Replacing stock exhaust quick question
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Replacing stock exhaust quick question
SO, I already have the Corsa axle back system that I put on my C6 and the hardest part of that was getting the stock exhaust off of the stupid rubber hangers! 
. My question is this, I bought the LG long tubes and X pipe with cats and am trying to figure out how much time I should allow for me to remove the stock headers and pipe and install the new system, and anything odd I might need to know. Seems pretty staright forward. I was thinking a couple of hours and some music and me and "corvette" time togetherness. Thoughts? I have all the tools I need and space. (steps: remove stock mid pipe, remove stock headers, replace with long tube headers, place new xpipe and sensors, tighten her down. Isnt that about it? PLEEEEZE tell me yes. My dealer wanted $500 or so to do this because it is "manifold" on their rate sheet. They are all good guys and very trustworthy, but I like to work on my own crap as much as possible! P.S., I know there are a million youtube videos out there, but I will take before and after videos also for sound purposes in case anyone would like to hear the differences.
. My question is this, I bought the LG long tubes and X pipe with cats and am trying to figure out how much time I should allow for me to remove the stock headers and pipe and install the new system, and anything odd I might need to know. Seems pretty staright forward. I was thinking a couple of hours and some music and me and "corvette" time togetherness. Thoughts? I have all the tools I need and space. (steps: remove stock mid pipe, remove stock headers, replace with long tube headers, place new xpipe and sensors, tighten her down. Isnt that about it? PLEEEEZE tell me yes. My dealer wanted $500 or so to do this because it is "manifold" on their rate sheet. They are all good guys and very trustworthy, but I like to work on my own crap as much as possible! P.S., I know there are a million youtube videos out there, but I will take before and after videos also for sound purposes in case anyone would like to hear the differences.
Retired & lovin' it!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,475
Likes: 549
From: Jackson NJ
Working by yourself, it's likely a 5-6 hour job. But....I think you're going to need more clearance underneath than with only jackstands. I watched the install of AR headers in my '05 & the work was done from below.....I doubt there would be enough clearance for the long-tubes using just jackstands.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
I can remove the entire stock exhaust in about an hour. I can do the an ARH header install in a little under 3 hrs. (Ive done it a few times)
Give it a solid day and that stopping for a good lunch break.
Make sure that you have all the stuff. You really need a O2 sensor socket wrench or a really angled box end wrench to remove the O2 sensors from the exhaust manifolds. They live in a recessed well on the manifold. You will need primary and secondary O2 sensor extension harnesses I believe. I will send you some pictures later tonight that I took when I did mine on jack stands in the drive way.
MAKE SURE that you mark which rear after the cat harnesses go to what side of the exhaust. There very easy to get confused by the way that they run the harnesses.
BC
Give it a solid day and that stopping for a good lunch break.
Make sure that you have all the stuff. You really need a O2 sensor socket wrench or a really angled box end wrench to remove the O2 sensors from the exhaust manifolds. They live in a recessed well on the manifold. You will need primary and secondary O2 sensor extension harnesses I believe. I will send you some pictures later tonight that I took when I did mine on jack stands in the drive way.
MAKE SURE that you mark which rear after the cat harnesses go to what side of the exhaust. There very easy to get confused by the way that they run the harnesses.
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Feb 4, 2011 at 01:40 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 995
Likes: 2
From: Virginia Beach VA
Don't worry about time...
and relax & enjoy the pride in DIY. I did mine on jack stands in garage solo. I am competent, but I'm also meticulous & impatient, the latter 2 don't mix well. So don't shoot for a time, but rather a good time. It's tight in many areas & working on your back w/ everything less than a foot from your face can be frustrating, like when the socket you need is 6" inches from you, but you can't see/find it. I strongly suggest using a tray, I use an old oven pan, & w/o fail stick tools in when finished, you can burn up a lot of time & build a great deal of frustation looking for a tool you just had in your hand. Speaking of hands be careful, depending on the length of time & exposure to moisture, bolts may be tuff to get off, & nothing worse than busted knuckle wrench syndrome (hell, I keep bandaides & alcohol, for wounds, not for drinking, lol in garage) as I have lost a lot blood working on vehicles over the years. I strongly suggest not tightening anything more than necessary to hold in place, as alignment can be an issue, until your satisfied with fitment.
Most Important tips: Safety #1st (although I'm guilty of putting it about 9 or 10th)
1. Make sure car is completely stable once in air, not a bad idea to leave jack under X-member, or wood blocks, whatever, so if the unthinkable happens you're not pinned, lets face it crushed.
