Air intake
Last edited by Les Goldberg; Aug 13, 2010 at 02:46 PM. Reason: spelling and grammer
I recommend the stock unit. It works well and looks factory (imagine that).
I did install a Vette-Air scoop to get aditional cooler outside air through the grille to the intake, but it requires, in my opinion, a diffuser to keep the intake air turbulence under control. I made my diffuser from a piece of 1/8" Plexiglas, 18" long X 3.5" wide, sealed to the bumper beam with a piece of slit vacuum hose and the ends of the back edge of the diffuser contoured to fit the shroud with around 1/4"-3/8" clearance, for the 4" on each end. The diffuser is mounted to the top of the Vette-Air scoop utilizing the rear two bolts. It's purpose is to keep the incoming rush of air from directly hitting the paper filter. I originally tried the Attack Blue filter in conjunction with the Vette-Air, and had all kinds of problems with air turbulence across the MAF, setting codes and turning on the CEL. I sold the Attack Blue filter.
I did install a Vette-Air scoop to get aditional cooler outside air through the grille to the intake, but it requires, in my opinion, a diffuser to keep the intake air turbulence under control. I made my diffuser from a piece of 1/8" Plexiglas, 18" long X 3.5" wide, sealed to the bumper beam with a piece of slit vacuum hose and the ends of the back edge of the diffuser contoured to fit the shroud with around 1/4"-3/8" clearance, for the 4" on each end. The diffuser is mounted to the top of the Vette-Air scoop utilizing the rear two bolts. It's purpose is to keep the incoming rush of air from directly hitting the paper filter. I originally tried the Attack Blue filter in conjunction with the Vette-Air, and had all kinds of problems with air turbulence across the MAF, setting codes and turning on the CEL. I sold the Attack Blue filter.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
another forum member did a temp test and found that air temps were close to outside air with the stock intake!
just not much improvement to be had.





For $450 with the Vararam, gains are about .25 sec and 3 mph, however the filtration suffers.
Not much else has real world track testing, but many butt dyno opinions.
MPG is mostly related to the right foot, not the air intake.
For $450 with the Vararam, gains are about .25 sec and 3 mph, however the filtration suffers.
Not much else has real world track testing, but many butt dyno opinions.
MPG is mostly related to the right foot, not the air intake.





Hardware consists of two 5" long 1/4-20 pieces of allthread, eight 1/4-20 nuts, and four 1/4 x 1 fender washers.
Put 4 nuts on each allthread near the center and then a washer on each side. Spread the shroud open and insert one end of the allthread in the shroud hole and the other end in the metal frame hole where the shroud was attached. Do that on the other side too. Then start running the nuts away from each other (2 one way & 2 the other) to spread the shroud open to about a 3" space. Then tighten the pairs of nuts against each other (aka jam nut) to hold the position. There will will be more than enough tension to hold the washers in place and not have any fear of the whole part falling out.
You can install this in 10 minutes and return it to stock in half that time.
I did this to a friend's LS2 at the track. He had made 2 back to back passes at 12.38 and was happy, as that was a PB. 15 minutes later after the shroud prop, he ran a 12.22 and then a 12.23. The trap speeds were 2 mph faster too. Ya shouda seen the smile then.
Hardware consists of two 5" long 1/4-20 pieces of allthread, eight 1/4-20 nuts, and four 1/4 x 1 fender washers.
Put 4 nuts on each allthread near the center and then a washer on each side. Spread the shroud open and insert one end of the allthread in the shroud hole and the other end in the metal frame hole where the shroud was attached. Do that on the other side too. Then start running the nuts away from each other (2 one way & 2 the other) to spread the shroud open to about a 3" space. Then tighten the pairs of nuts against each other (aka jam nut) to hold the position. There will will be more than enough tension to hold the washers in place and not have any fear of the whole part falling out.
You can install this in 10 minutes and return it to stock in half that time.
I did this to a friend's LS2 at the track. He had made 2 back to back passes at 12.38 and was happy, as that was a PB. 15 minutes later after the shroud prop, he ran a 12.22 and then a 12.23. The trap speeds were 2 mph faster too. Ya shouda seen the smile then.

Last edited by JoesC5; Aug 16, 2010 at 10:18 AM.





#PIP4319A: Corvette Lean DTCs P0171 P0174 - keywords 6.2 7.0 ECM engine fuel HO2S injector LS3 LS7 MAF MAP MIL o2 pressure sensor SES - (May 1, 2008)
Subject: Corvette Lean DTCs P0171 P0174
Models: 2007-2008 Chevrolet Corvette
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This PI was superseded to advise dealers of repair information. A loose close-out panel and holes in frame plate may disturb intake air flow. Please discard PIP4319.
Condition/Concern:
A dealer may encounter a customer concern of the SES light on with DTCs P0171 P0174 found.
If the air flow to the Air Intake/Air Cleaner Assembly is disturbed, DTCs P0171/P0174 may be induced.
Recommendation/Instructions:
DTCs P0171/P0174 may be caused by a gap between a body close out panel combined with some frame plate holes. The close-out panel gap and frame plate holes may cause an air flow disturbance to Air Intake/Air Cleaner Assembly (please see attached pictures for a better description).
This is a picture of a close-out panel with a good fit (item number 2), and the frame plate holes (item number 1) that need to be covered with a good adhesive type patch (sound deadener patch) or equivalent. Sound deadener patches can be obtained from Kent Automotive. Kent Automotive can be contacted at 1-888-YES-KENT (www.kent-automotive.com) to obtain Kent part number: P20617.
Clean the frame plate as necessary and install the patch so the holes (item number 1) are covered. No air can flow through these holes.
Evaluate the lean condition after the close-out panel gap has repaired, and frame plate holes have been covered.
Note: Any modifications to the Air Intake/Air Cleaner Assembly must be removed before attempting repairs for the lean condition.






The OP asked for air intake information in an attempt to gain knowledge before modifying his car and I gave him two options with my personal results. If you have had different experiences and documented results with air intake systems, I suggest you share them.

The OP asked for air intake information in an attempt to gain knowledge before modifying his car and I gave him two options with my personal results. If you have had different experiences and documented results with air intake systems, I suggest you share them.
Sorry, GM's engineering expertise trumps your "Buba" expertise. I suggest you do a search on this forum for "surging" and see what others have to say. Like you, I have some experience in real world MODs to a stock car. I haven't run my car at the drag strip, don't plan to. But, if I can't drive it to the drag strip without surging and setting codes, what have I achieved?
My post #5,
"I'm running the stock air intake with the factory paper filter on my Z06. You have basically the same intake on your Grand Sport. It feeds you plenty of air. When I need to replace the original paper filter, I will install the ZR1 paper filter, as it does flow more air then the filter used in the LS3/LS7.
I did install a Vette-Air scoop to get additional cooler outside air through the grille to the intake, but it requires, in my opinion, a diffuser to keep the intake air turbulence under control. I made my diffuser from a piece of 1/8" Plexiglas, 18" long X 3.5" wide, sealed to the bumper beam with a piece of slit vacuum hose and the ends of the back edge of the diffuser contoured to fit the shroud with around 1/4"-3/8" clearance, for the 4" on each end. The diffuser is mounted to the top of the Vette-Air scoop utilizing the rear two bolts. It's purpose is to keep the incoming rush of air from directly hitting the paper filter. I originally tried the Attack Blue filter in conjunction with the Vette-Air, and had all kinds of problems with air turbulence across the MAF, setting codes and turning on the CEL. I sold the Attack Blue filter."
Last edited by JoesC5; Aug 17, 2010 at 08:45 AM.













