, I will try for today though just not sure I can get it done in time. Shipping has already gone.
Plug Wires
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 27,178
Likes: 86
From: Short Hills, NJ
Generally speaking, plug wires only come apart like that when the person removing them doesn't know what they're doing, that goes for any brand of plug wire. Though yes, some are stronger than others.
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,470
Likes: 2
From: Portland OR
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
I'll agree to some of that but you should be able to swap them without breaking one.
A paper clip is stronger than the Taylor terminal and the double crimp system of the MSD allows for abuse. This is one of the main reasons they stand up to abuse where other don't. The boot has nothing to do with holding the wire together.
You can grab my wire the wrong way and it wont break on you. Lets face it these engines are not the easiest to work on as far as access to the back cylinders so your not going to get the ideal grip on a wire every time and its nice to know that your wire wont let you down just because you abused it a little.
A paper clip is stronger than the Taylor terminal and the double crimp system of the MSD allows for abuse. This is one of the main reasons they stand up to abuse where other don't. The boot has nothing to do with holding the wire together.
You can grab my wire the wrong way and it wont break on you. Lets face it these engines are not the easiest to work on as far as access to the back cylinders so your not going to get the ideal grip on a wire every time and its nice to know that your wire wont let you down just because you abused it a little.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 338
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix (formerly Ontario Canada) AZ
2007 Tahoe 5.3L
2009 Avanlanche 5.3L
What wires would I need, or would I order more of the same for the LS7?
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,470
Likes: 2
From: Portland OR
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
OK got them out they will be there Friday.
The truck wires are longer and are $60 instead of $58 but still the best deal. The online store has them listed as chevy/gmc truck 4.8,5.3,6.0
http://www.mcssl.com/store/cc-perfor...583e71c071b23f
The truck wires are longer and are $60 instead of $58 but still the best deal. The online store has them listed as chevy/gmc truck 4.8,5.3,6.0
http://www.mcssl.com/store/cc-perfor...583e71c071b23f
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,619
Likes: 4
From: Houston TX
I ordered the MSDs and am getting voltage issues...
I found this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by martypaulk View Post
I don't understand why the MSD wires might cause RFI issues. But if that is the case, is there any type of shielding sleeve that the aftermarket offers that would eliminate this as a possible cause???
Voltage regulation on the C6 is done in a somewhat unique way. Instead of a conventional voltage regulator, the ECM controls the alternator field current directly via pulse code modulation. In other words, it is a high speed switching regulator. Now switching regulators are very efficient, but they both generate RFI and are susceptible to it. Induced spikes at the wrong time can confuse the control logic circuits into thinking the voltage is either too high or too low and reacting incorrectly.
Besides the regulator circuit itself, the only other source of serious RFI in the car is the ignition system. OEM plugs and wires are designed to suppress ignition caused RFI. But if for some reason you change away from the OEM setup, you can cause severe RFI issues that may be confusing the voltage regulator.
If it were my car, one of the first things I'd try is to put the OEM plug wires back on it. Rerouting wires and adding shielding might work. But shielding for RFI is a tricky business in an automobile. In some cases adding shielding can make things worse. Very minor changes are capable of making things either much better or much worse, and it is difficult to know in any particular case until you try it. It is better to suppress the RFI at the source. That's pretty foolproof, and is what the stock wires do.
If you are concerned about burning the OEM wires due to the heat of the headers, there are insulating socks you can buy for the plug wires that will protect them from the heat.
Let me add here for those who might fall prey to advertising that the OEM wires are entirely adequate in our cars. Changing to "performance" wires won't actually gain you any performance, just potential problems.
I am wondering if going back to my old stock wires may be ok. I did get them off without damaging them...
I found this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by martypaulk View Post
I don't understand why the MSD wires might cause RFI issues. But if that is the case, is there any type of shielding sleeve that the aftermarket offers that would eliminate this as a possible cause???
Voltage regulation on the C6 is done in a somewhat unique way. Instead of a conventional voltage regulator, the ECM controls the alternator field current directly via pulse code modulation. In other words, it is a high speed switching regulator. Now switching regulators are very efficient, but they both generate RFI and are susceptible to it. Induced spikes at the wrong time can confuse the control logic circuits into thinking the voltage is either too high or too low and reacting incorrectly.
