Preperation for Supercharger
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis MO
Preperation for Supercharger
I am really close to getting a supercharger on the car, and I was wondering what kind of preparation I can make to ensure the power gets to the ground. I lost my Trans-Am to sinking the money under the hood and none under the rear end, and I would like to avoid that with the Vette. I know I will probably need a new clutch, but I want to make sure that I can get this done correctly before mounting the blower. For the record I am looking at Lingenfelter's package for the LS-2 (top mount). I am open to other blower suggestions, but it needs to be top mount. My real concern is what drive train and suspension components do I need to look into?
I have a 2007 Z-51, with Kooks 1-3/4 long tubes (no cats) x-pipe, and BB fusion exhaust.
I have a 2007 Z-51, with Kooks 1-3/4 long tubes (no cats) x-pipe, and BB fusion exhaust.
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 21,136
Likes: 212
From: Long Island New York
Question, why does it "need" to be a top mount?
The only thing I did to my "side" mount was purchase CCW wheels and mount Z06 sized tires on em dor extra traction. I think between 500-600rwhp the stock OEM C6 parts are strong enough to handle the power. That said, if you plan on drag racing the car, all bets are off. Launching a car with that much TQ with sticky DR's will eventually break stuff. Others will chime in with what they upgraded.
The only thing I did to my "side" mount was purchase CCW wheels and mount Z06 sized tires on em dor extra traction. I think between 500-600rwhp the stock OEM C6 parts are strong enough to handle the power. That said, if you plan on drag racing the car, all bets are off. Launching a car with that much TQ with sticky DR's will eventually break stuff. Others will chime in with what they upgraded.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis MO
Question, why does it "need" to be a top mount?
The only thing I did to my "side" mount was purchase CCW wheels and mount Z06 sized tires on em dor extra traction. I think between 500-600rwhp the stock OEM C6 parts are strong enough to handle the power. That said, if you plan on drag racing the car, all bets are off. Launching a car with that much TQ with sticky DR's will eventually break stuff. Others will chime in with what they upgraded.
The only thing I did to my "side" mount was purchase CCW wheels and mount Z06 sized tires on em dor extra traction. I think between 500-600rwhp the stock OEM C6 parts are strong enough to handle the power. That said, if you plan on drag racing the car, all bets are off. Launching a car with that much TQ with sticky DR's will eventually break stuff. Others will chime in with what they upgraded.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 6,420
Likes: 200
From: Wilkes-Barre Pa
So far in over 2 years I haven't had any failures.
The most common failure I've heard of is the differential output shafts. If one breaks on me I will probably just upgrade the entire diff to http://www.rpmtransmissions.com/differentials.html
The most common failure I've heard of is the differential output shafts. If one breaks on me I will probably just upgrade the entire diff to http://www.rpmtransmissions.com/differentials.html
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,014
Likes: 2
St. Jude Donor '09-'10
So far in over 2 years I haven't had any failures.
The most common failure I've heard of is the differential output shafts. If one breaks on me I will probably just upgrade the thanks,
PHentire diff to http://www.rpmtransmissions.com/differentials.html
The most common failure I've heard of is the differential output shafts. If one breaks on me I will probably just upgrade the thanks,
PHentire diff to http://www.rpmtransmissions.com/differentials.html
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '10
Though if one goes (which it did), I don't think I'd replace the whole diff just yet, unless I could get a quick hold on a Z06 3.42 pull out. Swapping those axles is WAAAAY easier than dropping the whole friggin' cradle.
First thing I did in preparation for my SC install was have all the TSB's done. Then changed all the drivetrain fluids. After that, I just started massing parts I could install myself. Then when I did all I could do, I dropped it off for the big dogs to take care of the rest.
One thing I will highly recommend right out of the gate is more cooling...especially if you've got your heart set on a top-mount. A dual-cooler DeWitts, or if you can swing it, the LG Supercool.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis MO
Thanks for all the input so far. I was expecting things like, wider tires, transmission parts, etc, which would get kind of pricey. I will definitely look into the cooling options you suggested, but can you tell me why? I assume it gets hotter under the hood, but how much more? what broke? What kind of problems did you start noticing?
Interesting that no one has mentioned any suspension parts, but that just speaks well of the Z-51 package I assume.
Thanks
Chad
Interesting that no one has mentioned any suspension parts, but that just speaks well of the Z-51 package I assume.
Thanks
Chad
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,259
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
St. Jude Donor '10
You'll want more cooling because the supercharger will add a lot of heat. Top-mounts especially, as the available intercooler on those systems aren't quite as efficient as a big 'ol honkin intercooler out front in the airstream as with a centrifugal or turbo system.
Also neglected to mention that a ported or high flow oil pump is also some good, cheap insurance.
As for other parts...if you're THAT worried about breaking stuff, you have two options; keep it stock or rebuild the whole car at once. Built diff/trans, billet axles, CF torque tube, forged shortblock, rebuilt/aftermarket heads, cooling, fuel, and oiling systems...all BEFORE you get the blower.
I twisted an axle...it might happen to you, it might not. FI opens up a whole other can of worms other than lack of traction. If breaking something, major or minor, is going to put you out and be a real problem...you're better off just keeping it stock or doing bolt-ons.
Since it seems you've already chosen the Lingenfelter system, I'd give 'em a call and ask them what they think.
Also neglected to mention that a ported or high flow oil pump is also some good, cheap insurance.
As for other parts...if you're THAT worried about breaking stuff, you have two options; keep it stock or rebuild the whole car at once. Built diff/trans, billet axles, CF torque tube, forged shortblock, rebuilt/aftermarket heads, cooling, fuel, and oiling systems...all BEFORE you get the blower.
I twisted an axle...it might happen to you, it might not. FI opens up a whole other can of worms other than lack of traction. If breaking something, major or minor, is going to put you out and be a real problem...you're better off just keeping it stock or doing bolt-ons.
Since it seems you've already chosen the Lingenfelter system, I'd give 'em a call and ask them what they think.
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Pro
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 719
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From: Poplar Bluff, MO
St. Jude Contributor
You'll find lots of information in the C6 Fi/Nitrous section http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-f...n-nitrous-123/. Lots of guys over there with some serious HP!