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First oil change questions????

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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 06:40 PM
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Default First oil change questions????

First, how difficult? I change my own oil in my H3 and my wife's Miata, the H3 is relatively difficult, so I have the know how. Also, I have low profile ramps, will my 07 be fine?
Royal Purple or Mobil 1? I use Mobil 1 religiously in both the H3 and the Miata. Wal-Mart has the RP at $8.50/qt., is it worth it?
Lastly, the filter, anything special there? Wrenches needed, etc.
P.S. searched posts but no answers to my questions, so don't pund me, I'm sure this has been asked b4
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 06:55 PM
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Oil change is pretty simple honestly.

Which Oil? you will get many opinions here. I use Valvoline full Synthetic

Filter? same thing, many opinions..I use Purolator PureONE as they rate very well and are easy to find at my local parts store.

Let us know how it went.



John
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 06:59 PM
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I wouldn't bother with the Royal Purple myself. I don't know that it's any better than the Mobile One, which is usually on sale for considerably less. I usually pick up the Mobil One filter as well because the sale price is usually a package deal (oil and filter).

San
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by oldmansan
I wouldn't bother with the Royal Purple myself. I don't know that it's any better than the Mobile One, which is usually on sale for considerably less. I usually pick up the Mobil One filter as well because the sale price is usually a package deal (oil and filter).

San
I kind of figured. I mean what do you get for an extra $3.50/quart anyway? Could it be so much better that M1? Can you go say 20k miles before a change or something? It may be worth it for that, but I wouldn't feel comfortable going 20k without changing the oil anyway!
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by schmegeggie
I kind of figured. I mean what do you get for an extra $3.50/quart anyway? Could it be so much better that M1? Can you go say 20k miles before a change or something? It may be worth it for that, but I wouldn't feel comfortable going 20k without changing the oil anyway!
I use Mobil One in the Vette, Redline in the WRX, Castrol or Mobil One synthetic in the Tundra and dino oil in my ZX10R (still breaking it in). I have no problems with any of the oil above. I'd use Redline or Amsoil over the Royal Purple.

San
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 07:46 PM
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believe it or not, this is one of those gray areas that can void your warranty and really depends on how hard nosed GM would be if you have an engine failure issue in the future.

if you change your oil v. the dealer or a certified shop, you can void the warranty. this can be fought, but be prepared to fight if you have an engine failure issue. one reason is they want a 3rd party document saying how many miles were on it when it was done, so they can confirm you didn't go 10K miles between changes.

if you stray from the GM standard and use Royal Purple, that can be deemed as a reason to void.

Again, is this something you want to fight if something happens? Or just pay the dealer a few bucks on the changes now to build a good working relationship should something actually happen.

if your warranty isn't a concern or you have already voided it on the engine with mods, then go for it, just wanted to get this out there in case you were unaware I had a big argument with FoMoCo about this when I found out changing my own oil would be an issue - I did it anyway because I do it right and don't impact gun install my drain plug, but knew up front I would have to fight if I had an issue. Fortunately I didn't, YMMV.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by schmegeggie
First, how difficult? I change my own oil in my H3 and my wife's Miata, the H3 is relatively difficult, so I have the know how. Also, I have low profile ramps, will my 07 be fine?
Royal Purple or Mobil 1? I use Mobil 1 religiously in both the H3 and the Miata. Wal-Mart has the RP at $8.50/qt., is it worth it?
Lastly, the filter, anything special there? Wrenches needed, etc.
P.S. searched posts but no answers to my questions, so don't pund me, I'm sure this has been asked b4
Oil changes hardly get any easier. The drain plug points sideways and can be accessed with a long extension through the front left wheel well without even removing the wheel. The filter is on the bottom of the motor and points straight down with nothing in the way.

Oil selection is a statistics game. GM has more data on oil life and engine wear than everybody on this forum put together. Unless you have good reason, I'd go with the factory fill recommendation: Mobil-1 5W-30.

