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If you remove the four bolts holding the upper control arm during the replacement of the front shocks, be aware that the factory sometimes places two washers (not just one) behind each bolt. They do this on a limited number of cars to help get the normal alignment system more in center. I didn't know this and found I had six washers on the right front side. I was told that the two extra washers are most often placed behind the front two bolts, although they have been seen behind the back two bolts. Now I have get the car realigned to see if I guessed right. Hope this helps.
Other posts indicated this was the best/only way to get the shock out. After installing the front shocks, I used another method on the rear. I don't know if it will work on the front where the fit is much tighter.
I looped a zip tie through one of the shock's bolt holes. Then used a longer zip tie looped around the bottom of the shock and thru the first zip tie. With some effort you can compress the shock and cinched the longer zip tie to hold the shock in its compressed position. This made removal on the rear shocks very easy. You can release the zip tie using a small screw driver on the back side and reuse it. I used an AC duct type zip tie.
I will try this on the front shocks the next time. I would like to know if this would eliminate the need of disconecting the upper control arm.
Thanks for the input. The picture shows the strap technique applied to the rear shocks. I don't know how to get to the original post. Did this work on the front shocks?