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I actually am having a problems with the MSD wires and the NGK TR6's on my LS2... just wondering if you could give me a hand. Each MSD wire reads between 28-30 ohms and my factory reds read at about 750-800 each. My problems is that when I put the MSD on the car with the Taylor boots I get a "service charging system" and it surges from 11.8 (idling) -14.2 (driving). I took the MSD wires off and the voltage stays about normal at idle (13.1-12.8) and normal while driving (14.2-14.5). I have a red top optima battery... Any Ideas? Any insight will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I actually am having a problems with the MSD wires and the NGK TR6's on my LS2... just wondering if you could give me a hand. Each MSD wire reads between 28-30 ohms and my factory reds read at about 750-800 each. My problems is that when I put the MSD on the car with the Taylor boots I get a "service charging system" and it surges from 11.8 (idling) -14.2 (driving). I took the MSD wires off and the voltage stays about normal at idle (13.1-12.8) and normal while driving (14.2-14.5). I have a red top optima battery... Any Ideas? Any insight will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Msd wires and TR-6's is all I've been running. Whats the deal with the "Taylor boots". Use just the MSD's with the stock heat sheilds.
Msd wires and TR-6's is all I've been running. Whats the deal with the "Taylor boots". Use just the MSD's with the stock heat sheilds.
well I am saving up to buy some Longtubes and the boots will protect the wires from the heat from the heaters. I dont get it! Why would it cause my volts to drop?
well I am saving up to buy some Longtubes and the boots will protect the wires from the heat from the heaters. I dont get it! Why would it cause my volts to drop?
I have MSD's with headers and stock heat sheild's is all you need.
They won't melt but I don't get super high temps. Some have talked about this same charging issue. I've never had the trouble.
Run a tr-6 search.
Are you sure your wires are snapped all the way on to the plug with the heat sox? Try without them to see if your problem goes away. I run MSD wires with my AR headers, I don't see the need for heat sox with them. I am running TR-5 plugs in my 06.
UPDATE:
Well I did a few things trynig to to see what the issue was related with:
- NGK TR6's that I installed in 11/09 w/MSD wires and boots = gave "service charging system" and volts would fluxuate between 11.8 (idling) - 14.2 (driving).
- NGKs with stock reds = would cause the voltage to be higher but would never be steady! Voltage would continue to fluxuate.
- NGK's with MSD's without the boots = Same issue, fluxuating voltage and "service charging system" would still come on.
- NGK's with MSD' and switched the coils around = Same
Soooo, since the battery is good and post are tight and no acid on them... and I removed the 12 Volt cable from the alternator to where it wouldnt be near the #1 coil or cable and I was still getting the message and the volts would fluxuate. I decided I am due for a new set up spark plugs anyways... lets change them. I had read to "NOT" gap TR6's... something to do with the electroid or something like that. Well I did some research and found out that they should be gapped around 0.35 with the TR6's. So $17.95 later and 8 TR6's gapped properly with the MSD wires and boots and my voltage only fluxuates from 13.1-13.7 (idling) and 13.8-14.2 (driving) no "Service Charging System" yet!
Thank God!
Now I just need to find out how to fix my rear hatch to open! lol
Please explain how spark plug gap affects charging system voltage. Sorry, I just don't get it
Hey... you and me both! I dont have a clue... All I can think of is that some spark plugs were producing a larger spark and some a smaller one... maybe that is the reason I was getting the fluxuating reading. I mean I took to the dealer and they couldnt come up with anything.
UPDATE:
Well I did a few things trynig to to see what the issue was related with:
- NGK TR6's that I installed in 11/09 w/MSD wires and boots = gave "service charging system" and volts would fluxuate between 11.8 (idling) - 14.2 (driving).
- NGKs with stock reds = would cause the voltage to be higher but would never be steady! Voltage would continue to fluxuate.
- NGK's with MSD's without the boots = Same issue, fluxuating voltage and "service charging system" would still come on.
