MGW Shifter too tight - adjustable?
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,359
Likes: 6
From: Los Alamitos California
St. Jude Donor '09
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 17
From: Whitehall New York
Learn to shift? I hope there's a class for that! lol
But seriously, are there any adjustments?
(I saw this thread -
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-p...-for-sale.html
- so maybe I am not the only one?)
Last edited by Brian; Dec 4, 2010 at 01:01 AM.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 741
Likes: 8
From: Netherlands
I have used it on the street and several track days and I love the tightness of the shifter, no problems here.
Maybe you have to get used to the tight feel, after a while you don't want to go back to the sloppy feel of the default shifter.
Fred
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 5
From: Ambler Pa.
I put lighter springs in the shifter assembly and shimmed the detent bolt in the trans. At one time there were threads on this forum with details. I think you can get the springs at Grainger or similar industrial supply. The original springs are in the 60 lb. range, I'm using some in the 30 lb. range. A 1/16" copper washer under the detent bolt on top of the trans will also help.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 17
From: Whitehall New York
I own the latest model (thanks George) and it is tight, but that's the whole point in buying an MGW shifter.
I have used it on the street and several track days and I love the tightness of the shifter, no problems here.
Maybe you have to get used to the tight feel, after a while you don't want to go back to the sloppy feel of the default shifter.
Fred
I have used it on the street and several track days and I love the tightness of the shifter, no problems here.
Maybe you have to get used to the tight feel, after a while you don't want to go back to the sloppy feel of the default shifter.
Fred
Thanks everybody for the input.
Brian
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 17
From: Whitehall New York
I put lighter springs in the shifter assembly and shimmed the detent bolt in the trans. At one time there were threads on this forum with details. I think you can get the springs at Grainger or similar industrial supply. The original springs are in the 60 lb. range, I'm using some in the 30 lb. range. A 1/16" copper washer under the detent bolt on top of the trans will also help.
Maybe the original owner missed something in the directions.
(That's possible since when he installed the long tube headers, he held up the emmision wiring with zip ties, which eventually melted and caused the wiring harnesses to melt to the headers. What a mess I had to clean up!)
Brian
Last edited by Brian; Dec 4, 2010 at 09:01 AM.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 445
Likes: 1
From: Cedar Park (Austin) Texas
Brian
Have you talked to George at MGW? I'm sure he would welcome a call. One of the best vendors I've ever dealt with. Great guy.
(706)793-1770 I've had his shifter for 3 yrs, great feel and not one missed shift. What ever is wrong, I'm sure it can be fixed and you will be equally as happy with your shifter.
Good Luck
Have you talked to George at MGW? I'm sure he would welcome a call. One of the best vendors I've ever dealt with. Great guy.
(706)793-1770 I've had his shifter for 3 yrs, great feel and not one missed shift. What ever is wrong, I'm sure it can be fixed and you will be equally as happy with your shifter.
Good Luck
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Brett Foote
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 3,570
Likes: 3
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
Shifter isn't really too tight. But it's the gear selection that is tight and it is hit or miss. When you think you are upshifting, the tranny is actually in a lower gear and you find out when you dump the clutch and overrev the engine. I may sell the unit and get the Hurst instead and just start out fresh.
Maybe the original owner missed something in the directions.
(That's possible since when he installed the long tube headers, he held up the emmision wiring with zip ties, which eventually melted and caused the wiring harnesses to melt to the headers. What a mess I had to clean up!)
Brian
Maybe the original owner missed something in the directions.
(That's possible since when he installed the long tube headers, he held up the emmision wiring with zip ties, which eventually melted and caused the wiring harnesses to melt to the headers. What a mess I had to clean up!)
Brian
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 10,436
Likes: 4
From: Everett Wa
Brian lets see if I can help you out. It is a tight shifter, short throw and narrow gate. IMO the best shifter on the market but there is a learning curve to it.
Because it is a very narrow gate it is very easy to over control the shirter. Never try and manhandle it. Just use your palm and fingers. If you are in 1st, 3rd or 5th and just pull back firm with your fingers you will always end up in 4th. Push up with your palm in 2nd, 4th and 6th will always land you in 3rd. In summary you will always end up in the center gate by just pulling or pushing.
If you want to play in the 1st and 2nd gate apply pressure to the right side of the shifter and either pull with your fingers for 2nd or push to 1st with your palm. 5th and 6th the same method with but apply pressure to the left side of the shifter. Remember not appling pressure right or left will always land you in 3rd or 4th.
It is a very easy shifter to live with once you follow this process.
Because it is a very narrow gate it is very easy to over control the shirter. Never try and manhandle it. Just use your palm and fingers. If you are in 1st, 3rd or 5th and just pull back firm with your fingers you will always end up in 4th. Push up with your palm in 2nd, 4th and 6th will always land you in 3rd. In summary you will always end up in the center gate by just pulling or pushing.
If you want to play in the 1st and 2nd gate apply pressure to the right side of the shifter and either pull with your fingers for 2nd or push to 1st with your palm. 5th and 6th the same method with but apply pressure to the left side of the shifter. Remember not appling pressure right or left will always land you in 3rd or 4th.
