When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I hoped I might get lucky in my swap over to stainless lines, but I've got the dreaded stripped fittings on the hard lines on the first two wheels I've tried.
I have the correct die (10mm x1), but I can't see how I'm going to get it in there with the t-handle... not enough room to turn it.
I've never cut and flanged a line before, so I'm not sure that will be any easier. I'd roto-zip the end off, and I'd need to get the tool. I'm not even sure what the tool looks like. Can I get it back in there better than the die tool?
Any help from the veterans on which way to go??
I've got these new DRM brake lines and powdercoated calipers just itching to get hooked up.
I hoped I might get lucky in my swap over to stainless lines, but I've got the dreaded stripped fittings on the hard lines on the first two wheels I've tried.
I have the correct die (10mm x1), but I can't see how I'm going to get it in there with the t-handle... not enough room to turn it.
I've never cut and flanged a line before, so I'm not sure that will be any easier. I'd roto-zip the end off, and I'd need to get the tool. I'm not even sure what the tool looks like. Can I get it back in there better than the die tool?
Any help from the veterans on which way to go??
I've got these new DRM brake lines and powdercoated calipers just itching to get hooked up.
Use a large socket to hold the die, the use your 13mm wrench to turn the tube nut. Or I had one that was wacked up on my car and I used a thread file to cut and repair the threads, which for me worked out.
Thanks for the quick reply, TJWONG!
What am I missing, though... the die is round. How is a socket gonna hold it? Biggest I have is 24mm and then I jump up to 27mm. Looks like 25-26mm might fit, but I still don't see how it's gonna hold it and keep it from turning??
I hoped I might get lucky in my swap over to stainless lines, but I've got the dreaded stripped fittings on the hard lines on the first two wheels I've tried.
I have the correct die (10mm x1), but I can't see how I'm going to get it in there with the t-handle... not enough room to turn it.
I've never cut and flanged a line before, so I'm not sure that will be any easier. I'd roto-zip the end off, and I'd need to get the tool. I'm not even sure what the tool looks like. Can I get it back in there better than the die tool?
Any help from the veterans on which way to go??
I've got these new DRM brake lines and powdercoated calipers just itching to get hooked up.
This should help. If you need more help, PM me and I'll give you my number. BTW, I'd never cut and double-flared a line before.
Thanks San. I'm leaning this way. I'll call around to Auto Zones tomorrow to check on the tool. I'm also going to call DRM and see if they have a better fitting than the OEM. I've worked with much better fittings on the motorcycles I've done.
I'll let you know how things go.
TJ -- I think I get it... I seem to remember seeing 8-sided dies before. I just don't have any.
Thanks San. I'm leaning this way. I'll call around to Auto Zones tomorrow to check on the tool. I'm also going to call DRM and see if they have a better fitting than the OEM. I've worked with much better fittings on the motorcycles I've done.
I'll let you know how things go.
TJ -- I think I get it... I seem to remember seeing 8-sided dies before. I just don't have any.
Thanks guys!
The OEM fitting is fine. The idiot who's stripping the fitting from the factory needs to be shot. It's usually the passenger front that's the problem.
I have a die, but it wasn't going to work on the stripped fitting with the limited space.
San
Last edited by oldmansan; Jan 9, 2011 at 07:58 PM.
They are coming stripped from the factory? Really? This is a common thing?
Unfortunately quite common, on my car it was the left rear. I am pretty sure that the 10mm x 1mm thread nuts can also be found at NAPA or other AP stores. They have 3/16 line usually in stock with the nuts on the line, one just has to cut their flares off and gather the nuts. I have flared the lines in the car before, it isn't a bad job as long as you have the length left to make the flare. What I had to do once was to just cut the line where it was a long straight section, double flare it, add a steel union, then got a short pre-made line with the correct fittings and made a new line connecting at the union. It works, and usually is not seen. And I agree that azz over torquing the brake lines in Bowling Green needs to be spanked! Or the Bowling Green facility needs to be made aware of this situation.
Originally Posted by Liner
Thanks for the quick reply, TJWONG!
What am I missing, though... the die is round. How is a socket gonna hold it? Biggest I have is 24mm and then I jump up to 27mm. Looks like 25-26mm might fit, but I still don't see how it's gonna hold it and keep it from turning??
