Friends,
A while back I put an aggressive "puck" style clutch in my car (long boring story.) The clutch chattered like a magpie. I tried to put up with it because the vendor said it would smooth out as it broke in. Several thousand miles later I changed out for a less aggressive full disk kevlar clutch...but.....

I now hear lots of rattle and knocking in the drive line (sounds like a rock tumbler) AND I still have a fair amount of chatter in what is supposed to be a chatter-proof clutch. I suspect my torque tube couplers may have been torn up a bit by the abuse the first clutch put on them (when it would chatter the whole car would quake violently)...but i don't know how to tell if the torque tube is healthy.

So here are my questions and thoughts..

1. Can sloppy couplers in the torque tube cause symptoms that feel like clutch chatter? I'm wondering if maybe the clutch is fine and the couplers are the problem?

2. Could engine or tranny mounts get sloppy without tearing and allow excessive drive train movement? The shifter wiggles like crazy when the clutch chatters.

3. Are there any good threads (I have not found any) on torque tube rebuild? I have no idea of what tools and parts may be needed.

4. If I go forward and come to a stop, put it in reverse, then as I let out the clutch there is a pretty easy to hear metallic "clack" that sounds like slop being taken up in the drive train. Is this normal? I don't remember the car having this before, but its been a while since I changed the clutch.

Thanks for your responses.

-Dale

 

No personal experience so all I can do is pass on what I've seen on the Forum......but it does sound like a torque tube issue. Are thinking about doing the work yourself? Best of luck.

Just some discussions that may help:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...-question.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ube-noise.html


A post excerpted from a great trans rebuild thread in C5 that I saved:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1567912008-post43.html

 

More than likely its the pilot bearing and was probably damaged on the clutch install and has been coming apart ever since.

Phil

 

i had a vibration in my drive train about a month ago and decided to rebuild the torque tube and went with a mcleod twin disc while i had it apart. now for the torque tube you will need the rebuild kit which i got from rpm transmissions about $350.00 for this then you need to take out 3 snap rings that hold the drive shaft in place in the t/t. then ( you need a large set of ring pliers as the last snap ring is about 4 inches and has a good amount of tension. once there off you just pic the t/t up and tap it on a 2 by 4, and the drive line will slide out, you will also need to press the new bearings in place there are 3 with 2 couplers. i did not see much difference in between the new couplers compared to the old, but 1 bearing was moving kinda awkard. all in all cost me about 1500.00 and peace of mind no more drive train vibe. good luck

 

If you're saying that your shifter moves a lot then you might have bad motor mounts. Start the car and rev the engine a few times. If the shifter rocks side to side more than an inch then that's bad. Another way to check is take the car for a little drive. In first gear give a few WOT pulls and if you see the same thing then its your motor mounts for sure. I never knew my motor mounts were shot will I took them off and replaced them with PFADT units. Shifter barely even moves now.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.
I've watched the clutch get changed out on my car twice, so I think I could do it myself. Its a lot of work, but not rocket science by any stretch. The main thing that might force me to get it done instead of doing it myself is I don't have access to a lift and I am having big doubts about trying to do it on the floor of my garage with tall jack stands. Its just hard to pay over 1K in labor for a 1 to 2 day job.

Sounds like I should just go ahead and rebuild the TT while its torn apart. Thanks for the insight into what it will take to do this part of the job.

-Dale

PS I also think I will probably replace the engine and tranny mounts while its all apart, but man the bill just keeps getting bigger. A few 100 here and there and eventually we're talking big real money.

 

In case you haven't seen this thread it might help you figure out if you can do it yourself.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ion-4-0-a.html

 

I rebuilt my TT n my garage on jack stands with no previous experience on a vette. Not difficult at all using some of the write-ups provided on the forum. These guys are extremely thorough in the write-ups. No real surprises, just take pics along the way to ensure you have all wiring and plumbing routed correctly during reassembly. PM me if you want to talk further since it's still fresh in my head.

Sean

 

Im in the same boat. Im rounding up the supplies for my rebuild.

TT Rebuild Kit from ECC - Bushings and Bearings

While im in there.....
Updated 09 and up shifter assy
Slave with remote bleeder
Pilot Bearing
ARP F/W and Pressure Plate bolts.

Im still thinking which clutch and flywheel im going to go with. Maybe an LS7 maybe aftermarket.

Ive done a bit of research on here and printed out a few posts documenting the process. Heres some tools you may need for the job.

Pilot Bearing Puller/Remover
Metric Wobbles
13/16ths deep
24MM Socket
Snap Ring Pliers
9’’ Ring Pliers

I saw a thread a while back, maybe it was my thread, I dunno. Anyways someone posted this link. Very helpful.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...kit/index.html

Im going to tackle this in about a month on my vacation. I just need to pick a clutch dammit!

 

For the most part that article is correct about how to get to the clutch. However one part that describes that the GM manual says to lower the engine cradle doesn't need to be done isn't correct. You "can" do it their way, but you risk damaging some aluminum AC and Heather tubes that are in the way to get to the bellhousing bolts. All you need to do is it unscrew the cradle retainer nuts to their lowest position, then you can easily get to the bolts with a deep 13mm wobble.

Also when I drop the torque tube, I separate the cradle from the differential. Then I drop the transaxle, and tube as a complete assembly. I have a rack and a great transmission jack with the GM adapter on it so it makes my job a lot easier. Trying to wrestle the complete transaxle and tube out without the GM adapter or something like it would be scary as the transmission isn't what one would call flat on the bottom where it would rest securely on a jack plate, and you need to lift it at the transmission because that is the balance point.

Here is what it looks like on my transmission jack:



Depending on your mods, a stock car can just use the factory replacement LS2/7 clutch. Its a decent clutch for the money. And works fine even with some drag strip use. A excellent clutch is the ZR1 clutch being offered by Katech and LPE. That unit will handle just about anything you can throw at it and feel like a stock clutch.

 

I bought a transmission adapter from Auto Zone for ~$45 and fitted it to a standard hydraulic jack. With this, you are able to drop the entire assembly together, suspension and all. This would save you significant time for R/R. Remember, the less stuff you take apart, the less stuff that has the potential of breaking at re-assembly...

If you do choose this route, it only takes about 17-20 bolts (excluding the center console/shifter) ot get the assembly out plus applicable electrical connectors. If I had to do it over again, I could have the clutch out in about 4 hrs once the car is on stands

 

Don't for get the tunnel plate... +300 bolts to get that thing off.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I've seen the procedure done twice, so sometimes I think.."not that bad...I can do it." Then other times I think.."man it would be nice if someone else would that for me.

 

Very helpful post. If I may...I recommend you use one of the flavors of ZR1 clutch available. I've had two LS7 clutches in my car and I don't like the way the pressure plate goofs up and causes pedal/feel issues. The ZR1 can be had in weights close to stock or a bit lighter. Zip has the lowest price on a version of this clutch with steel flywheel. The Katech costs about 200 more, but you get a light weight aluminum flywheel.

-D

 

I just got my cradle out today. Kinda taking my time, no rush here as the clutch is in the mail still

I wasnt comfortable taking it out as one. I dont have a good tranny jack either. Plus im on 4 jack stands.

The cradle part was easy. My diff mounts look good. I did find one broke lowering bolt though.

Im going to pull the diff and the tranny piece by piece. Since this is my first time I feel more comfortable that way because I can see how everything goes together. Its a few extra steps but I have to break the tranny off of the TT anyways for the rebuild.