It is a very easy shifter to live with once you follow this process.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 741
Likes: 8
From: Netherlands
I put lighter springs in the shifter assembly and shimmed the detent bolt in the trans. At one time there were threads on this forum with details. I think you can get the springs at Grainger or similar industrial supply. The original springs are in the 60 lb. range, I'm using some in the 30 lb. range. A 1/16" copper washer under the detent bolt on top of the trans will also help.
Anyway, you should talk to George from MGW, he is one of the most helpful forum vendors I have ever had the pleasure of dealing with on this forum.
Fred
Pro
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 538
Likes: 1
From: Niles Michigan
Brian lets see if I can help you out. It is a tight shifter, short throw and narrow gate. IMO the best shifter on the market but there is a learning curve to it.
Because it is a very narrow gate it is very easy to over control the shirter. Never try and manhandle it. Just use your palm and fingers. If you are in 1st, 3rd or 5th and just pull back firm with your fingers you will always end up in 4th. Push up with your palm in 2nd, 4th and 6th will always land you in 3rd. In summary you will always end up in the center gate by just pulling or pushing.
If you want to play in the 1st and 2nd gate apply pressure to the right side of the shifter and either pull with your fingers for 2nd or push to 1st with your palm. 5th and 6th the same method with but apply pressure to the left side of the shifter. Remember not appling pressure right or left will always land you in 3rd or 4th.
It is a very easy shifter to live with once you follow this process.
Because it is a very narrow gate it is very easy to over control the shirter. Never try and manhandle it. Just use your palm and fingers. If you are in 1st, 3rd or 5th and just pull back firm with your fingers you will always end up in 4th. Push up with your palm in 2nd, 4th and 6th will always land you in 3rd. In summary you will always end up in the center gate by just pulling or pushing.
If you want to play in the 1st and 2nd gate apply pressure to the right side of the shifter and either pull with your fingers for 2nd or push to 1st with your palm. 5th and 6th the same method with but apply pressure to the left side of the shifter. Remember not appling pressure right or left will always land you in 3rd or 4th.
It is a very easy shifter to live with once you follow this process.
It is a little different to get used to at first. That is excellent advice on shifting. See Rangers posts as he also has good advice on shifting. I love my MGW. Call George @ MGW or send him an e-mail. He is fantastic at getting back to you with your concerns.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 11,666
Likes: 361
From: Canyon Country, California
Brian lets see if I can help you out. It is a tight shifter, short throw and narrow gate. IMO the best shifter on the market but there is a learning curve to it.
Because it is a very narrow gate it is very easy to over control the shirter. Never try and manhandle it. Just use your palm and fingers. If you are in 1st, 3rd or 5th and just pull back firm with your fingers you will always end up in 4th. Push up with your palm in 2nd, 4th and 6th will always land you in 3rd. In summary you will always end up in the center gate by just pulling or pushing.
If you want to play in the 1st and 2nd gate apply pressure to the right side of the shifter and either pull with your fingers for 2nd or push to 1st with your palm. 5th and 6th the same method with but apply pressure to the left side of the shifter. Remember not appling pressure right or left will always land you in 3rd or 4th.
It is a very easy shifter to live with once you follow this process.
Because it is a very narrow gate it is very easy to over control the shirter. Never try and manhandle it. Just use your palm and fingers. If you are in 1st, 3rd or 5th and just pull back firm with your fingers you will always end up in 4th. Push up with your palm in 2nd, 4th and 6th will always land you in 3rd. In summary you will always end up in the center gate by just pulling or pushing.
If you want to play in the 1st and 2nd gate apply pressure to the right side of the shifter and either pull with your fingers for 2nd or push to 1st with your palm. 5th and 6th the same method with but apply pressure to the left side of the shifter. Remember not appling pressure right or left will always land you in 3rd or 4th.
It is a very easy shifter to live with once you follow this process.
I found out the first time I tried mine. I landed in in 3rd instead of 5th and its never happened again.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 17
From: Whitehall New York
I put lighter springs in the shifter assembly and shimmed the detent bolt in the trans. At one time there were threads on this forum with details. I think you can get the springs at Grainger or similar industrial supply. The original springs are in the 60 lb. range, I'm using some in the 30 lb. range. A 1/16" copper washer under the detent bolt on top of the trans will also help.
Brian lets see if I can help you out. It is a tight shifter, short throw and narrow gate. IMO the best shifter on the market but there is a learning curve to it.
Because it is a very narrow gate it is very easy to over control the shirter. Never try and manhandle it. Just use your palm and fingers. If you are in 1st, 3rd or 5th and just pull back firm with your fingers you will always end up in 4th. Push up with your palm in 2nd, 4th and 6th will always land you in 3rd. In summary you will always end up in the center gate by just pulling or pushing.
If you want to play in the 1st and 2nd gate apply pressure to the right side of the shifter and either pull with your fingers for 2nd or push to 1st with your palm. 5th and 6th the same method with but apply pressure to the left side of the shifter. Remember not appling pressure right or left will always land you in 3rd or 4th.
