When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I went through this drill when I swapped the pump in my 2009. If you walk into the dealership and order a replacement pump they show only one part number for the LS3 and LS7 cars. It makes sense that they would only carry one replacement part number and let the consumer pick up the cost difference between the base and Z06 pumps. When I pulled the pump from my car it had a different part number than the replacement Z06 pump. Externally, it looked the same.
I have not dropped the tank on a 2010+ car yet to see if the scenario is the same but I recall a forum member some time back..."MidnightMagnum" I think, that went through this with his 2010 Grand Sport and I remember he discovered the same thing as I found with my 2009...the part number of his original factory pump was different than the Z06 pump he replaced it with.
I think this needs more investigation but the Callaway comment seems to fit with what I found.
Thanks for that information and that thread was a great read.
When I visit the factory next month I'll question them on the pumps and see what I can get
In the meantime, the extra $1k spent on dry sump extras for the Edelbrock kit is the big headache.
Most of that extra $1k is the ZR1 oil cooler and associated hardware I would think. Some of that can be reclaimed if you decide to sell the Z06 style oil cooler that has to come off.
I will do it later this evening. Not trying to bash you or this write up by any means but just adding my .02 Everything was pretty dead on but there are just a few things missing, and hopefully it will help those in the future that are willing to go through this and all the cuss words haha.
I will do it later this evening. Not trying to bash you or this write up by any means but just adding my .02 Everything was pretty dead on but there are just a few things missing, and hopefully it will help those in the future that are willing to go through this and all the cuss words haha.
Sorry...I probably did a poor job of expressing my enthusiasm...what I was trying to say was "bring it on"...by no means do I think I know everything. I'm sure we can all benefit from anything that can be added to the how-to on this less than fun job.
Well after going back and reading everything again, and thinking in my head what all I did to remove mine. Yes there are a few things I did differently, but I also dropped the passenger side tank as well which was a major PITA!! But I am going back on my word, so my apologies to you sir. Great write up and yes I do feel bed for those who have to dive in this themselves for the very first time haha.
This is going to be a huge help to me. I'm pulling the trans in a few weeks to get rebuilt, and while it's all apart I'm going to swap in the Z06 fuel pump. I've been using the BAP, and now I'll be able to remove it.
I hope it is a little easier with the cradle, trans/diff, and exhaust out of the way. I'll get a few pics while it is apart and if they look like they would help, with your permission, I'll post them here.
great write up and pics, i watched as Chuck Cow did a fuel pump swap in my 09 C6. the hardest part to me was the attaching the fuel level sending unit to the pump on installation. if you screw this up, your fuel gauge will not work and you will have to reinstall the whole shebang. i don't believe there is enough warning about this step in the write up for first timers. best of luck.....
great write up and pics, i watched as Chuck Cow did a fuel pump swap in my 09 C6. the hardest part to me was the attaching the fuel level sending unit to the pump on installation. if you screw this up, your fuel gauge will not work and you will have to reinstall the whole shebang. i don't believe there is enough warning about this step in the write up for first timers. best of luck.....
jerry
OMG!!!! Welcome to MY nightmare!
I've done soooo many of these I'm still having NIGHTMARES.... (the little bit I actually sleep)
VERY good writeup! Could not have done better myself....
(except MY write up would have had more flashing lights and Hula girls...)
The fuel pump bucket in the drivers side tank is constantly kept full by the venturi tube. There are no baffles in the tank. As long as the bottom of the bucket is immersed in fuel then the bucket will remain full. Almost all GM pumps are used like this now. It's not true saying that driving with a 1/4 tank will uncover the pump partially.
I've done soooo many of these I'm still having NIGHTMARES.... (the little bit I actually sleep)
VERY good writeup! Could not have done better myself....
(except MY write up would have had more flashing lights and Hula girls...)
Stay TUNED!
Chuck CoW
Thanks Chuck...obviously I'm just a "hobbyist mechanic" and like to share my own personal nightmare with others so as to maybe save them a few headaches.
Why all the fuel pump replacements? Are all having the same problem I am, the car not starting, take out the fuel pump relay, shake it, replace and then car starts? My relay is turning brown indicating getting too hot so I figured it must be the fuel pump. But before I undertake this huge job (I thank Motorhead-47 for his outstanding post) I would like to know if others have traced the car not starting to the fuel pump.
Why all the fuel pump replacements? Are all having the same problem I am, the car not starting, take out the fuel pump relay, shake it, replace and then car starts? My relay is turning brown indicating getting too hot so I figured it must be the fuel pump. But before I undertake this huge job (I thank Motorhead-47 for his outstanding post) I would like to know if others have traced the car not starting to the fuel pump.
the main reason for changing fuel pumps is when going to forced induction (a supercharger) the fuel demands exceed the limits of a stock pump. when purchasing an e-force setup, they include a Z06 pump to meet the increased fuel demands.
Why all the fuel pump replacements? Are all having the same problem I am, the car not starting, take out the fuel pump relay, shake it, replace and then car starts? My relay is turning brown indicating getting too hot so I figured it must be the fuel pump. But before I undertake this huge job (I thank Motorhead-47 for his outstanding post) I would like to know if others have traced the car not starting to the fuel pump.
Install a temporary mechanical fuel pressure gauge (available at Autozone type stores) on the schrader valve on the front of the driver's side fuel rail when you get the no-start condition. You are looking for 55-ish lbs of fuel pressure. This will tell you whether it is fuel delivery or not. A common clue (but not always) on these pumps is they will often get noisy before they die.