Besides the regulator circuit itself, the only other source of serious RFI in the car is the ignition system. OEM plugs and wires are designed to suppress ignition caused RFI. But if for some reason you change away from the OEM setup, you can cause severe RFI issues that may be confusing the voltage regulator.
If it were my car, one of the first things I'd try is to put the OEM plug wires back on it. Rerouting wires and adding shielding might work. But shielding for RFI is a tricky business in an automobile. In some cases adding shielding can make things worse. Very minor changes are capable of making things either much better or much worse, and it is difficult to know in any particular case until you try it. It is better to suppress the RFI at the source. That's pretty foolproof, and is what the stock wires do.
If you are concerned about burning the OEM wires due to the heat of the headers, there are insulating socks you can buy for the plug wires that will protect them from the heat.
Let me add here for those who might fall prey to advertising that the OEM wires are entirely adequate in our cars. Changing to "performance" wires won't actually gain you any performance, just potential problems.
I am wondering if going back to my old stock wires may be ok. I did get them off without damaging them...
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,619
Likes: 4
From: Houston TX
It seems as though my car keeps fluctuating voltage around espeically after a start. When I have been on the freeway it will come down to about 13.8 volts. When I start it it jumps from anywhere between 12.8 and 14.1 and it takes increments of 0.5 volts...
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,470
Likes: 2
From: Portland OR
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
I ordered the MSDs and am getting voltage issues...
I found this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by martypaulk View Post
I don't understand why the MSD wires might cause RFI issues. But if that is the case, is there any type of shielding sleeve that the aftermarket offers that would eliminate this as a possible cause???
Voltage regulation on the C6 is done in a somewhat unique way. Instead of a conventional voltage regulator, the ECM controls the alternator field current directly via pulse code modulation. In other words, it is a high speed switching regulator. Now switching regulators are very efficient, but they both generate RFI and are susceptible to it. Induced spikes at the wrong time can confuse the control logic circuits into thinking the voltage is either too high or too low and reacting incorrectly.
Besides the regulator circuit itself, the only other source of serious RFI in the car is the ignition system. OEM plugs and wires are designed to suppress ignition caused RFI. But if for some reason you change away from the OEM setup, you can cause severe RFI issues that may be confusing the voltage regulator.
If it were my car, one of the first things I'd try is to put the OEM plug wires back on it. Rerouting wires and adding shielding might work. But shielding for RFI is a tricky business in an automobile. In some cases adding shielding can make things worse. Very minor changes are capable of making things either much better or much worse, and it is difficult to know in any particular case until you try it. It is better to suppress the RFI at the source. That's pretty foolproof, and is what the stock wires do.
If you are concerned about burning the OEM wires due to the heat of the headers, there are insulating socks you can buy for the plug wires that will protect them from the heat.
Let me add here for those who might fall prey to advertising that the OEM wires are entirely adequate in our cars. Changing to "performance" wires won't actually gain you any performance, just potential problems.
I am wondering if going back to my old stock wires may be ok. I did get them off without damaging them...
I found this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by martypaulk View Post
I don't understand why the MSD wires might cause RFI issues. But if that is the case, is there any type of shielding sleeve that the aftermarket offers that would eliminate this as a possible cause???
Voltage regulation on the C6 is done in a somewhat unique way. Instead of a conventional voltage regulator, the ECM controls the alternator field current directly via pulse code modulation. In other words, it is a high speed switching regulator. Now switching regulators are very efficient, but they both generate RFI and are susceptible to it. Induced spikes at the wrong time can confuse the control logic circuits into thinking the voltage is either too high or too low and reacting incorrectly.
Besides the regulator circuit itself, the only other source of serious RFI in the car is the ignition system. OEM plugs and wires are designed to suppress ignition caused RFI. But if for some reason you change away from the OEM setup, you can cause severe RFI issues that may be confusing the voltage regulator.
If it were my car, one of the first things I'd try is to put the OEM plug wires back on it. Rerouting wires and adding shielding might work. But shielding for RFI is a tricky business in an automobile. In some cases adding shielding can make things worse. Very minor changes are capable of making things either much better or much worse, and it is difficult to know in any particular case until you try it. It is better to suppress the RFI at the source. That's pretty foolproof, and is what the stock wires do.