It is a very easy shifter to live with once you follow this process.
Because it is a very narrow gate it is very easy to over control the shirter. Never try and manhandle it. Just use your palm and fingers. If you are in 1st, 3rd or 5th and just pull back firm with your fingers you will always end up in 4th. Push up with your palm in 2nd, 4th and 6th will always land you in 3rd. In summary you will always end up in the center gate by just pulling or pushing.
If you want to play in the 1st and 2nd gate apply pressure to the right side of the shifter and either pull with your fingers for 2nd or push to 1st with your palm. 5th and 6th the same method with but apply pressure to the left side of the shifter. Remember not appling pressure right or left will always land you in 3rd or 4th.
It is a very easy shifter to live with once you follow this process.
Thanks to everyone!
Brian
Last edited by Brian; Dec 5, 2010 at 07:55 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,802
Likes: 38
From: A galaxy far, far away...
St. Jude Donor '12 thru '26
Brian - it sounds like there's something wrong & not it's not your shifting skills. You already said you bought the car used & you mentioned other blotched parts installs from the previous owner. Have you taken the shifter out & investigated? Maybe it's something obvious, maybe the previous owner already tried changing the springs (if it’s the older model shifter) & didn't put it back together correctly.
Let us know George says - Good luck
Let us know George says - Good luck
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 223
Likes: 22
From: Patriotic Common Sense County
I have had a lot of cars in life. Drag racing and/or road racing in many of them. This MGW shifter is the best I have ever experienced. That being said, it is a different animal. Sounds to me that something just isn't right with your setup.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 1,239
Likes: 17
From: Whitehall New York
Brian - it sounds like there's something wrong & not it's not your shifting skills. You already said you bought the car used & you mentioned other blotched parts installs from the previous owner. Have you taken the shifter out & investigated? Maybe it's something obvious, maybe the previous owner already tried changing the springs (if it’s the older model shifter) & didn't put it back together correctly.
Let us know George says - Good luck
Let us know George says - Good luck
Brian
Racer
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
I have the MGW shifter, love it. I have one time, just recently actually done the 3rd gear instead of 5th with the complementary overrev. Talk about surprise, at 5th gear speeds. 
I have caught myself a few times being over aggressive with the gear selection. When I first got the it my problem was the other way, hitting 5th instead of 3rd. I think it all comes down to man handling the shift and something to work on in the driver improvement category.
I have caught myself a few times being over aggressive with the gear selection. When I first got the it my problem was the other way, hitting 5th instead of 3rd. I think it all comes down to man handling the shift and something to work on in the driver improvement category.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I do NOT understand what your calling TIGHT???
If you move the shifter to NUTERAL and just push the handle to the LEFT and RIGHT, when you let the handle go, it should self center to the 3rd/neutral/4th gate. CORRECT?????
When you "USE THE PALM OF YOUR HAND and TIPS of your fingers" to move the lever to the 1st/2nd gate, you should be able to PUSH the shift lever to 1st or or pull to 2nd without any excessive force. Same with 5th/6th gate
So what action are you calling DIFFICULT or TIGHT????
There’s a rod inside the shift box that slides forward or reward and also moves side to side. I’ve seen them get stiff and some grease easily fixes that issue. The rubber bushings that are used to cushion/isolate the shifter box from the torque tube are KNOWN to go bad and adversely effect shifting.
I have also found the screws that attach the shifter to the lower box loose and that can also cause shifting issues. The OEM shifter screws are shorter than the aftermarket screws and if the OEM screws are used, the shifter will pull out of the lower shift box.
Bill
If you move the shifter to NUTERAL and just push the handle to the LEFT and RIGHT, when you let the handle go, it should self center to the 3rd/neutral/4th gate. CORRECT?????
When you "USE THE PALM OF YOUR HAND and TIPS of your fingers" to move the lever to the 1st/2nd gate, you should be able to PUSH the shift lever to 1st or or pull to 2nd without any excessive force. Same with 5th/6th gate
So what action are you calling DIFFICULT or TIGHT????
There’s a rod inside the shift box that slides forward or reward and also moves side to side. I’ve seen them get stiff and some grease easily fixes that issue. The rubber bushings that are used to cushion/isolate the shifter box from the torque tube are KNOWN to go bad and adversely effect shifting.
I have also found the screws that attach the shifter to the lower box loose and that can also cause shifting issues. The OEM shifter screws are shorter than the aftermarket screws and if the OEM screws are used, the shifter will pull out of the lower shift box.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Dec 8, 2010 at 01:58 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,523
Likes: 12
From: OH
I had the same problem.....Unscrew your **** till it gets easier.
I had my **** screwed all the way down and I was like how the hell....where is reverse...I unscrewed the **** till it was easier.
It sounds stupid, but it makes a huge diff.
I had my **** screwed all the way down and I was like how the hell....where is reverse...I unscrewed the **** till it was easier.
It sounds stupid, but it makes a huge diff.
Last edited by MikeSVT04; Dec 8, 2010 at 02:46 PM.