- NGK's with MSD' and switched the coils around = Same
Soooo, since the battery is good and post are tight and no acid on them... and I removed the 12 Volt cable from the alternator to where it wouldnt be near the #1 coil or cable and I was still getting the message and the volts would fluxuate. I decided I am due for a new set up spark plugs anyways... lets change them. I had read to "NOT" gap TR6's... something to do with the electroid or something like that. Well I did some research and found out that they should be gapped around 0.35 with the TR6's. So $17.95 later and 8 TR6's gapped properly with the MSD wires and boots and my voltage only fluxuates from 13.1-13.7 (idling) and 13.8-14.2 (driving) no "Service Charging System" yet!
Thank God!
Now I just need to find out how to fix my rear hatch to open! lol
I didn't gap mine either. Just checked them. They seem to run fine with the MSD wires,
Silly question and a bit off topic, but why run TR6's in an LS2? Is it blown or turbo'd? Other than FI or a radical cam, I don't see a need to step your heat range down, just seems like it would eventually create a lot of deposits that would normally get burned off over time. Just thoughts from my random mind.
Silly question and a bit off topic, but why run TR6's in an LS2? Is it blown or turbo'd? Other than FI or a radical cam, I don't see a need to step your heat range down, just seems like it would eventually create a lot of deposits that would normally get burned off over time. Just thoughts from my random mind.
I first put them on because I was going to spray a 125 shot (wet) but never put the kit on. So I was told that the TR6's were idea for LS2's. So I left them on... Not sure if the original spark plugs would produce more power n/a or not.
tr6 is just a cooler heat range, doesn't hurt a thing but it could foul quicker. Most tuners I know will tell you to run the hottest one you can without having an issue.
"We have seen this problem twice now, and after a little digging we found that GM has a bulletin regarding the 0621 code and spark plugs. It simply states that if any spark plug other than AC Delco iridium plugs are installed this code may appear. The fix was to remove the NGK Tr55 or TR6's and replace with AC Delco factory plugs.
We did this, left the code active in the tune and the customer has had no issues since. The Pulse technology of the NGK plug or other aftermarket plugs must have an interference with the electric systems and cause the service light to come on.
Hope this helps, because we spent many hours trying to resolve this and it came down to a 20 minute plug change.
"We have seen this problem twice now, and after a little digging we found that GM has a bulletin regarding the 0621 code and spark plugs. It simply states that if any spark plug other than AC Delco iridium plugs are installed this code may appear. The fix was to remove the NGK Tr55 or TR6's and replace with AC Delco factory plugs.
We did this, left the code active in the tune and the customer has had no issues since. The Pulse technology of the NGK plug or other aftermarket plugs must have an interference with the electric systems and cause the service light to come on.
Hope this helps, because we spent many hours trying to resolve this and it came down to a 20 minute plug change.
Jeremy Preston "
Ya ok and you should only use GM wires as well.
MSD and NGK is one of the most popular and widely used combinations on the LS engines in the world. Whats next Ford telling you to only use Motorcraft? Or do they? LOL
One of the most widely respected members/vendor/mechanic/tuning guru on this board uses the NGK by the truck load with zero complaints. I've also seen someone try and say piston slap was rod knock from the wrong oil on here as well.. so ... take it for what its worth. If there was an issue it would be well know and widely publicized.
Last edited by 99blancoss; Sep 7, 2010 at 10:39 PM.
yeah that link pretty much tells you everything you have to do to have the "service charging system" removed, if the alternator is working properly and the battery is fine also. Good fine!
MSD and NGK is one of the most popular and widely used combinations on the LS engines in the world. Whats next Ford telling you to only use Motorcraft? Or do they? LOL
One of the most widely respected members/vendor/mechanic/tuning guru on this board uses the NGK by the truck load with zero complaints. I've also seen someone try and say piston slap was rod knock from the wrong oil on here as well.. so ... take it for what its worth. If there was an issue it would be well know and widely publicized.
Well to be honest I think its a combination of things... the alternator wire touching the #1 ignition wire... recommend to move it as on the picture of the other link. make sure that the wires are on correctly on the coils and on the plugs and that the wires are still within a good ohm reading. lastly to check your plugs as they be bad. Like I said... I had my TR6's since 10/09 or 11/09 and changed them yesterday... using my car as a daily driver so I guess the car was due the plugs. However... I installed a new set of NGK TR6's and issue is also fixed.