The only issue you may have with the FIRST oil change is the fact that GM torques the filter to approximately 5,000 lb-ft. at the factory. You'll need a wrench to get it off, and then you'll never need the wrench again.

Last edited by torquetube; Sep 8, 2010 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 08:38 PM
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Well this answers most of my questions. I document the mileage on all my vehicles when I change the oil anyway, mostly for my own benefit so I know when the next change is due(I let Mobil 1 go 5k miles myself). I figured Mobil 1 would be the best bet anyway, no problem there. The previous owner had the oil changes done by the dealership, but it's out of the 3/36. I did get the GMPP extension, but I think I can handle a standard oil change. I've had the car almost two weeks and checked the oil life the other night(luckily), it is at 29%, which I'm not comfortable with, so I plan on the oil change Friday. The dealer didn't do a service before they sold it obviously.
Thanks for the help.
I know when I first got my H3, there was a complete write up on the Hummer Forum of a step-by-step "How To", which was very helpful with tips. Someone should do that here in this forum.
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by torquetube
The only issue you may have with the FIRST oil change is the fact that GM torques the filter to approximately 5,000 lb-ft. at the factory. You'll need a wrench to get it off, and then you'll never need the wrench again.
BTW, not the car's first oil change, just my first oil change on this car.
5000"lbs.? I know what you mean. I remember twisting an oil filter like a beer can on the Miata's first oil change. They must have a robot putting those things on!
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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This should do ya:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...hange-diy.html
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by torquetube
Oil changes hardly get any easier. The drain plug points sideways and can be accessed with a long extension through the front left wheel well without even removing the wheel. The filter is on the bottom of the motor and points straight down with nothing in the way.
............
The only issue you may have with the FIRST oil change is the fact that GM torques the filter to approximately 5,000 lb-ft. at the factory. You'll need a wrench to get it off, and then you'll never need the wrench again.
Couldn't be easier for LS2 and LS3 wet sump engines.

Last edited by GOLD72; Sep 9, 2010 at 12:51 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by CyberGS
believe it or not, this is one of those gray areas that can void your warranty and really depends on how hard nosed GM would be if you have an engine failure issue in the future.

if you change your oil v. the dealer or a certified shop, you can void the warranty. this can be fought, but be prepared to fight if you have an engine failure issue. one reason is they want a 3rd party document saying how many miles were on it when it was done, so they can confirm you didn't go 10K miles between changes.

if you stray from the GM standard and use Royal Purple, that can be deemed as a reason to void.

Again, is this something you want to fight if something happens? Or just pay the dealer a few bucks on the changes now to build a good working relationship should something actually happen.

if your warranty isn't a concern or you have already voided it on the engine with mods, then go for it, just wanted to get this out there in case you were unaware I had a big argument with FoMoCo about this when I found out changing my own oil would be an issue - I did it anyway because I do it right and don't impact gun install my drain plug, but knew up front I would have to fight if I had an issue. Fortunately I didn't, YMMV.
There don't appear to be any problems with DIY oil changes and GM warranty repairs.

Just like any DIY service on your car, you need to document when it was done and what parts were used. Save the receipts and make note of date, mileage, and Oil Life Remaining. If you want to be really thorough, take dated digital camera pictures of the odometer reading, OLI reading before resetting, and the new oil jug + filter.

Blackstone Labs told me they get oil samples from the car companies, apparently there is sometimes a suspicion that oil changes were not done as claimed. Your info, plus what Blackstone would say if a sample were sent, should solve that problem.

Of course, you are screwed if your drain plug falls out or the filter gasket starts leaking. I'd stick with the proper GM filter and be sure to use GM specified oil: 5W-30, meets GM4718M spec. The "regular" Mobil-1 is fine.

Enjoy!
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 2005dso
Very handy and well done! Is there a need to jack up the driver's side or can you get to the plug with an extension?
I'll let you know, as I'm doing it tomorrow. I've had a hockey puck in my junk drawer for 30 years and I finally get to use it! LOL
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 01:34 AM
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I drive the front up on ramps change the oil, put in Mobil 1 and a new Delco filter filled up with oil.
Takes me less than 30 minutes. Good luck.

