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i really would take you up on the offer but i couldn't leave work on such a short short notice since i am the only guy lol. I would have to plan at least two weeks ahead. I very much appreciate the offer and would like to go back to Cali since i was born there. Azusa was my city though. I will for sure get the converter soon since it makes that much of a difference. what stall should i get?
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Originally Posted by Mattraffai
i really would take you up on the offer but i couldn't leave work on such a short short notice since i am the only guy lol. I would have to plan at least two weeks ahead. I very much appreciate the offer and would like to go back to Cali since i was born there. Azusa was my city though. I will for sure get the converter soon since it makes that much of a difference. what stall should i get?
For all out track performance go with the SS3600 from Yank, but if you want to maintain semi-decent street characteristics go with their 3200.
That can go one of a few different ways. If you get wheelspin with an A6 when you launch, depending on how bad it is the car will either shortshift on the 1-2 or bounce off the rev-limiter. My car generally short shifts but when I still had my LS2 it would hit the rev-limiter. What exactly dictates whether one or the happens I don't really know.
Tom will probably chime in here, but from what I remember he got pretty bad wheel spin, let up to try and get the car back under control and then erroneously put his foot back on the gas causing it to downshift and subquently over-rev.
The general rule of thumb with the A6 should be that if you have to take your foot off the gas completely to control the wheelspin then I would suggest just aborting the run. If however you only need to back off a bit but never remove your foot completely then you're usually okay to stay in it for the remainder of the run.
Yes, get out of it and stay out. My error (read that as stupidity) cost me a motor and a few weeks downtime, when I could have been racing.
I've probably aborted 10% of my runs due to excessive spin and should have aborted another 10% because of some spin. According to my logs, about half of the passes have detectable wheelspin that is not always noticed by me in the car.
Ouch! You may be in for an even bigger letdown than what I originally thought and the longer you wait the worse it's gonna get because the cooler season is pretty much already behind us.
To give you an idea of just how much your car may actually slow down, a 12.5@115MPH run made in an 1800ft DA would equate to 13.145@109MPH in a 5500ft DA or a 13.201 if it hits 5800ft (both of which occur pretty easily at SIR).
As such, not only may you end up running slower than before but you might even have trouble even into the 12's depending on bad the DA ends up being when you finally do make it back.
Originally Posted by LS1LT1
I assume that you didn't add Z06/Grand Sport brakes to the car as well?
If not, then you might not have added as much weight as was originally thought...though even just 20 pounds more on wheels and tires (I still think you might've added on a little more than that) can effect performance.
Originally Posted by Unreal
442 corrected or uncorrected HP? My car made ~440 actual up here and ran 11.7@122mph. Then again mine is a z06 so it will be lighter. That was 490RWHP SAE. If you actually made 442rwhp then bottom 12/high 11s maybe doable. If that is 442 corrected then good luck.
Originally Posted by thesubfloor
For all out track performance go with the SS3600 from Yank, but if you want to maintain semi-decent street characteristics go with their 3200.
So what would work better with my A6 only having a 2.56 rear gear
From: Brentwood World's first A6 in the 9's (including N/A, blower, turbo and nitrous cars) 9.950@139.267 CA
Originally Posted by Mattraffai
So what would work better with my A6 only having a 2.56 rear gear
With 2.56 gears a 3600 will feel a little loose on the street, in that you'll need to give it a little more gas than usual to get it moving. You will however probably get a full tenth more knocked off your ET than with a 3200 so it's really a personal choice. I have 3.42 gears so my 3600 is a perfect match but even if I had to go back to 2.56 gears again I would probably still stick with that same converter.
I have the 2.56 gears and Yank 3200 and feel it's weak sauce....wish I would've gone with the 3600 minimum or had a custom one built down here at Circle D (which I still might do).
Subfloor said it best...but you might want to throw up a new thread asking what stall to use with your setup.
I know my friend Theofel uses a 3600 yank on his a6 daily driver but I think he's got 3:15's.
Hoxxoh I think also has a 3600 one for his around the country driver, 70k miles last I knew!
Originally Posted by thesubfloor
With 2.56 gears a 3600 will feel a little loose on the street, in that you'll need to give it a little more gas than usual to get it moving. You will however probably get a full tenth more knocked off your ET than with a 3200 so it's really a personal choice. I have 3.42 gears so my 3600 is a perfect match but even if I had to go back to 2.56 gears again I would probably still stick with that same converter.
