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Trans Cooler install help

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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 10:06 AM
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Default Trans Cooler install help

I've never installed a trans cooler on a car before, so I'm looking for someone to help me out here.

How do one of these things go in?

Does the cooler come with lines/fittings for the install?

Any help is greatly appreciated, because I have no idea with this install. I'll be picking up a cooler this weekend to put it in.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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Ok, so after some searching I have the basic understanding down.

Radiator out will go to Cooler in and Cooler out will go to Trans In

What size fitting do I need to be able to run a hose from Radiator out?
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 03:24 PM
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I was thinking of putting in a trans cooler in my 6spd. I was actually going to bypass the radiator and run just the cooler. IMO this will help the radiator stay cooler by not having hot trans fluid running thru it. Same goes for the engine cooler.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Sparo2
I was thinking of putting in a trans cooler in my 6spd. I was actually going to bypass the radiator and run just the cooler. IMO this will help the radiator stay cooler by not having hot trans fluid running thru it. Same goes for the engine cooler.
I am considering adding a cooler as well. I have read several posts not to bypass the radiator because it will keep the radiator from warming the transmission fluid in cold weather. I am also considering insulating the exhaust pipes as they pass by the transmission & cooler lines. They are very close.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 03:57 PM
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Good point there. In real cold climates that might be necessary but around here it never gets that cold. Besides, when the car is cold I don't go past 3K until the car is fully warmed up.
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Sparo2
I was thinking of putting in a trans cooler in my 6spd. I was actually going to bypass the radiator and run just the cooler. IMO this will help the radiator stay cooler by not having hot trans fluid running thru it. Same goes for the engine cooler.
That's how HP Sales installed mine. They told me the reason was exactly as you just stated.
Jeff
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Old Jul 13, 2011 | 06:41 PM
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My '07 A6 coupe (435+ rwhp) has the trans cooler on the return side to trans.
Trans. to radiator to cooler to trans. is the routing I used. You can do a search for the proper fittings from radiator to cooler, I don't remember what my tuner used, you can also cut return line, flare it and slip hose and clamp it (use A/C clamp it holds better) route to cooler to trans. Around town with some spirited driving trans stayed at 150-160 degrees, 185 coolant and 190+ oil temps (Z06 oil cooler) ambient 87+ temp.
Good luck, Joe
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 09:08 AM
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Ive been thinking of adding a cooler to my A6, but wanted to use a regular one (uhaul, autozone, and advance have them for less than 100 bucks) with the rubber based lines instead of braided stainless that would require the AN fittings and extra hassles. Who has done theirs without the fancy hookups?

Im just worried about a pressure issue and leaking (I have only seen the braided line/AN fitting setup on this site)
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 09:11 AM
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I'll be using a Hayden cooler from O'reilly's
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 09:48 AM
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IIRC you can use power steering hose (higher pressure rating) and the A/C clamps
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 11:26 AM
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Cutting the return and using a slip hose fitting sounds like it'd be the easiest thing to do.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by FloydSummerOf68
Cutting the return and using a slip hose fitting sounds like it'd be the easiest thing to do.
I just had one install Tuesday! By pass your radiator and just run an external cooler. My transmission runs much cooler now. I have been wondering if we can run oil lines from the engine to the radiator and use the factory transmission cooler to cooler our engine oil.


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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by el es tu
Ive been thinking of adding a cooler to my A6, but wanted to use a regular one (uhaul, autozone, and advance have them for less than 100 bucks) with the rubber based lines instead of braided stainless that would require the AN fittings and extra hassles. Who has done theirs without the fancy hookups?

Im just worried about a pressure issue and leaking (I have only seen the braided line/AN fitting setup on this site)
When I put a tranny cooler on our C5 A4, the biggest issue for hoses was temperature. The redline temp on our A6 is 270'F, so you want something good for about 300'. You should never get that hot, but hoses deteriorate over time and...

