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Wats up my vette peeps....got a c6 and main goal is to reach a minimum of 600 ponies. Vette has manual tranny, NPP exhaust, LG long tubes, K&N , and diablo tune on hand. Looking to work on head and cam. Should i keep stock ls3 head and port them? Any suggestions...
Wats up my vette peeps....got a c6 and main goal is to reach a minimum of 600 ponies. Vette has manual tranny, NPP exhaust, LG long tubes, K&N , and diablo tune on hand. Looking to work on head and cam. Should i keep stock ls3 head and port them? Any suggestions...
If I was you I would get someone that knows what they are doin to just go ahead and port my heads. But you are goin to need alot more to get to 600hp is that 600 motor hp or at the wheels??
Wats up my vette peeps....got a c6 and main goal is to reach a minimum of 600 ponies. Vette has manual tranny, NPP exhaust, LG long tubes, K&N , and diablo tune on hand. Looking to work on head and cam. Should i keep stock ls3 head and port them? Any suggestions...
600hp at the crank is possible with a true (ie: stock bottom end) heads & cam package, but not at the wheels. You will likely have to lose that Diablo hand held and go with some real (HP Tuners or EFI Live) dyno tuning as well.
If I were doing heads & cam on an LS3 I would likely stay with the stock heads and have them ported/polished...though the new TFS LS3 heads do look somewhat promising as well.
Maybe give Cartek Racing a call (www.cartekracing.com - 908-317-4496), they've built some truly fast heads & cam cars over the years and will be able to get you set up with a strong package.
600 at the wheels is the goal. Elliotports suggested porting the stock heads and adding a comps cam. What cam specs would i be looking for to make the most out of the cam and head package?
From: Cape May, NJ; Guntersville, AL; Orange Beach, AL
600 HP (not RWHP) is going to be a tall order without FI on a pretty much stock bottom end LS3. With H/C/I only and wanting 600 HP I would imagine the drivability would be terrible. I have been in a 525 RWHP car that was NA and its drivablilty was very rough.
For what you want get a SUPERCHARGER. To get the power you want NA you will have to drop some serious $$$$$$. I would guess you would be upwards of $15k+ with the new engine and all the parts and labor. Is there any reason you don't want to go the FI route?
Last edited by gunterwalker; Apr 17, 2011 at 09:12 PM.
From: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
Originally Posted by rjz51
600 at the wheels is the goal. Elliotports suggested porting the stock heads and adding a comps cam. What cam specs would i be looking for to make the most out of the cam and head package?
No head/cam package in the world will do that on a stock bottom end LS3. You need to either stroke it, or get a supercharger.
What cam specs would i be looking for to make the most out of the cam and head package?
Some very very BIG ones LOL ...but even the biggest cam that can fit in there won't yield you 600 to the wheels on a stock shortblock LS3. The upper limit is likely 540-550rwhp and even that might come with some somewhat harsh street manners.
You might want to consider a stroker crank and all of the other supporting internals and shoot for 416+ cubic inches, that will help you reach your goal with far less sacrifice in drivability as well.
Originally Posted by PowerLabs
No head/cam package in the world will do that on a stock bottom end LS3. You need to either stroke it, or get a supercharger.
Big Cam and Nitrous is what I would do to get an LS3 car over 600rwhp.
500rwhp on motor for the days you're picking up groceries and 650+ on command when you want to turn up some pavement at the track.
I wouldn't waste time with a heads/cam setup if the goal was to break 600rwhp. Cam + Nitrous or Forced Induction are your most practical options. The Cam/Nitrous setup would certainly be the cheapest and probably half the cost of the Forced Induction setup. Nitrous fills don't get that expensive, because most people don't run through but 1-2 bottles a month if they're using it a lot. I generally only went through 1 bottle a month on my Firebird because I was only spraying at the track.
A big stroker build with a nasty heads/cam setup could do it, but for the cost involved I'd rather go one of the other routes.
Last edited by FloydSummerOf68; Apr 18, 2011 at 09:15 AM.
Your best bet for 600 rwhp and a car that is still worth driving is to go forced induction. We have lots of customers running around this way and having loads of fun. Give me call and I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have.
In my opinion yes. Its the easiest way to get major HP out of these cars. I think its worth the risk but only you can answer that question.
Originally Posted by MR Z
Your best bet for 600 rwhp and a car that is still worth driving is to go forced induction. We have lots of customers running around this way and having loads of fun. Give me call and I'll be happy to answer any questions you may have.
Shawn
Originally Posted by Bls8195
What does forced induction intel? Cost vs a supercharger?
Does a supercharger tear the car up rather quickly?
I will be looking you guys up in Jan when I get back from Afgan and have some spending money. Me and the wife will have to drive down drop the car off and get a rental and do a little vacation there while we wait for the SC to be put on. Be seeing ya soon.
I will be looking you guys up in Jan when I get back from Afgan and have some spending money. Me and the wife will have to drive down drop the car off and get a rental and do a little vacation there while we wait for the SC to be put on. Be seeing ya soon.
What does forced induction intel? Cost vs a supercharger?
Does a supercharger tear the car up rather quickly?
An old saw in performance:
You have the choice of any two of: fast, reliable and cheap.
Put another way: Which ever of the two you pick, together they will define the third as unachievable.
What are your goals? That will define your choices.
FI can be dead stone reliable, or it can grenade a motor in short order. How much you spend for quality parts, labor and know-how and how much power you try to get out of your set-up will determine how reliable.
A friend has a Grand Sport and he has a Maggie at 7.5 psi boost, long tubes, mild cam, magnaflow 3" all the way back and a conservative tune for 91 octane. He has 603 whp. Car drives like stock. The only thing he needs is a larger radiator as it will get hot on a hot day stuck in traffic, and the A/C shuts down.