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I have had my 2005 C6 for about 10,000 miles now and have started to notice a little shimmy (the typical feel of warped rotors) when I am on the brakes. I have Baer eradispeed plus 2's that came on the car when I got it. I don't track my car but I do a little "spirited driving" and often put my brakes through their paces.
Has anyone else had trouble with warping of these rotors? If so what did you replace them with? Also, would anyone suggest getting them turned as an option? Or, would this not be such a good idea since they are drilled and slotted?
I don't think turning isn't an option, they do sell replacement rotors but I would be looking at the calipers to make sure they are functioning properly and do a complete inspection of things before replacing them. They are a very stout rotor, for them to get warped something could be up elsewhere in the system.
I had the Eradispeeds on my 2005 for many thousands of miles, and my brother-in-law now has the car and has put many more miles on it - no problems at all with the rotors!!
They are 2-piece rotors, so even less likely to warp than a 1-piece rotor.
You've probably got an uneven builup of pad material, or possibly pad imprinting if you ever left your foot on the brake pedal at a stoplight after a spirited drive that heated the brakes up.
Don't turn them, rather scour them with garnet paper as described in the StopTech document. Or they also mention putting on an aggressive track pad and they will scour off old pad buildup, then reinstall your street pads.
bob beat me to it. it's probably pad deposit on rotors.
Read Stoptech's, technical info, and then technical white papers.
"My car judders when I apply the brakes, what can I do to fix it?
In order to understand the likely cause of the judder, please see the FAQ relating to un-even pad deposition. OK, now that you hopefully better understand why the steering wheel is shaking out of your hand, what can be done to cure it? Turning the rotors will take care of it, but you will be shortening the life of the rotor and decreasing its ability to absorb and control heat, as there will be less mass in the rotor after turning. Also, turning a 2-piece rotor that uses floating attachment hardware between the rotor and hat can be tricky. We have had very good success running an aggressive track pad at lower temperatures on the street in order to scrub off the rotor surface. We have found the Hawk Blue 9012 race pad to be very effective. At lower temperatures it is very ABRASIVE, not becoming ADHERENT until it reaches it's optimal operating temperature. If it is used with a few firm stops at a time, not getting too hot (we want to remove material, not transfer more), it will often remove the source of vibration. A WARNING: Do not leave an abrasive pad in the caliper longer than necessary to solve the problem. We have had rotors destroyed in under a week by leaving the abrasive track pads in on the street. "