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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:53 PM
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From: Rosharon TEXAS
Default Service charging system

i know there have been a few threads concerning "service charging system" issues,however my situation seems to be different?the car starts no problem but if i run the a/c or turn the radio on my voltage reader drops to about 13,and during idle and stop and go driving my temperature rises to around 220 degrees and normally it stayed around 180 or 190 being that i have a 180 degrees thermostat? i do have a cam,headers,bolt ons,and ngk plugs.i did change the plugs back to the factory ac delco plugs,i had the battery checked and it was fine,and i checked to make sure all connections were tight and solid.the problem is still there?the only other thing i can think of is maybe alternator?the part that confuses me the most is the temperature issue?my c6 only has 30k miles.. anyone know anything about this?thanks,chris
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 01:13 AM
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There are a ton of corvettes there so find someone who will swap alternators for a test run to see if it works. It takes 10 mins to swap one out.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 01:32 AM
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From: Rosharon TEXAS
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Thats not a bad idea..i put the stock plugs back in and i had my battery checked so i cant think of what else it could be? The cars temp going up to 220 degrees on a 160 thermostat is whats confusing me the most.i would think the only other solution would have to be the alternator? My car sits for weeks at a time without being started so that may be why the alternator may be failing?if the alternator is going out how would that cause the temperature to get so high? Thanks,chris
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 02:37 AM
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Your car runs hot because the fans are spinning slower from lower voltage.

The two remaining things are the alternator and the battery wire on the starter terminals. they can melt.

The connector on your fan should also be checked because it can get hot and melt too especially if you have a tune that turns the fan on sooner. It runs more time. This can cause a high resistance and slow the fan and add to battery current draw.
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 02:51 AM
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From: Rosharon TEXAS
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Man that just makes too much sense! Thank you spin,that makes me feel better.i'll take a look at everything and see if i can figure it out,if everything seems fine i will replace the alternator.thank you buddy,chris
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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St. Jude Donor '08
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The battery and the alternator are connected together thru a connection on the starter solenoid. (the main stud) This connection is easily compromised. The nut comes loose or doesn’t get properly tightened and, the terminal gets corroded and the resistance at the junction gets high.

Check that main terminal on the starter solenoid and make sure that its clean and tight.

Installing headers frequently causes people to remove or disturb the main ground connection on the engine block (it right above the starter)
Make sure that the main ground cable bolt and eyelet are tight and corrosion free.

You can make a TEMPORARY jumper wire and attach it to the POSITIVE battery terminal and the BATT terminal on the back of the alternator. If your charging voltages improve and the fault light goes away, there’s resistance issues between the starter and the battery.



BC
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Old Jan 7, 2011 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
The battery and the alternator are connected together thru a connection on the starter solenoid. (the main stud) This connection is easily compromised. The nut comes loose or doesn’t get properly tightened and, the terminal gets corroded and the resistance at the junction gets high.

Check that main terminal on the starter solenoid and make sure that its clean and tight.

Installing headers frequently causes people to remove or disturb the main ground connection on the engine block (it right above the starter)
Make sure that the main ground cable bolt and eyelet are tight and corrosion free.

You can make a TEMPORARY jumper wire and attach it to the POSITIVE battery terminal and the BATT terminal on the back of the alternator. If your charging voltages improve and the fault light goes away, there’s resistance issues between the starter and the battery.

BC
Nice post, took the words right out of my mouth!

Id like to add, that i also think it is possible to heatsoak the alternator causing a lower voltage,

I'd deffinately try a wire directly from the alt to the battery first though.
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 10:43 AM
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Hey Bill, I'm wondering if the C-6 has the same or similar fuseable link for the alternator to the solenoid like the C-5 has? If so, it might be something we need to suggest for the C-6's as possible issues?
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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 11:59 AM
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Check this out!

C6 Charging system



COMPARED to the C5 Charging system:

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Old Jan 8, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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It certainly does. Monitoring has a different path of course
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 01:27 AM
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From: Rosharon TEXAS
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I really appreciate everythig guys..im gonna start the process of elimination on monday so i'll be sure to post the results..thank yall very muh.chris
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 09:21 AM
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 02:47 PM
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Great job pulling down the schematics. I wish the c6 was a little more shown inside the alt.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
Your car runs hot because the fans are spinning slower from lower voltage.

The two remaining things are the alternator and the battery wire on the starter terminals. they can melt.

The connector on your fan should also be checked because it can get hot and melt too especially if you have a tune that turns the fan on sooner. It runs more time. This can cause a high resistance and slow the fan and add to battery current draw.
I have a DC AMP CLAMP which I got at sears for $49.00 and found it to be invaluable. The actual current thru the Fan Motor is 25 Amps DC full on
or at 100% Duty Cycle that I read without disconnecting any plugs. That and a DVM is great for troubleshooting.
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