Engine Quits - No Codes
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,730
Likes: 32
From: Northern VA
Cruise-In 7-8-9-10-11-12 Veteran
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Engine Quits - No Codes
I've had three instances over the past two weeks where, after sitting a red light for a long period, when I start moving (yes, with a green light) the engine quits for no discernible reason. No codes are sent to the DIC nor does my OBDII scanner report any set or pending codes.
It will immediately restart and either immediately quits requiring a second (or third) restart or continues to run with no further problem. It does not set any code that I can find and the most that shows is a few misfires (5 on plug 8, 1 each on plugs 7,6, and 5, with 0 misfires on all remaining plugs).
This has happened when (1 instance) the gas was a little below 1/4 filled and the last two times where the gas level was between 7/8ths and full tank. The air filter (K&N) was cleaned over two months ago and seems to be okay. Battery is a yellow top Optima and holds a consistent charge between 13.8 and 14.2 volts.
Anyone have an idea of what could be causing this?
It will immediately restart and either immediately quits requiring a second (or third) restart or continues to run with no further problem. It does not set any code that I can find and the most that shows is a few misfires (5 on plug 8, 1 each on plugs 7,6, and 5, with 0 misfires on all remaining plugs).
This has happened when (1 instance) the gas was a little below 1/4 filled and the last two times where the gas level was between 7/8ths and full tank. The air filter (K&N) was cleaned over two months ago and seems to be okay. Battery is a yellow top Optima and holds a consistent charge between 13.8 and 14.2 volts.
Anyone have an idea of what could be causing this?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,730
Likes: 32
From: Northern VA
Cruise-In 7-8-9-10-11-12 Veteran
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Yeah, it's got an aftermarket cam (hey, its a complete Lingenfelter 403 engine) but that engine has been in the car since early 2005 and this is the first time that I have had this problem.
The car is a 6-speed manual and it doesn't stumble - just quits. It hasn't occurred while driving (i.e., under either hard or normal acceleration and shifting between 1st - 2nd or 2nd - 3rd gears) nor does it occur every time I drive the car.
Since it is an intermittent problem it is hard to troubleshoot, especially when it does not set a code.
The car is a 6-speed manual and it doesn't stumble - just quits. It hasn't occurred while driving (i.e., under either hard or normal acceleration and shifting between 1st - 2nd or 2nd - 3rd gears) nor does it occur every time I drive the car.
Since it is an intermittent problem it is hard to troubleshoot, especially when it does not set a code.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 7,049
Likes: 944
From: DFW TX
I had a similar issue like this after I installed my FAST 102, but it was just an idle stumble / die and it only happened when it got warm.
I had to add 5% to the air flow table in neutral.
Mine threw 0 codes also.
I had to add 5% to the air flow table in neutral.
Mine threw 0 codes also.
Yeah, it's got an aftermarket cam (hey, its a complete Lingenfelter 403 engine) but that engine has been in the car since early 2005 and this is the first time that I have had this problem.
The car is a 6-speed manual and it doesn't stumble - just quits. It hasn't occurred while driving (i.e., under either hard or normal acceleration and shifting between 1st - 2nd or 2nd - 3rd gears) nor does it occur every time I drive the car.
Since it is an intermittent problem it is hard to troubleshoot, especially when it does not set a code.
The car is a 6-speed manual and it doesn't stumble - just quits. It hasn't occurred while driving (i.e., under either hard or normal acceleration and shifting between 1st - 2nd or 2nd - 3rd gears) nor does it occur every time I drive the car.
Since it is an intermittent problem it is hard to troubleshoot, especially when it does not set a code.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,730
Likes: 32
From: Northern VA
Cruise-In 7-8-9-10-11-12 Veteran
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Tim, thanks for the idea but since the engine (and associated FAST 92mm intake) have been in the car for the past five years I don't see this as the root problem but will check it. I will admit that at all times it has been with high outside heat.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,730
Likes: 32
From: Northern VA
Cruise-In 7-8-9-10-11-12 Veteran
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Problem Continues
I've cleaned the MAF Sensor and took the car out for a quick spin. Seemed to have cleared until the 15-minute mark when I was idling at a red light. Unlike earlier incidents, it did not stop while at the light but immediately after I started to move. It was not a stutter or stumble it just stopped - bang! It immediately restarted and I did not have another problem but this is becoming a real pain under the pistol belt.
