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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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St. Jude Donor '11-'13-'14-'15
Default Electrical Problem

I'm having electrical problems with my 07 vette. It just started acting up in the past couple weeks since the temp has started to get colder. The doors will intermittently not open all the way without pushing the switch twice. It will release the door than catch it again requiring the second push of the button. This is getting in and out of the car.

The ignition is also acting up. Sometimes when I push the start switch I get a click and nothing and other times it starts ok. The alternator checked ok at autozone and I replaced the battery just for gp but it still clicks and won't start, more frequently now.

Any ideas?

Thanks.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 03:54 PM
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Did you have any work done on the car just before the problems started? Anyway, sounds like the behavior of a weak/dying battery.

Maybe the new battery wasn't well-charged. And if you drive infrequently and/or take mostly short trips, maybe the new battery is getting weaker. Or maybe it's defective.

Or maybe something is draining the battery while the car sits. This could be difficult to find. Maybe corrosion on the outside door pads causing a short (this is pretty easy to check). Maybe a loose connection or corrosion on the cables near the battery. If you adjust your seat a lot, might be some frayed wiring...

That is, it's probably (hopefully) something easily fixable, and maybe you'll get lucky and find it right away. Good luck.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 04:27 PM
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Here's a thought... I had a new battery too!

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=846931


Elmer

Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; Dec 4, 2010 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
Here's a thought... I had a new battery too!

http://www.ls2.com/forums/showthread.php?t=846931


Elmer
Ironically, there's no need to completely remove the cone-shaped nut... just loosen it, and the clamp can then be loosened.

Last time I checked, the cone-shaped nut is not available as a separate item... you have to buy the whole dang clamp assembly!
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 07:14 PM
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check your starter connections. may be loose on the positive lug.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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I have not had any work done on the car since the oil change in August. In the last week I've gotten the SERVICE CHARGING SYSTEM on the DIC twice but I turned the car off then back on and it went away. While it was on, the voltage was reading 11.5. I just replaced the battery today and did not notice any corrosion on the cables or old battery terminals. I'm not sure of the state of charge on the new battery but will try driving it for a couple hours tomorrow to make sure it is fully charged. Thanks for the inputs.
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 08:30 AM
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11.5 is way too low for things to run normally. Also, why are you having to push the door open buttons twice? That's not normal. You should only need to push once, holding for about half a second for the receiver to turn, query the fob, then unlock.
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 10:14 AM
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Yeah, the door unlocks, opens about a quarter inch then catches again. I'm going to check the door switches today to see if they need cleaning. I've been having window indexing issues also, to the point where I reindex them almost every time I get out of the car. The windows seem to be operating correctly when to door catches.

Last edited by ABQ C6; Dec 5, 2010 at 10:20 AM.
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 12:36 PM
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I would have that new battery tested as you can get a "new" bad battery. While you're at it, get it up on a jack(s) and take a good look at the solenoid connection. This is the electrical center of the car. You want to insure that those connections are clean and tight with no evidence of burnt insulation. The car's negative battery cable attaches to the engine block there as well with the same suggestions for it. Remember that this is all electrically hot down there unless you pull the negative battery cable first.
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 03:53 PM
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Ok, I took it out for about a 1.5 hour drive. The voltage stayed at 14.4-14.5 for the whole drive. When I got home I let the car idle while I cleaned the driver side door switch. In the five minutes it took to take the switch off, clean it, and reinstall it the voltage dropped to 13.5. Is this normal or do I have an unusual drain on my battery?
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 04:10 PM
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That would be a fully charged battery with the ignition off...nice normal level there. Now if the car was running, yes, it'll drop to that considering the alternator isn't running at full speed, fans on and whatever all else.
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by CO Lightfoot
Ironically, there's no need to completely remove the cone-shaped nut... just loosen it, and the clamp can then be loosened.

Last time I checked, the cone-shaped nut is not available as a separate item... you have to buy the whole dang clamp assembly!
I know that and you know that but Ziggy, the zit faced battery changer, didn't catch that part and managed to drop and lose the original. I just cut off both ends and put on aftermarket connectors to eliminate the issue in the future. Oh, and Ziggy didn't mention that he lost the nut.

Elmer
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by ABQ C6
Yeah, the door unlocks, opens about a quarter inch then catches again.
...
The other symptoms you're experiencing suggest electrical problems, but...

I had this problem with the door catching as I opened it. Turns out, I was getting wimpy with the door. You need to apply a gentle pull as you squeeze the touch pad, and open the door as soon as it releases. If you hesitate, the door gets "stuck" just as you described.

This was true on both our 2006 and now the 2009.

Good luck!
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
The other symptoms you're experiencing suggest electrical problems, but...

I had this problem with the door catching as I opened it. Turns out, I was getting wimpy with the door. You need to apply a gentle pull as you squeeze the touch pad, and open the door as soon as it releases. If you hesitate, the door gets "stuck" just as you described.

This was true on both our 2006 and now the 2009.

Good luck!
I hate to admit it but I think this may be the case with mine too. The starting issue is still up in the air.
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:17 AM
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This morning when i tried to get in the car, squeezing firmly with four fingers, the door would open slightly that catch again. Upon second pushing of the button it would not open. After several tries it finally opened. WTF. The car did start on the first try, though. I'm very confused.
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:24 AM
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I can hear the door latch cycle when i push the button but it catches or just doesn't release.
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 11:57 PM
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Well, since Tuesday the car has not acted up at all. The driver's door hiccupped once Tuesday morning but only took a second push of the button to open. The engine has started on the first push every time. I have gotten the SERVICE CHARGING SYSTEM twice, but it only seems to come on when I start the car and let it sit for an extended period but goes out as soon as I start driving.
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 01:10 AM
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Are you still under warranty? I'd say let the dealership go through the hassle of finding the problem, but that's just me
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Old Dec 12, 2010 | 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ABQ C6
Well, since Tuesday the car has not acted up at all. The driver's door hiccupped once Tuesday morning but only took a second push of the button to open. The engine has started on the first push every time. I have gotten the SERVICE CHARGING SYSTEM twice, but it only seems to come on when I start the car and let it sit for an extended period but goes out as soon as I start driving.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...ng-system.html

give this a shot

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...message-2.html

see post 26
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 05:52 PM
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Sounds like the battery is not doing so good. It does better when the car is running/charging but maybe not as good just before.
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