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I hope someone can help me with this... I installed an MGW shifter a year back, and I love it. I followed the directions and installed correctly and with no issues. I been having problems with the bolts that hold the shifter loosen up every so often. I tried thread lock but it doesnt seem to work. The metal gets very hot I assume and therefore renders the lock-tite useless. It problably warms up and turns into a liquid again and the bolts can freely move. I screwed them in correctly and did not cross thread. But there was this one instance as I was driving where all 4 bolts were almost completely backed out and I threw a hard 1st to 2nd shift and the shifter slid off the aluminum piece where it rests and I kinda messed up the threads on it. I got the car home safely despite the shfiter was very loose and I had a hard time getting it into some of the gears. I opened it up home and saw the damage and I was a bit pissed but really not much I can do. So I took it apart and re-sealed the gasket and used a better threadlock on the bolts and got them to screw back in. The shifter was tight again. The other day I felt it starting to become loose again so i just opened it up to check on it and behold almost all of the holes that the shifter screws into are damaged. I didnt cross thread them when I first installed the shifter. I am assuming as the bolts become loose and hard shifts from me doesnt do well to that soft piece of aluminum that GM uses (see pics) to hold the shifter in place. My question is does anyone know of a place who sells stronger pieces? I am also assuming that this piece is changeble since its bolted in with torx bolts etc. Before I order a new one from GM I was wondering if any one sells a better quality piece. Because if I put another aluminum mount in there the same thing is only going to happen.
Thanks for any help!
I also considered the possibility of re-tapping the holes, but as I said its still an soft aluminum piece which isnt made for hard shifts.
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
I blew up your photos and the threads are GONE.
Options are:
1. Get a new/used shifter box. They go up for sale on the forum occasionally.
2. Remove, drill, & retap to next larger size.
3. Helicoil.
If you never heard of these, just Google it. They are strong and work well to replace damaged original threads without having to use a different size bolt.
What are you using to seal the shifter to the box? RTV? Use the gaskets that come with the shifter.
My B&M shifter has a hard nylon gasket. Its not critical to seal it
I know, and I may have overtightened them. With alum all you have to do is slightly make it tighter than it should be and that can start the chain of damage events. i.e weakening all the threads
Options are:
1. Get a new/used shifter box. They go up for sale on the forum occasionally.
2. Remove, drill, & retap to next larger size.
3. Helicoil.
Why do people get rid of them?
I think I will go and re-tap the exsiting piece. My next door neighbor happens to be a machinist so I will take it out and let him do it for me. Thanks for info
If you never heard of these, just Google it. They are strong and work well to replace damaged original threads without having to use a different size bolt.
Helicoil will do the trick?
[quote]What are you using to seal the shifter to the box? RTV? Use the gaskets that come with the shifter.[quote]
I am using the rubber gasket that came with the shifter and adhering it with 3M weatherstrip and gasket adhesive.
Helicoil is often made of stainless. If you want to have something more dependable, use Clean-sert. It is an insert user installed after using the specified drill and tape on the damaged hole. What it does is converting a previous soft threaded to steel threaded hole. And that helps to prevent thread stretching with repeated R & R.
I went to the local chevy dealer just now, and it turns out that part comes complete with the shifter (stock) and all for $243.00
I scanned and attached a document of the diagram with a highlight to the part. If I buy a new piece can I use Helicoil or Clean-sert on the new part as well? I am assuming that I can.
Don't waste money on a new box...especially if you are just going to drill it out and replace the threads. If you do that you have gained nothing over drilling out your existing box and replacing threads.
Heli-coils work great and for this low stress application should be fine if done properly. Have your machinist friend help you out. Since heli-coil is a wound spring it can get damaged if over torqued or installed incorrectly. There is another solution that is a bit more durable. See this site... http://www.timesert.com/ Either one should work fine, but if you are really worried or tend to over tighten, then the timesert may be your solution.
You might want to change the shifter bushings while you are at it, yours look pretty worn. Changing those worn bushings made a huge difference in my car.
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
Originally Posted by Joe_G
You might want to change the shifter bushings while you are at it, yours look pretty worn. Changing those worn bushings made a huge difference in my car.