SG4206

I pulled the gas pedal assembly out to install a new alum. one to match the brake and clutch pedals. Upon inspection of this unit , I noticed a phillips head eccentric at the stop postition of the pedal arm. Can anyone comfirm that this will adjust the pre-load or slack felt in the pedal movement?
My car has always had a slight movement in the pedal before engine response.

AmmoVet

I did the same thing and noticed it. I thought it might allow a bit more pedal play (potentiometer play) and therefor a bit more speed a top end. Curios to see what the experts say.

BEZ06

I've put Elite Engineering accelerator pedals on all three of the C6's I've owned, and I've never noticed any screw that offers any ability to adjust anything on the pedal.

I also looked in my '06 and '10 Service Manuals and there's absolutely no mention of anything that can be adjusted on the pedal.

I'm not sure what you're looking at, but it might just be the screw that holds the APP sensor (Accelerator Pedal Position sensor - there are actually 2 of them: APP1 and APP2) to the pedal.

So.....I don't believe that there is anything that you can adjust, and if there is I don't recommend messing with it. If you need to adjust some throttle parameter like idle, you need to tune the ECM.

The stock throttle response is really crappy - I've had a lot of lag on all three of the C6's I've owned.

On my '05 Coupe I tuned it with a Predator and the improvement in throttle response was one of the best things from the tune.

For my '06 Z06 I used LS1Edit to tune the car, and again the quicker throttle response was one of the best features of the tune.

With a tune, you can adjust the throttle tip-in to make the throttle come on a lot quicker. And of course a tune can improve power on even a stock engine - I think the forum wisdom is probably 10 or 15 hp increase from a tune even without any other mods.

However, because a tune might possibly void the warranty, I haven't yet tuned my '09 ZR1. But, the throttle response was really lousy, and I really wanted to improve it.

I got a SprintBooster unit and it really perked up the throttle to what I wanted. It's not cheap, but cheaper than getting the car tuned, but you don't get the other benefits of a tune, but you won't possibly void the warranty either.

Bob

AmmoVet

I only noticed it because I removed the pedal and bracket from under the dash. I tried to remove just the pin like other folks have done here but someone posted a while back to just drop the entire pedal and bracket. Made the job much easier.

BEZ06

I've done it both ways.

Removing the entire pedal assembly makes it easy, but if you know how to push the pin out with a C-clamp and socket then it's very easy doing the job without removing the pedal assembly.

Either way, the upgrade to a nice aluminum pedal is worth the few minutes it takes to install it:




Mine in the picture above is the EE heel-n-toe pedal - it's wider to allow better heel-n-toeing when downshifting.

I've got their matching aluminum dead pedal.

Bob

SG4206

Since no one knows really what this screw might do ; I'm going to pull it out and see if it will turn. I remember the other end of the shaft having a riveted looking head; so this might spin. Probably won't get to it until this weekend.

Tikiman12

why would the position of the pedal matter, its electronic. when you push the pedal down it does not pull a wire like on older style cars. Thus if you Stab the pedal to the floor the car reacts different then if you compress the pedal to the floor. You want that instant power, Stab the pedal

SG4206

I don't think you understand my problem. My gas pedal has a dead spot at the beginning of the stroke. This makes an irratating feel, during normal take off from a dead stop.

Fast starts are no problem , like you say ; stab the pedal.

If this screw doesn't function as an adjustment ; I will figure out some kind of shim to fix my problem.

AmmoVet

BEZ06,
Is that the switch for your NPP/Z06 valves on the dead pedal? I did the exact same thing with mine.

BEZ06

Good eye!!!

Yep - I went with the "old school" push-button switch for my 2009.

For my 2006 I have the wireless remote. It has the early visor and the buttons are very easy to program - and I programmed the visor buttons to operate the valves.

The new visor is harder to program. I think there's a wireless valve controller that will allow you to program the newer visor buttons, but I went with the push-button, and I really like it!!

Bob

KENS80V

Here's a couple of pictures of the cam in question.....

AmmoVet

Note that the center of the philips head slots are off center so the screw acts as a cam to adjust something, what we don't know? Anyone.

SG4206

This is interesting - your pic shows the pedal up on part of the cam. My pedal from the factory , is on lowest spot of the cam.

Z51LS3

My car does this too sometimes. Did you ever figure it out?

KENS80V

The eccentric cam is for adjusting the voltage output. It is set at a predetermined range from the factory. It has nothing to do with the mechanical performance of the pedal.

Z51LS3

What does it control again?

KENS80V

Setting the base voltage output of the pedal. Each pedal assembly is different. This eccentric cam allows them all to be adjusted within a certain value.

Z51LS3

ahh i see. So it wouldnt have anything to do with how soon the pedal begins to change voltage then? (The initial Dead space)