Coated vs. Non-Coated Headers....
02-05-2011, 07:07 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Coated vs. Non-Coated Headers....
On my 2003 Z06, I used Kooks non-coated headers. Looking to add headers to my 2010 GS. Should I go coated or not? Advantages and disadvantages of each? Lets get some knowledge from the CF wise men...
02-05-2011, 08:13 PM
#3
Drifting
I do not hear of many vette owners wrapping their headers, but I know an Evo owner and he can put his hand on his headers when car is at operation temp. I can't do that with my kooks ceramic coated. I really enjoy the kooks though.
02-06-2011, 08:27 AM
#5
Using hearder wrap on non coated headers is asking for an early rust issue especially if the car is driven in the rain. The wrap will retain moisture, and accelerate rust.
Coat them suckers and they may last the life of the car.
And, they do look purdy!
Coat them suckers and they may last the life of the car.
And, they do look purdy!
02-06-2011, 02:23 PM
#8
Race Director
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Hudson WI
Posts: 13,598
Received 181 Likes
on
162 Posts
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I like the look of coated headers, but the company that made my headers said I wasting my money. That being said, I may have them coated when I take the heads off, just because....
02-06-2011, 02:25 PM
#9
Team Owner
02-06-2011, 03:16 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
Winner!
This is the correct answer, but personal choice rules, no real benefit, but lotsa theoretical stuff re: lower under hood temp., effect on exh. gas temp, blah, blah, blah. Real world & no real diff., but if the extra $$$ doesn't bother you & you like the looks, knock yourself out. It surely won't adversely affect anything. My money is spent to make the rear of my car visable.
02-06-2011, 05:21 PM
#12
Race Director
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Hudson WI
Posts: 13,598
Received 181 Likes
on
162 Posts
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I have ceramic coated tunnel plate and it made a huge difference in cabin heat. Candy bars melted in the center console before headers and the plate, but they don't now.
02-06-2011, 05:37 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
Valid points
Last 2 post, I was speaking from a perf. perspective & longevity. Keeping things cooler in the cabin, hell anywhere, is a valid reason to coat. The proximatey to the starter & fluid lines on passenger side may be reason enough.
02-09-2011, 09:18 PM
#14
Drifting
02-10-2011, 01:51 PM
#15
Tech Contributor
Member Since: Dec 1999
Location: Anthony TX
Posts: 32,736
Received 2,180 Likes
on
1,583 Posts
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Most header manufactures will NOT warranty your headers (if they have a warranty) if you wrap them. It causes them to rot out prematurely (even stainless headers will rust 
) and cause the metal to get very brittle and crack in areas where the temps are excessively high (bends in the piping)
BC
) and cause the metal to get very brittle and crack in areas where the temps are excessively high (bends in the piping)BC
02-10-2011, 03:27 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
It is not necessary to coat a quality stainless steel header (Kooks, American Racing, or LG). If you get mild steel, then you should coat them.
To reduce heat, you really need to coat the inside of the tube and that is just not possible on todays long primary tube design. They can get the first 8 inches inside the primaries on each end, but nothing more. Additionally, long tube headers moves the cats to the mid pipe and you cannot coat the inside of the cats or you will contaminate the cataylist.
To reduce heat, you really need to coat the inside of the tube and that is just not possible on todays long primary tube design. They can get the first 8 inches inside the primaries on each end, but nothing more. Additionally, long tube headers moves the cats to the mid pipe and you cannot coat the inside of the cats or you will contaminate the cataylist.
02-10-2011, 03:56 PM
#17
Team Owner
Most header manufactures will NOT warranty your headers (if they have a warranty) if you wrap them. It causes them to rot out prematurely (even stainless headers will rust ) and cause the metal to get very brittle and crack in areas where the temps are excessively high (bends in the piping)
) and cause the metal to get very brittle and crack in areas where the temps are excessively high (bends in the piping)
Some might even say that coating them can potentially cause those same results as well...though if done correctly I don't see how any moisture can get in between the stainless steel and the coating.It is not necessary to coat a quality stainless steel header (Kooks, American Racing, or LG). If you get mild steel, then you should coat them.
To reduce heat, you really need to coat the inside of the tube and that is just not possible on todays long primary tube design. They can get the first 8 inches inside the primaries on each end, but nothing more. Additionally, long tube headers moves the cats to the mid pipe and you cannot coat the inside of the cats or you will contaminate the cataylist.
To reduce heat, you really need to coat the inside of the tube and that is just not possible on todays long primary tube design. They can get the first 8 inches inside the primaries on each end, but nothing more. Additionally, long tube headers moves the cats to the mid pipe and you cannot coat the inside of the cats or you will contaminate the cataylist.
02-10-2011, 05:31 PM
#18
Race Director
Not necessary to coat headers if quality SS. Ya coated looks good to some but I like the heat treated tubes myself. Got to look pretty hard to see them anyway after the hood is opened.