Presently using the 3600 at 82K miles. Installed it at 67K miles and yes it is quite a bit looser that a 3200. I had a 3200 in at 55K miles and it was real pleasant for the street, to the point of liking it better than the stock converter. My best 60' stock converter was 1.85, with the 3200 was 1.70, so far with the 3600 it's 1.57.
by the way the car "will not" do burnouts at all now with the bigger rims and nitto nt05 tires and it feels like new setup of rims/tires killed my car launches now. from a dead stop even with all my power my car barely goes forward on launch now as before 1st gear was uncontrollable and would spin like crazy and go sideways if i hit it from a stop or a roll. its also barley spins on the roll when going full pedal! yikes i didn't know those tires and rims would slow it down that much!! it seriously feel half a second or more slower now on my starts now with bigger tires
by the way the car "will not" do burnouts at all now with the bigger rims and nitto nt05 tires and it feels like new setup of rims/tires killed my car launches now. from a dead stop even with all my power my car barely goes forward on launch now as before 1st gear was uncontrollable and would spin like crazy and go sideways if i hit it from a stop or a roll. its also barley spins on the roll when going full pedal! yikes i didn't know those tires and rims would slow it down that much!!
What was your DA on those runs? 120mph seems very low for your power.
Edit- I saw you were in Arizono, so the mph is probably fine.
Anyway, your issue on the launch is because you're running a bigger aftermarket cam with the stock converter and it takes longer to get into your powerband. Having 335 NT05s on very heavy wheels is just compounding the problem.
I don't believe you when you say it can't do a burnout though. Roll the rears through some water and I GUARANTEE you will smoke them up as long as you want, but you probably don't need to do a burnout at all since you are rocking the stock converter.
Originally Posted by Mattraffai
it seriously feel half a second or more slower now on my starts now with bigger tires
What it feels like it's doing and what it's ACTUALLY doing are very different.
Your first post said your previous best 60' was 2.1 and now you went 2.0, so your launch improved.
Last edited by FloydSummerOf68; May 20, 2011 at 09:40 PM.
I have a 3200 here in Phoenix for a real good price, that'll cut at the very least .2 and probably closer to .4 off your time. It'll still drive real close to the stock feel, except you won't have the idle surge.
AirBusPilot is dead on. With your cam, the stock converter, and those larger tires, you're killing the launch.
You could pick it up on your way to Sacramento. I'll even buy you dinner at a easy off/on by IS 10. Take Friday off and leave next Thursday after work, arrive at Subfloor's place mid-day Friday to do the install.
Finish up Saturday morning and hit the track. Drive back on Sunday with an 11.5 or better timeslip and catch up on sleep Monday. It's only 850-900 miles and takes 12 hours. Piece of cake for a young guy like you.
Seems like a Yank 3600 and 3.42 Z06 axle is the way with an A6 2.56. That is what I have. I bet a Yank 3600/3.42 would feel like a different car compared to my stock 2.56. I would love to drive one.
What do you think my new time,speed,and 60ft should be? My car ran a best of 12.5@114.5 (2.10 60ft) and power was at that time 372hp and 358tq. Car is a 06 LS2 6 speed auto with z51 and had at the time intake,ported tb,stage 2 ported stock intake,b&b header+exhaust+x pipe,hp tuners tune.
Now i added a full zr1 body kit and added replica z06 rims and new 285x18 and 335x19 nitto NT05 tires for the exterior. Engine mods added were fast 102 ported intake,62lb fast injectors (spraying next year when i do 408 stroker),double roller chain,ported oil pump,trickflow 225cc cnc ported heads (not milled), cometic .40 head gaskets,edelbrock water pump,k tech pulley,comps cam .588/.586,222/224 112 lobe,arp bolts everywhere possible.
So with all the new goodies what should my time,speed, and 60ft should range between? my new dyno numbers are 442hp and 422tq on a dynojet in Tucson Az bad weather
I can't image your time not improving simply by adding the extra grip.... I see several comments that you may LOSE time because of the extra tire wheel weight, but the bottom line is if you WERE running 285's in the back, they will just NOT hook up like they need to to be able to put even a STOCK level hp to the pavement. the extra 3 inches of fiberglass should hardly be anymore added weight than a thanksgiving dinner....... nothing a good ole, #2 bathroom visit can't fix!!!!
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