2. Lighting under car important, I know all you'll think I'm crazy but flurescent doesn't blind you & cast as many shadows.
3. Disconnect battery, obvious, often forgotten.
4. Take your time, you're not in a NASCAR pit.
5. Think methodically re: process, tools necessary, & accessibilty while car's in air vs. under car. (i.e. take exh. manifold bolts at head out before putting in the air, again, obvious, but often overlooked)
6. Turn off phone, one less distraction. The President or PMOY is not calling.
7. Most rec. reusing stock manifold gasket instead of ones supplied w/ header, & I agree. But LG are considered very high quality, thus may provide quality gaskets. Felt or paper type, toss.
8. I am always guilty of not using but clear glasses keeps sh.. out of your eyes.
9. Exh. manifold & cats will come out as unit. If I recall top & bottom, can't remember, but one way is way easier (someone chime in please) I think it may differ from one side to other. Drivers side top, pass. bottom (someone verify).
10. Give some thought to sensor wiring routing, especially before you tighten everything up, I used clips & attached to trans. tunnel plate to ensure they don't get burnt (strongly rec'd), also give thought to routing in engine bay same reason as well you want some play & one route gives play another will put stress on connections.
11. When you tighten pass. side header use something to wedge as far from fluid lines & starter, it's very tight, the more you can distance them the better. Lot's of heat not good for either.
12. Have something under car to keep pipes in place. I remember using hand on 1 end & foot on other, not optimal.
13. Protect anything you can scratch, if it can happen, it will. Fenders, socks over chrome tips, etc.
13. Then obvious mech. stuff, have anti-seize, liquid wrench, locktite, whatever you could possibly need. Biggest time killer is going to parts store 'cuz you forgot something.
14. Same goes for tools, pretty basic, a magnetic wand is always helpful for the nut, bolt, washer you dropped & can't get to.
15. Seperate trays for tools & nuts & bolts, huge time saver.
16. Alignment can be an issue, so pay attention as you go, & again tighten only enough to hold in place.
17. Torque wrench is your friend, especially given heads are aluminum, but there will be a couple bolts you probably won't be able get to. Just give firm pull (not white knuckle), maybe add 1/4- 1/2 turn.
18. Check for leaks by covering tips, you'll also notice water under the car were condensation comes out = leak.
Finally, if you get hungrey eat, if you get tired take a break, if you get frustrated STOP! You probably could have finished the job by the time it takes to read this, but there's a lot of obvious stuff often overlooked which make the job night/day easier. The mechanical side is pretty straight forward.
Most Important tips: Safety #1st (although I'm guilty of putting it about 9 or 10th)
1. Make sure car is completely stable once in air, not a bad idea to leave jack under X-member, or wood blocks, whatever, so if the unthinkable happens you're not pinned, lets face it crushed.
2. Lighting under car important, I know all you'll think I'm crazy but flurescent doesn't blind you & cast as many shadows.
3. Disconnect battery, obvious, often forgotten.
4. Take your time, you're not in a NASCAR pit.
5. Think methodically re: process, tools necessary, & accessibilty while car's in air vs. under car. (i.e. take exh. manifold bolts at head out before putting in the air, again, obvious, but often overlooked)
6. Turn off phone, one less distraction. The President or PMOY is not calling.
7. Most rec. reusing stock manifold gasket instead of ones supplied w/ header, & I agree. But LG are considered very high quality, thus may provide quality gaskets. Felt or paper type, toss.
8. I am always guilty of not using but clear glasses keeps sh.. out of your eyes.
9. Exh. manifold & cats will come out as unit. If I recall top & bottom, can't remember, but one way is way easier (someone chime in please) I think it may differ from one side to other. Drivers side top, pass. bottom (someone verify).
10. Give some thought to sensor wiring routing, especially before you tighten everything up, I used clips & attached to trans. tunnel plate to ensure they don't get burnt (strongly rec'd), also give thought to routing in engine bay same reason as well you want some play & one route gives play another will put stress on connections.
11. When you tighten pass. side header use something to wedge as far from fluid lines & starter, it's very tight, the more you can distance them the better. Lot's of heat not good for either.
12. Have something under car to keep pipes in place. I remember using hand on 1 end & foot on other, not optimal.
13. Protect anything you can scratch, if it can happen, it will. Fenders, socks over chrome tips, etc.
13. Then obvious mech. stuff, have anti-seize, liquid wrench, locktite, whatever you could possibly need. Biggest time killer is going to parts store 'cuz you forgot something.