Bob
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by CyberGS
believe it or not, this is one of those gray areas that can void your warranty and really depends on how hard nosed GM would be if you have an engine failure issue in the future.

if you change your oil v. the dealer or a certified shop, you can void the warranty. this can be fought, but be prepared to fight if you have an engine failure issue. one reason is they want a 3rd party document saying how many miles were on it when it was done, so they can confirm you didn't go 10K miles between changes.

if you stray from the GM standard and use Royal Purple, that can be deemed as a reason to void.

Again, is this something you want to fight if something happens? Or just pay the dealer a few bucks on the changes now to build a good working relationship should something actually happen.

if your warranty isn't a concern or you have already voided it on the engine with mods, then go for it, just wanted to get this out there in case you were unaware I had a big argument with FoMoCo about this when I found out changing my own oil would be an issue - I did it anyway because I do it right and don't impact gun install my drain plug, but knew up front I would have to fight if I had an issue. Fortunately I didn't, YMMV.
There is no gray area and you will not void your warranty if you change your own oil. Read the Magnuson-Moss Act.

Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
There don't appear to be any problems with DIY oil changes and GM warranty repairs.

Just like any DIY service on your car, you need to document when it was done and what parts were used. Save the receipts and make note of date, mileage, and Oil Life Remaining. If you want to be really thorough, take dated digital camera pictures of the odometer reading, OLI reading before resetting, and the new oil jug + filter.

Blackstone Labs told me they get oil samples from the car companies, apparently there is sometimes a suspicion that oil changes were not done as claimed. Your info, plus what Blackstone would say if a sample were sent, should solve that problem.

Of course, you are screwed if your drain plug falls out or the filter gasket starts leaking. I'd stick with the proper GM filter and be sure to use GM specified oil: 5W-30, meets GM4718M spec. The "regular" Mobil-1 is fine.

Enjoy!
Everything in bold can be faked...you better take a video of the actual oil change for irrefutable proof. Have a policeman there to witness and sign off on it too just in case. Where do you guys come up with this stuff??? All you have to do is write down the date and mileage of any maintenance performed in the owner's manual and that's it.
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 05:56 PM
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I guess if you want to be super safe, document everything complete with video/picture and a daily newspaper in the vid, saving all receipts, etc. But after a point, it does get ridiculous.

If you choose to go to an indie shop, non-GM, non-dealer, as long as they write down mileage and date, plus oil put in, and filter, I don't see a problem down the road should something happen. Of course, you need to keep that receipt, or there has to be a printout of it from the shop that can be obtained.

I'd guess at the point where it's a $7K engine (or $15K), someone's going to want some proof that you did what you said you were doing all along. While receipts alone don't show if the product was used, or what vehicle it was used for, it can't hurt to have them---just throw them in the Corvette file.

And like said above, make a note of date and mileage when done. If there's ever a question, you can show the list of dates, and at least some of the receipts for products like oil, filter, etc. Even a court won't expect more than that.
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 05:57 PM
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Although those items can be faked, your first job in a warranty situation is to have the dealer and GM believe you honestly did the service that's required. Unless something else is suspicious, the receipts are usually enough. Just saying "I did it" without any hint of outside verification, may not be enough.

I do the digital picture thing because it's so quick and easy; less than a minute of my time. More importantly, I may have purchased the parts many months and many thousands of miles before actually installing them. The pics will clarify what actually was done, and when; if anyone questions it later.
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 08:24 PM
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Easier than I thought! Took my time and completed in about 45 minutes. I didn't jack the driver's side, didn't need to. Used the Mobil 1 filter and the Mobil 1 oil. Previous change had used the cheap Delco filter from Wal-Mart.
Filed the receipt, documented the mileage as usual.
Just plain easy!
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 08:35 PM
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Sure it's easy. But your "cheap Delco filter" is installed at the factory on Every Vette. The engineers use it, GM recommends it and it is the only one i use.
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