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I just ordered a set of Carbotech Bobcat 1521 pads for my 2011 Grand Sport. Then I read the following on Carbotech's FAQ:
If you have had another manufacturers brake pads on those same rotors; then you will ABSOLUTELY have to replace or resurface (turn) those rotors before installing the Carbotech brake pads.
Say what? My car has ~1,000 miles on it. Just how important is it to remachine the almost-new rotors? Will light hand sanding suffice?
If Carbotech's admonition is important, is this true of all pads, or just Carbotech's?
There's a Carbotech guy here who probably know better but unless you plan to track the car, I'd try running them normally on the street for 500 mi before performing the bedding process.
The bedding process embeds a thin layer of the pad on the rotor so the rotor needs to be clean metal before doing this. If you do it right, you can actually see it on the rotor.
Light street driving hopefully will remove any deposits from the previous OEM metallic pad, especially if you haven't driven hard the first 1,000 mi.
I find when not spending time on the track, I have to repeat the bedding process every 500 mi to prevent squealing.
I've also seen using a flex hone rotor burnish tool recommended over turning the rotors but it should really be done with the rotor off the car in a controlled manner.
Last edited by StKnoWhere; May 20, 2011 at 07:31 PM.
I have a vague memory of Adam mentioning that before but I'm not sure of the context. Here's Adam's phone, you should probably just call him and talk about it.
I have a vague memory of Adam mentioning that before but I'm not sure of the context. Here's Adam's phone, you should probably just call him and talk about it.
I just ordered a set of Carbotech Bobcat 1521 pads for my 2011 Grand Sport. Then I read the following on Carbotech's FAQ:
If you have had another manufacturers brake pads on those same rotors; then you will ABSOLUTELY have to replace or resurface (turn) those rotors before installing the Carbotech brake pads.
Say what? My car has ~1,000 miles on it. Just how important is it to remachine the almost-new rotors? Will light hand sanding suffice?
If Carbotech's admonition is important, is this true of all pads, or just Carbotech's?
You will be ok, just clean them up a bit with light hand sanding and bed in the new pads. you will be fine not a big deal.
I just ordered a set of Carbotech Bobcat 1521 pads for my 2011 Grand Sport. Then I read the following on Carbotech's FAQ:
If you have had another manufacturers brake pads on those same rotors; then you will ABSOLUTELY have to replace or resurface (turn) those rotors before installing the Carbotech brake pads.
Say what? My car has ~1,000 miles on it. Just how important is it to remachine the almost-new rotors? Will light hand sanding suffice?
If Carbotech's admonition is important, is this true of all pads, or just Carbotech's?
While Adam has already spoken, another perfectly acceptable way to go is to use a Flex-Hone. I prefer that method over sandpaper as a Flex-Hone really doesn't remove any iron. It leaves the rotor with a perfect surface, swirled and ready for bedding.
From: Austin, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Houston, Dallas, Hong Kong, Elgin, etc.. Texas
Originally Posted by carbotech adam
You will be ok, just clean them up a bit with light hand sanding and bed in the new pads. you will be fine not a big deal.
While there are concerns that sanding will removal brake rotor iron, you would have to sand for hours to remove any measurable material. I've sanded rotors with a orbital sander and 80 grit with positive results to eliminate brake noises.
Even if you have the rotors turned, which is not necessary, sand the rotors.
After sanding, make sure you wash the rotors off with soap and water followed by commercial brake clean spray. This will remove any oils from handling the rotors and sand paper grit.
While there are concerns that sanding will removal brake rotor iron, you would have to sand for hours to remove any measurable material. I've sanded rotors with a orbital sander and 80 grit with positive results to eliminate brake noises.
Since it only takes .002-.003" to eff up a rotor, and it only takes moments with 80 grit to do (which I've had happen), using sandpaper is an unnecessarily risky technique. Anyone using sandpaper on racing rotors would be instantly fired from a pit crew. Even for street cars, a Flex-Hone or Scotch-Brite are the way to go.
Since it only takes .002-.003" to eff up a rotor, and it only takes moments with 80 grit to do (which I've had happen), using sandpaper is an unnecessarily risky technique. Anyone using sandpaper on racing rotors would be instantly fired from a pit crew. Even for street cars, a Flex-Hone or Scotch-Brite are the way to go.
Chris
get real.........
I have used sandpaper on rotors for over 20 years without a problem. I have also used 80 grit Roloc discs on a rotor to give it a non directional finish without a problem.
I have used sandpaper on rotors for over 20 years without a problem. I have also used 80 grit Roloc discs on a rotor to give it a non directional finish without a problem.
The difference would be if your using the disc in an 800rpm drill motor or a 12,000 rpm high speed. An 80 grit disk in a high speed will take off .002-.003 in seconds.
I have used sandpaper on rotors for over 20 years without a problem. I have also used 80 grit Roloc discs on a rotor to give it a non directional finish without a problem.
And I've seen 80 grit finishes for over 20 years, including under laboratory magnification before and after brake dyno testing. May work for you, but I'll pass.