You can't and you can't

There are two 10mm bolts that hold the slave cylinder on. Remove those and it will slide right off.

That tube that is broken comes included with a new slave cylinder. You're going to need one..

I'd replace the slave anyways while you have it apart.. way too much work to change later

Also check out the pilot bearing while it's apart

 

Great thread toooooooooooo bad the pictures on page one are not there.

 

Ugh that sucks, alright well I just bought a new slave cylinder from gm parts direct. So this will come with the hard hose I snapped and the soft hose I cut?

Also do you have any idea how to get this out:



This is the line that connects to the shifter box. In the service manual it seems like you use to punch and a hammer to get it out but I was hitting it really hard with the punch lined up and it wasn't coming out. Any ideas?

Also I've got this jack under my oil pan still is it cool to take it out? It said in the service manual that I would damage the fire wall if the engine wasn't supported but now that the driveline is removed can I remove it?



Thanks again this has been insanely helpful

 

It comes with the hose that runs from the slave all the way back to the big black connector that's near the master cylinder (only includes the slave half of the black connector..)

So yep, it will come with the whole shebang

Not to keep adding on parts.. but bleeding them is not fun without a remote bleeder, so that's something else to consider as well

 

Perfect, and yeah I got a remote bleeder as well so I'm good to go. Any ideas on getting thst pin out or if I can remove the floor jack from where I have it?

 

It'll be fine without the floor jack there. Use it during reassembly to help move the back of the motor up/down to help get everything aligned, but it won't go far with the jack removed.. so it's fine to remove it.

I've actually never had that pin out. I thought you'd just hit it with a punch too.. if you can't get it out I'd call RPM in the morning and see what they say

Have you tried hitting it from both sides? Not sure if it's just a straight pin or tapered or what.

 

I'm not sure I see the pin for the shifter rod in that pic. Should be further toward the trans. I'll look at the one I have in the garage tonight if I remember.

 

I think you're right. Remove the black rubber cover (towards transmission body) and see if there is a pin underneath that..

 

Oh I didn't realize that was a rubber piece covering that up. Definitely under there. Hopefully you didn't damage the u-joint banging on it. :O

 

Great write up. I am in the process of this myself. I have the entire drive train out of mine right now. Installing a new high perf engine and a few other gizmos and gadgets. so it just made sense to drop the whole thing. getting close to putting it back together. just waiting on a few odds and ends to arrive.

 

That's def the way to do it if you've got a lift.

 

Damn I hope not, I think it is probably fine.. didn't look like I broke anything and still seems to be working properly.

 

i have a new GM slave hanging around if you need one!

 

thought I would pass this along. I had a harbor freight 1000 lb hydraulic lift cart in my shop and I went and bought another one. this made putting the drive train back in much easier than using jacks and stands etc. wish I had thought of this when I removed it.

 

I'm pulling the driveline with an A6 and have a couple of questions.

Shifter linkage: Do I disconnect the linkage at the transmission on the driver's side? Is there something I need to disconnect inside the car under there shifter boot?

I'm thinking I can disconnect the transmission lines by the starter. Is this correct?

 

Assuming oil lines are similar to mine (z51 m6) then yes can disconnect lines near starter. These DO NOT unscrew. There are clips that hold them together. Remove clips. May have to remove some of the brackets that hold the lines to the torque tube

The lines are very stiff and tough to get off sometimes until the torque tube is on the way out further down the removal process

 

I saw the clips and can get to them easily. I figure a clamp on the rubber section of the trans. line to limit the amount of ATF that leaks out.

I'm still not sure on the shifter linkage. Looks like I can disconnect at the transmission.

 

For the shifter cable, disconnect it from the shift detent lever on the side of the transmission. To do this, pull the small tab in the middle of the white plastic cable end outwards to release the cable from the stud and pull the cable outwards off the detent lever. The bracket that holds the cable housing is clamped on the transmission bellhousing and will have to be removed anyways, so just disconnect it and let it hang clear.

You need to disconnect the transmission cooler lines from the side of the transmission. The two lines are joined by a common flange that is held into the side of the trans by a bolt that has to be removed and then just pull the lines outwards away from the transmission. This can be messy, so have some rags handy. Be careful to not damage or lose the small gasket that seals the lines to the trans casing. In the photo below, you can see where I put some red plastic caps over the end of the trans lines and pushed some small plastic plugs in the holes in the transmission, to keep oil in and dirt out.
You will also need to drop the tunnel plate and remove the bolts that clamp the transmission cooler lines to the torque tube to release the lines from the clamps. This has to be done so that the lines can be pulled down and to the side, out of the way, once you remove them from the transmission (as shown in the photo).

Note: This procedure is for when you are separating the transmission and converter from the torque tube and leaving the TT in the car.

 

I will be tackling a clutch job this next year. My stock clutch holds for now but I just added some new power goodies and I'm not to be nice to the old stock once I get my car tuned!