14. Same goes for tools, pretty basic, a magnetic wand is always helpful for the nut, bolt, washer you dropped & can't get to.
15. Seperate trays for tools & nuts & bolts, huge time saver.
16. Alignment can be an issue, so pay attention as you go, & again tighten only enough to hold in place.
17. Torque wrench is your friend, especially given heads are aluminum, but there will be a couple bolts you probably won't be able get to. Just give firm pull (not white knuckle), maybe add 1/4- 1/2 turn.
18. Check for leaks by covering tips, you'll also notice water under the car were condensation comes out = leak.
Finally, if you get hungrey eat, if you get tired take a break, if you get frustrated STOP! You probably could have finished the job by the time it takes to read this, but there's a lot of obvious stuff often overlooked which make the job night/day easier. The mechanical side is pretty straight forward.
Last edited by Mike V.; Feb 5, 2011 at 05:29 PM.
Racer
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 361
Likes: 54
From: Woodland Park, Co
I can remove the entire stock exhaust in about an hour. I can do the an ARH header install in a little under 3 hrs. (Ive done it a few times)
Give it a solid day and that stopping for a good lunch break.
Make sure that you have all the stuff. You really need a O2 sensor socket wrench or a really angled box end wrench to remove the O2 sensors from the exhaust manifolds. They live in a recessed well on the manifold. You will need primary and secondary O2 sensor extension harnesses I believe. I will send you some pictures later tonight that I took when I did mine on jack stands in the drive way.
MAKE SURE that you mark which rear after the cat harnesses go to what side of the exhaust. There very easy to get confused by the way that they run the harnesses.
BC
Give it a solid day and that stopping for a good lunch break.
Make sure that you have all the stuff. You really need a O2 sensor socket wrench or a really angled box end wrench to remove the O2 sensors from the exhaust manifolds. They live in a recessed well on the manifold. You will need primary and secondary O2 sensor extension harnesses I believe. I will send you some pictures later tonight that I took when I did mine on jack stands in the drive way.
MAKE SURE that you mark which rear after the cat harnesses go to what side of the exhaust. There very easy to get confused by the way that they run the harnesses.
BC
I'm doing the same install next weekend too. LG long-tubes w/ cats and npp. Please send me the pics too. Thank you, Mark
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Tolero Apto Victum
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 9,669
Likes: 37
From: Woodlands TX
and relax & enjoy the pride in DIY. I did mine on jack stands in garage solo. I am competent, but I'm also meticulous & impatient, the latter 2 don't mix well. So don't shoot for a time, but rather a good time. It's tight in many areas & working on your back w/ everything less than a foot from your face can be frustrating, like when the socket you need is 6" inches from you, but you can't see/find it. I strongly suggest using a tray, I use an old oven pan, & w/o fail stick tools in when finished, you can burn up a lot of time & build a great deal of frustation looking for a tool you just had in your hand. Speaking of hands be careful, depending on the length of time & exposure to moisture, bolts may be tuff to get off, & nothing worse than busted knuckle wrench syndrome (hell, I keep bandaides & alcohol, for wounds, not for drinking, lol in garage) as I have lost a lot blood working on vehicles over the years. I strongly suggest not tightening anything more than necessary to hold in place, as alignment can be an issue, until your satisfied with fitment.
Most Important tips: Safety #1st (although I'm guilty of putting it about 9 or 10th)
1. Make sure car is completely stable once in air, not a bad idea to leave jack under X-member, or wood blocks, whatever, so if the unthinkable happens you're not pinned, lets face it crushed.
2. Lighting under car important, I know all you'll think I'm crazy but flurescent doesn't blind you & cast as many shadows.
3. Disconnect battery, obvious, often forgotten.
4. Take your time, you're not in a NASCAR pit.
5. Think methodically re: process, tools necessary, & accessibilty while car's in air vs. under car. (i.e. take exh. manifold bolts at head out before putting in the air, again, obvious, but often overlooked)
6. Turn off phone, one less distraction. The President or PMOY is not calling.
7. Most rec. reusing stock manifold gasket instead of ones supplied w/ header, & I agree. But LG are consider very high quality, thus may provide quality gaskets. Foam or paper type, toss.
8. I am always guilty of not using but clear glasses keeps sh.. out of your eyes.
9. Exh. manifold & cats will come out as unit. If I recall top & bottom, can't remember, but one way is way easier (someone chime in please) I think it may differ from one side to other. Drivers side top, pass. bottom (someone verify).