If you are concerned about burning the OEM wires due to the heat of the headers, there are insulating socks you can buy for the plug wires that will protect them from the heat.
Let me add here for those who might fall prey to advertising that the OEM wires are entirely adequate in our cars. Changing to "performance" wires won't actually gain you any performance, just potential problems.
I am wondering if going back to my old stock wires may be ok. I did get them off without damaging them...
Total BS. Its a simple wire and thats it. MSD has some of the best EMI supression of any plug wire made, thousands of users have no issue at all but yet 1 out of 1000 people will claim a spark plug wire is the culprit for an issue they are having.
Last edited by 99blancoss; Jan 22, 2011 at 09:20 AM.
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Moderator emeritus
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 18,599
Likes: 3,951
From: Jacksonville Florida BWO Dayton, Cincinnati, Bloomsbury NJ, Cincinnati
2015 C7 of the Year Finalist
Did you change plugs too? Like maybe NGK TR6's?
Elmer
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
Just another idea for all you DIY's. I've always make my own plug wires and use all MSD components. You can buy raw bulk wire and component from many source. Its very simple to make up, ensuring it is done correctly and save you a ton all at the same time. And before I install the wires, I put a bead of high temperature RTV silicone on the bout joints, smooth it out before it vulcanize to seal out moisture. A simple trick I've learned from my off road days.
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,470
Likes: 2
From: Portland OR
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
^^ Yep and we've taken car of that. Our wires are guaranteed for life and we use di-electric grease on the joints to insulate. It would cost you a lot more to make your own than buy a set from us. You can buy the universal set for like $120 and make your own as well. Ours cost $58 and are professionally made and as stated guaranteed for life.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 34
^^ Yep and we've taken car of that. Our wires are guaranteed for life and we use di-electric grease on the joints to insulate. It would cost you a lot more to make your own than buy a set from us. You can buy the universal set for like $120 and make your own as well. Ours cost $58 and are professionally made and as stated guaranteed for life.
Again, no offense Chris. Just ideas to share!
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,470
Likes: 2
From: Portland OR
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
LOL, sorry no offense taken... just letting people know about our wires ... maybe some times a little to much... I can be over zealous at times... LOL
Jacobs got bought out unfortunately and we cant get some if their stuff anymore like their ceramic boots... I think Accel or who ever their parent company is bought them.. Which is a bummer to be honest. I would love to offer a ceramic boot on my MSD's for the hi heat FI guys.
Jacobs got bought out unfortunately and we cant get some if their stuff anymore like their ceramic boots... I think Accel or who ever their parent company is bought them.. Which is a bummer to be honest. I would love to offer a ceramic boot on my MSD's for the hi heat FI guys.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,619
Likes: 4
From: Houston TX
One f my MSD boots may have come undone. How can I go about having it relpaced. I am still going to test it out with an Amp Meter and see what the resistance is. Electricity has to go somwhere and if it isn't going down, I bet it's shooting across over to the heat shield...
Former Vendor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,470
Likes: 2
From: Portland OR
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12
All you need to do is contact me and I send out a new wire. Not sure how the boot got compromised but its real easy to handle. I also told you you dont need to reuse the heat shields. I'd like you to send me the wire as well, it will cost .60 to send it in an envelope, I'll re-imburse you for it.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,619
Likes: 4
From: Houston TX
GOT IT WORKING!!! Thanks for the help though! Needle nose pliers did the tric! It was a loose contact! If I have any future problems will let you know! BTW I removed the heat shields! I hope these guys don't get fried.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 20,933
Likes: 905
From: salem OR
LOL, sorry no offense taken... just letting people know about our wires ... maybe some times a little to much... I can be over zealous at times... LOL
Jacobs got bought out unfortunately and we cant get some if their stuff anymore like their ceramic boots... I think Accel or who ever their parent company is bought them.. Which is a bummer to be honest. I would love to offer a ceramic boot on my MSD's for the hi heat FI guys.
Jacobs got bought out unfortunately and we cant get some if their stuff anymore like their ceramic boots... I think Accel or who ever their parent company is bought them.. Which is a bummer to be honest. I would love to offer a ceramic boot on my MSD's for the hi heat FI guys.
Jacobs was the best wires and ignition stuff. Sad to see them bought out to die!
