cover, you wont need any fluid. Otherwise 2 quarts and a new O-ring.
If you trust your dealer, it's under warranty till 100K.
From: Pensacola Florida GO GATORS!!! www.rlsebring.com www.c6c7vette.com
St. Jude Donor '17
Originally Posted by HOXXOH
In case he doesn't respond, I had my axles out of the differential 4-5 times and never lost a drop. If you can get the seal out without removing the side cover, you wont need any fluid. Otherwise 2 quarts and a new O-ring.
If you trust your dealer, it's under warranty till 100K.
Alright! I'll try it without removing the side cover.
This is one of my rebuild projects so I'm warranty blocked or it would be at the dealership. They have a really good corvette mechanic.
hey RL, it's not too bad a job. remove the wheel and brake caliper and rotor. disconnect the upper control arm, and remove the cv shaft axle nut. slide the axle out of the hub, then remove the axle from the diff. should pop out with a little shove between the diff and cv joint. then pop out the seal, and replace. as much as you have done on these cars, this should be no problem for you............
Is this essentially the same process for an '05 manual vette (f55)? ... Is there no need for a spring compressing tool or other special tooling?
My mechanic seems to think there is, and I see this post mentions it as one of the steps: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ny-others.html
I'm imagining getting to the output shaft seal on my '05's diff would be nearly identical to this video on the c5: