Service Ride Control?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 212
Likes: 1
From: Dallas TX
Service Ride Control?
On my 2011 Grand Sport, I've gotten a DIC warning that says "Service ride control" and "158 mph maximum speed" along with an occasional "Service electrical system" message. There are no hard codes set.
A sorta wild guess is that the ride control issue started when the car was on my lift -- all wheels off ground -- and I cranked it up a few times in the process of finishing an E-force installation.
We did make one mistake when reinstalling the wires after the blower installation.
We connected the main +12 wire from the alternator to the wrong solenoid terminal, which meant (I think) that the alternator output went straight to ground. I don't know what actually happened, since I don't know what the voltage regulator would have instructed the alternator to do in this situation. But it's possible that this messed up something in the electrical system that's showing up as the DIC messages.
The car does nothing strange, just the DIC messages. I can reset them with the reset button, but they always come back on in 10 minutes.
Dealer was perplexed and took the "Hmmm...it's got aftermarket stuff...we dunno." position.
Any ideas? Thanx, guys!
A sorta wild guess is that the ride control issue started when the car was on my lift -- all wheels off ground -- and I cranked it up a few times in the process of finishing an E-force installation.
We did make one mistake when reinstalling the wires after the blower installation.
We connected the main +12 wire from the alternator to the wrong solenoid terminal, which meant (I think) that the alternator output went straight to ground. I don't know what actually happened, since I don't know what the voltage regulator would have instructed the alternator to do in this situation. But it's possible that this messed up something in the electrical system that's showing up as the DIC messages.The car does nothing strange, just the DIC messages. I can reset them with the reset button, but they always come back on in 10 minutes.
Dealer was perplexed and took the "Hmmm...it's got aftermarket stuff...we dunno." position.
Any ideas? Thanx, guys!
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,023
Likes: 266
From: San Jose California
It's hard to believe that the DIC is posting messages and the car is limiting your top speed (158??!!) without any DTCs being set. Have you actually attached a code reader to the car and got nothing? That would, indeed, be odd. (Of course, this assumes that the reader would understand proprietary ride control DTC values.)
If you are using a third party reader I'd take it to the dealer and have them use the Tech2 to pull the codes and print them out for you (mine will do that, anyway.) With the codes in hand there are a very limited set of things that can be wrong in this system.
Z//
If you are using a third party reader I'd take it to the dealer and have them use the Tech2 to pull the codes and print them out for you (mine will do that, anyway.) With the codes in hand there are a very limited set of things that can be wrong in this system.
Z//
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,037
Likes: 9,799
From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
The ECM will tell the IPC to display the Service Electrical System if it sees a problem in the alternator output. This pretty much tells you that the alternator has a problem that may be related to your grounding its output.
There is at least one Electrical System code that will also affect the Ride Control system that is C0895. What do your system voltages look like? Here is the diagnostic for that code:
You do know you just can't hook any old code reader up to read the codes? Ride control codes can only be read by sophisticated scan tools, the ones like Auto Zone and Advance Auto use will not be able to read those codes if they exist. The dealer's Tech II or ones like AutoEnginuity can read the ride control codes. You will also need to follow the proper diagnostic procedure for the car. One other thing about your mods, do they have any electrical connections to +12V that are connected at any other place than the battery positive terminal? If so disconnect them and see what happens.
Not sure what mods you have but a Forced Induction mod shouldn't invalidate the warranty on the ride control electronics since the two things aren't connected.
Bill
There is at least one Electrical System code that will also affect the Ride Control system that is C0895. What do your system voltages look like? Here is the diagnostic for that code:
You do know you just can't hook any old code reader up to read the codes? Ride control codes can only be read by sophisticated scan tools, the ones like Auto Zone and Advance Auto use will not be able to read those codes if they exist. The dealer's Tech II or ones like AutoEnginuity can read the ride control codes. You will also need to follow the proper diagnostic procedure for the car. One other thing about your mods, do they have any electrical connections to +12V that are connected at any other place than the battery positive terminal? If so disconnect them and see what happens.
Not sure what mods you have but a Forced Induction mod shouldn't invalidate the warranty on the ride control electronics since the two things aren't connected.
Bill
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
Likes: 2,106
From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I've had those strange DIC messages a couple times along with several others, twice when my alternator died and once when the battery had an intermittent short.
As a first thing I'd do, is disconnect the battery and charge it fully. While it's charging, check (retighten) every ground you may have disturbed during the blower install. If this reset procedure didn't cure the problem, or did only temporarily, try borrowing a friend's alternator and/or battery for a while. Those intermittent electrical problems are hard to spot, so swapping to known good items is an easy method to eliminate or find the most likely suspects.
Please report back what the cure was.
As a first thing I'd do, is disconnect the battery and charge it fully. While it's charging, check (retighten) every ground you may have disturbed during the blower install. If this reset procedure didn't cure the problem, or did only temporarily, try borrowing a friend's alternator and/or battery for a while. Those intermittent electrical problems are hard to spot, so swapping to known good items is an easy method to eliminate or find the most likely suspects.
Please report back what the cure was.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta GA
Well, the Edelbrock instructions are rather crappy when it comes to moving the rack for crank pinning (cam and crank pinning in my case). The instructions tell you that the cradle can be lowered and the rack pulled out on the driver's side after the ride height sensor and brake lines have been unbolted from the driver's side cradle. I'm not sure what car they were working on when they wrote those instructions, but the rack was definitely not going out on the driver's side so unbolting the sensor and moving it was a waste of time. Moving the sensor probably messed up it's positioning and from what I can find a "position relearn" needs to be completed using a TECH II.
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