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Has anyone done dyno comparisons on the various manufacturer's long tube headers on the same engine? I'd be curious to see torque and HP results among ARH, LG, Kooks, Stainless etc. to see if there are significant differences.
From: Cape May, NJ; Guntersville, AL; Orange Beach, AL
You aren't going to tell by the butt dyno with any of the good brands (not sure you could tell from the knock offs either but fit and finish is important to me so I went wit LG). After a lot of reading I went with LG. I got a great price for them and will be installing them this weekend. From what I understand the LG's have a little more low end torque than others. I mean its what they use on their race team so I trust the product. Also their customer support is first class. I would be willing to bet they would all be within 5 HP of each other but unless you do it on the same car with exact conditions it would be pointless to do on 2 exact cars because they will vary in HP.
Last edited by gunterwalker; Mar 7, 2011 at 02:15 PM.
Don't forget to compare the joint or fittings.
Of the Big three. Two use a compression type fit.
One uses the slip fit!
I been buying headers way before I owned
a Corvette. The compression type is best. The other is/could be
trouble. As there is a lot of pressure at the collector. Slip fit can
come apart or leak much easier and can be hard to stop.
In the past this topic has created a lot of interest. I'm sure you can use the search feature and find volumes of good data. I also ended up buying LG pro series 1 3/4" headers because of the power under the curve they show compared to the other major players. The bottom line though is that you won't be able to tell the difference between them using the "butt dyno". Buy a set of the major players products, have your tuner do his, or her, thing and enjoy the flow.
Agreed, seat of the pants you will not see much difference performance wise between any of the reputable manufactures. On a dyno you may see a slight difference depending on tube length and what kind of care is done after fabrication cleaning up the ports and tubes from any welds. The biggest difference you are going to see is in how they are made.
We use 100% T304 stainless steel material throughout the entire header. Tubes are CNC mandrel bent. Flanges are 3/8" thick cut on one of two in house water jets. The entire header is then hand fabricated and tig welded. To finish we take and clean the inside of each tube from any burs for a smooth uninterrupted flow.
__________________
David Merkel
Marketing Dir.
Billy Boat Exhaust
I've dealt with many brands of C5 & c6 headers. They all dyno the same I think there is more variance in the engines than the tubes. They are not anywhere near the same as far as ease of install & future repairs. There is a brand that starts with a k making an engine swap a complete PIA for me rt now.
From: Cape May, NJ; Guntersville, AL; Orange Beach, AL
Originally Posted by SUB VETTE
Thoughts about slip-fit vs compression joints as mentioned above?
Unless you are taking your headers off every weekend I don't know whats wrong with the slip fit. Throw some anti-sieze on it when you put it on. I have the LG Super Pro's as well due a little more torque down low.
I agree you won't see much difference between any of the quality American made headers. I personally don't care for slip fit, especially at the collector. At this joint there is a lot of heat, vibration and thermal expansion. Some people get along fine with them, some have problems. I would have to guess it has to do more with the install than the design. I prefer the ball socket (compression fitting) at the collector. Two bolts, tighten it up and forget it. They don't leak and go together easily. If you ever need to take it apart years down the road, they disassemble without cuss words or missing skin.
At one time in the recent past someone posted pictures of headers made overseas. They had partially blocked passages at the flange because they use substandard machines to bend the tubing. The few pictures posted told the story loud and clear. They may copy an American companies product, but it is not the same. It's not even close. Good luck with your choice!
I did a little research and didn't find much difference in the major players for the headers when I decided on Kooks. I did find some difference in opinions for the X and H pipe cross over (advantage for the X pipe). And whether the cats were forward or aft of the cross over seemed to make a difference also.
Not sure if this is a dumb question or not but, if we're assuming that there is not much of a difference in performance from a dyno/hp perspective, can we also assume that the differences in sound are minimal as most of the sound comes from the actual exhaust/muffler set up? (I've got SLP II)
I am also interested in headers before the summer... (vendors feel free to PM me with prices and a sales pitch ) Thanks everyone!
Last edited by C7 Mathis; Mar 8, 2011 at 12:56 PM.
Don't forget to compare the joint or fittings.
Of the Big three. Two use a compression type fit.
One uses the slip fit!
I been buying headers way before I owned
a Corvette. The compression type is best. The other is/could be
trouble. As there is a lot of pressure at the collector. Slip fit can
come apart or leak much easier and can be hard to stop.
Yep I agree stay away from the slip fit nothing but problems down the road. I went with the Kooks 1-7/8" with 3" catted x-pipe
Unless you are taking your headers off every weekend I don't know whats wrong with the slip fit. Throw some anti-sieze on it when you put it on. I have the LG Super Pro's as well due a little more torque down low.
More prone to leak. (slip-fit) I had one come apart once and ruin my exhaust.The collector has the most pressure. The compression fit creates a super tight seal. You need to get yours installed!