10. Give some thought to sensor wiring routing, especially before you tighten everything up, I used clips & attached to trans. tunnel plate to ensure they don't get burnt (strongly rec'd), also give thought to routing in engine bay same reason as well you want some play & one route gives play another will put stress on connections.
11. When you tighten pass. side header use something to wedge as far from fluid lines & starter, it's very tight, the more you can distance them the better. Lot's of heat not good for either.
12. Have something under car to keep pipes in place. I remember using hand on 1 end & foot on other, not optimal.
13. Protect anything you can scratch, if it can happen, it will. Fenders, socks over chrome tips, etc.
13. Then obvious mech. stuff, have anti-seize, liquid wrench, locktite, whatever you could possibly need. Biggest time killer is going to parts store 'cuz you forgot something.
14. Same goes for tools, pretty basic, a magnetic wand is always helpful for the nut, bolt, washer you dropped & can't get to.
15. Seperate trays for tools & nuts & bolts, huge time saver.
16. Alignment can be an issue, so pay attention as you go, & again tighten only enough to hold in place.
17. Torque wrench is your friend, especially given heads are aluminum, but there will be a couple bolts you probably won't be able get to. Just give firm pull (not white knuckle), maybe add 1/4- 1/2 turn.
18. Check for leaks by covering tips, you'll also notice water under the car were condensation comes out = leak.
Finally, if you get hungrey eat, if you get tired take a break, if you get frustrated STOP! You probably could have finished the job by the time it takes to read this, but there's a lot of obvious stuff often overlooked which make the job night/day easier. The mechanical side is pretty straight forward.
Most Important tips: Safety #1st (although I'm guilty of putting it about 9 or 10th)
1. Make sure car is completely stable once in air, not a bad idea to leave jack under X-member, or wood blocks, whatever, so if the unthinkable happens you're not pinned, lets face it crushed.
2. Lighting under car important, I know all you'll think I'm crazy but flurescent doesn't blind you & cast as many shadows.
3. Disconnect battery, obvious, often forgotten.
4. Take your time, you're not in a NASCAR pit.
5. Think methodically re: process, tools necessary, & accessibilty while car's in air vs. under car. (i.e. take exh. manifold bolts at head out before putting in the air, again, obvious, but often overlooked)
6. Turn off phone, one less distraction. The President or PMOY is not calling.
7. Most rec. reusing stock manifold gasket instead of ones supplied w/ header, & I agree. But LG are consider very high quality, thus may provide quality gaskets. Foam or paper type, toss.
8. I am always guilty of not using but clear glasses keeps sh.. out of your eyes.
9. Exh. manifold & cats will come out as unit. If I recall top & bottom, can't remember, but one way is way easier (someone chime in please) I think it may differ from one side to other. Drivers side top, pass. bottom (someone verify).
10. Give some thought to sensor wiring routing, especially before you tighten everything up, I used clips & attached to trans. tunnel plate to ensure they don't get burnt (strongly rec'd), also give thought to routing in engine bay same reason as well you want some play & one route gives play another will put stress on connections.
11. When you tighten pass. side header use something to wedge as far from fluid lines & starter, it's very tight, the more you can distance them the better. Lot's of heat not good for either.
12. Have something under car to keep pipes in place. I remember using hand on 1 end & foot on other, not optimal.
13. Protect anything you can scratch, if it can happen, it will. Fenders, socks over chrome tips, etc.
13. Then obvious mech. stuff, have anti-seize, liquid wrench, locktite, whatever you could possibly need. Biggest time killer is going to parts store 'cuz you forgot something.
14. Same goes for tools, pretty basic, a magnetic wand is always helpful for the nut, bolt, washer you dropped & can't get to.
15. Seperate trays for tools & nuts & bolts, huge time saver.
16. Alignment can be an issue, so pay attention as you go, & again tighten only enough to hold in place.
17. Torque wrench is your friend, especially given heads are aluminum, but there will be a couple bolts you probably won't be able get to. Just give firm pull (not white knuckle), maybe add 1/4- 1/2 turn.
18. Check for leaks by covering tips, you'll also notice water under the car were condensation comes out = leak.
Finally, if you get hungrey eat, if you get tired take a break, if you get frustrated STOP! You probably could have finished the job by the time it takes to read this, but there's a lot of obvious stuff often overlooked which make the job night/day easier. The mechanical side is pretty straight forward.
Great Post!!!