Hmm well, all my thread dies are hex shapped. You can get a NAPA thread die in that size that is hex shapped, I know because I have one that I needed to buy last year for this very same issue.
Resurrecting this old but useful thread. Just had this happen to me. Both passenger side steel line nuts with stripped thread while upgrading to ss lines . I was able to rethread them with an M10x1 die. Looks like the rear is holding but the front is leaking.
Before I go and cut the steel line, install a new nut and double flare to the line... Does anyone have any other ideas on stopping the leak?
Thx
H
Resurrecting this old but useful thread. Just had this happen to me. Both passenger side steel line nuts with stripped thread while upgrading to ss lines . I was able to rethread them with an M10x1 die. Looks like the rear is holding but the front is leaking.
Before I go and cut the steel line, install a new nut and double flare to the line... Does anyone have any other ideas on stopping the leak?
Thx
H
Since the threads have little to do with the sealing of the line. Inspect the flare on the brake line. Then try loosening and tightening the fitting down a couple times. In hopes to get the over-tightened smashed flare to come back into the proper angle. This really sucks we fight them also one car 3 out of 4, the next 2 out of the 4, the next all of them. Even a new or used rubber line sometimes will not go on.
Since the threads have little to do with the sealing of the line. Inspect the flare on the brake line. Then try loosening and tightening the fitting down a couple times. In hopes to get the over-tightened smashed flare to come back into the proper angle. This really sucks we fight them also one car 3 out of 4, the next 2 out of the 4, the next all of them. Even a new or used rubber line sometimes will not go on.
Randy
Thanks Randy! Good point, I did notice that the tip of the flare was sort of flat. I may try a drill tip to get a chamfer back.
H
Happy New Year.
Well... Tried the drill bit to chamfer the flare, that didn't work, still leaked.
Bit the bullet went to Autozone and got the inline flaring tool, not bad for $25. Did a nice job. It's very compact and allows you to do the job right there on the car. Got flare nuts and a line cutter as well.
An observation not previously mentioned. The flaring tool only works for 3/16ths line. Had a shock when I set it up and and it didn't fit the line. The line was larger. Looking closely I found that the line has a what appears to be a PVC coating bonded to the line. Once I removed the coating with a razor blade it fit fine. As previously noted put that new flare nut on there right away after you cut the line. Almost forgot it. I found that the 3/16ths nut wouldn't fit the line because of the PVC coating. Had to drill out the center of the nut to go over the line. Aside from those two complications it went well. Still it a real pain to work with brake fluid dripping all over.
H
Installed Stop Tech lines 4 months ago with some issues. Just noticed a good size brake fluid leak from the left front. My Chevy dealer told me the lines did not have a part number and you just had to make them. Is this the case? I would like to replace with new if possible, if not I think i might just make new ones out of s/s
Installed Stop Tech lines 4 months ago with some issues. Just noticed a good size brake fluid leak from the left front. My Chevy dealer told me the lines did not have a part number and you just had to make them. Is this the case? I would like to replace with new if possible, if not I think i might just make new ones out of s/s
I had to replace my rear line and there was a GM part number. Sorry I do not have the number.
Resurrecting this old but useful thread. Just had this happen to me. Both passenger side steel line nuts with stripped thread while upgrading to ss lines . I was able to rethread them with an M10x1 die. Looks like the rear is holding but the front is leaking.
Before I go and cut the steel line, install a new nut and double flare to the line... Does anyone have any other ideas on stopping the leak?
Thx
H
Remember, there are thread cutting dies and thread restoring dies. The restoring dies do not cut away metal and are what is probably best for this project. I had to use a small file when repairing mine but now I have both types of dies. lol
Installed Stop Tech lines 4 months ago with some issues. Just noticed a good size brake fluid leak from the left front. My Chevy dealer told me the lines did not have a part number and you just had to make them. Is this the case? I would like to replace with new if possible, if not I think i might just make new ones out of s/s
Typical dealer, all they know how to do is swap parts and then charge you an arm and a leg for it. If the leak is like mine, right there at the fitting, it's really a simple matter to replace the fitting and reflare as I did. Mine has been dry since I did it. If your not comfortable doing it yourself, find yourself a good local vette shop and I'm sure they can handle that.
H