I could find very high pressure hoses locally, but couldn't get anything good for high temps, had to order it from Jegs or B&M.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by FloydSummerOf68
Cutting the return and using a slip hose fitting sounds like it'd be the easiest thing to do.
dont cut the lines just pull the clips, and the hoses will push over the bevel of the lines, then clamp, bypassing the rad, i have the hayden black analed cooler 12x125 years no leaks, i did cut the lines at first but it blew off 2x clamped, so replaced lines then just pulled the clips from the rad
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by FloydSummerOf68
I've never installed a trans cooler on a car before, so I'm looking for someone to help me out here.

How do one of these things go in?

Does the cooler come with lines/fittings for the install?

Any help is greatly appreciated, because I have no idea with this install. I'll be picking up a cooler this weekend to put it in.
Here's a parts list of what you'll need if you put your cooler in series. I used a 15,000 B&M btu cooler with 1/2" NPT fittings. You can use hi-pressure 3/8" line instead of braided line - which will make installation easier as we all know cutting the SS braided line is a PITA. The installation is all plug and play - no hacking, no oil leaks.
Oh yea, the other PITA is removing the shroud cause you need to drill 2holes and pass your flex lines through.

2 - Summit 220649 6AN to 1/2" NPT threads
2 - Summit 220687 6AN 90 degree end swivel
2 - Summit 220690 6AN hose end straight
1 - Summit 230606 stainless steel braided hose - 6 ft.
1 - Dorman 800-605 fitting (available at your local parts house)
1 pkg 12055 from Pure Choice Motorsports - you will use only 1 fitting if you run your cooler in series
1 - Russell 640830 M16 x 1.5 to -6AN Flare fittting
1 - B&M 80278 mounting kit
2 - 1 1/8 x7/8" grommets - Lowes ( you'll need to make 2 holes in the side of your shroud for your cooler lines). I used my dremel tool for this.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis50nj
dont cut the lines just pull the clips, and the hoses will push over the bevel of the lines, then clamp, bypassing the rad, i have the hayden black analed cooler 12x125 years no leaks, i did cut the lines at first but it blew off 2x clamped, so replaced lines then just pulled the clips from the rad
Maybe I'm missing something, but when you bypass the radiator what do you use to plug the radiator where the lines used to run?
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis50nj
dont cut the lines just pull the clips, and the hoses will push over the bevel of the lines, then clamp, bypassing the rad, i have the hayden black analed cooler 12x125 years no leaks, i did cut the lines at first but it blew off 2x clamped, so replaced lines then just pulled the clips from the rad
Bypass the radiator, use Gates 3/8" fuel hose pushed over the bevel and double clamped. Simple to do and easily reversible. You can even keep the clips in the glovebox to revert back in the unlikely event of a leak or failure.

The Gates hose (O'reilly's/Autozone) is rated for continous pressure and temperature higher than you'd ever get.

I used a Hayden 70273 stacked plate cooler, which only required two 3/8" hose barb fittings in the 1/2" pipe connection on the cooler.

I mounted mine horizontally in the air flow going up to the radiator from the lower air dam. I removed the 5 screws attaching the bumper cover, slipped in the cooler, then replaced all but the center screw. That tension locked the cooler into place. It doesn't sit behind the Vararam, nor in front of the radiator, nor below the bumper where parking curb damage is possible.

I've never had tranny temps exceed 200* yet, even in heavy traffic with 110* rush hour afternoon temps.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by FloydSummerOf68
Maybe I'm missing something, but when you bypass the radiator what do you use to plug the radiator where the lines used to run?
That internal line drains itself, so after it's empty just put a small piece of duct tape over the opening to keep the dirt out.
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 06:44 PM
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Don't laugh, but what if you got a Z06 engine cooler (for the trans) that is made fit and run your lines to it?
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by timd38
Don't laugh, but what if you got a Z06 engine cooler (for the trans) that is made fit and run your lines to it?
had the same idea, the z06 oil cooler being used as a trans cooler would look more like it came from the factory but it turned out to be an expensive option (300 something bucks for the cooler alone) compared to the universal kits (less than 100).
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