To reiterate, the car is a 2005 Z51 with 6-speed manual, a Lingenfelter 403 engine, K&N air cleaner (cleaned/re-oiled in mid-May), yellow top Optima which holds 13.8 to 14.2volts, and it shows no codes (posted or pending) on my scan tool.
I'm at a loss and hope someone can provide some more ideas on what to check next.
To reiterate, the car is a 2005 Z51 with 6-speed manual, a Lingenfelter 403 engine, K&N air cleaner (cleaned/re-oiled in mid-May), yellow top Optima which holds 13.8 to 14.2volts, and it shows no codes (posted or pending) on my scan tool.
I'm at a loss and hope someone can provide some more ideas on what to check next.
1st Gear
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Had a similar problem where my '07 would suddenly stop running or fail to start. What eventually was found by the techs at the dealer was a loose ground wire on what I would assume would be the main fuel pump since the C6 has 2 pumps, one of which is to transfer fuel between the tanks.
The abruptness of the engine stopping had me convinced it was a fuel problem but the fault never seemed to set a permanent code and it was only because I let the dealer drive it with data collectors attached that they found and fixed the problem after it failed to start on them. I had even had it towed to the dealer one time and tried to start it for the service guy and failed but amusingly while we were in his office one of the dealer's men got in started it no problem and drove away.
The abruptness of the engine stopping had me convinced it was a fuel problem but the fault never seemed to set a permanent code and it was only because I let the dealer drive it with data collectors attached that they found and fixed the problem after it failed to start on them. I had even had it towed to the dealer one time and tried to start it for the service guy and failed but amusingly while we were in his office one of the dealer's men got in started it no problem and drove away.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,391
Likes: 23
From: Santa Barbara CA
Well, you could hook up a mechanical fuel pressure gauge under the hood and tape it to the windshield for testing. This would tell you if it's a fuel system issue when it dies. Could be a poor connection somewhere or a sensor going bad.
You might want to have someone with a Tech2 look at the codes. I know my cheapy Matco scan tool will not show codes that are not currently present (ie. check engine light on). There could also be one stored in the body module that could help identify the problem.
My first thought was air mass meter as well, since you just oiled the filter. It will cause a check engine light, but the engine should run okay if you unplug the MAF. Might want to try that to see if it eliminates the problem.
Hope this helps....
You might want to have someone with a Tech2 look at the codes. I know my cheapy Matco scan tool will not show codes that are not currently present (ie. check engine light on). There could also be one stored in the body module that could help identify the problem.
My first thought was air mass meter as well, since you just oiled the filter. It will cause a check engine light, but the engine should run okay if you unplug the MAF. Might want to try that to see if it eliminates the problem.
Hope this helps....
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,394
Likes: 281
From: cumming ga
I've had three instances over the past two weeks where, after sitting a red light for a long period, when I start moving (yes, with a green light) the engine quits for no discernible reason. No codes are sent to the DIC nor does my OBDII scanner report any set or pending codes.
It will immediately restart and either immediately quits requiring a second (or third) restart or continues to run with no further problem. It does not set any code that I can find and the most that shows is a few misfires (5 on plug 8, 1 each on plugs 7,6, and 5, with 0 misfires on all remaining plugs).
This has happened when (1 instance) the gas was a little below 1/4 filled and the last two times where the gas level was between 7/8ths and full tank. The air filter (K&N) was cleaned over two months ago and seems to be okay. Battery is a yellow top Optima and holds a consistent charge between 13.8 and 14.2 volts.
Anyone have an idea of what could be causing this?
It will immediately restart and either immediately quits requiring a second (or third) restart or continues to run with no further problem. It does not set any code that I can find and the most that shows is a few misfires (5 on plug 8, 1 each on plugs 7,6, and 5, with 0 misfires on all remaining plugs).
This has happened when (1 instance) the gas was a little below 1/4 filled and the last two times where the gas level was between 7/8ths and full tank. The air filter (K&N) was cleaned over two months ago and seems to be okay. Battery is a yellow top Optima and holds a consistent charge between 13.8 and 14.2 volts.
Anyone have an idea of what could be causing this?
z51vett
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 4,730
Likes: 32
From: Northern VA
Cruise-In 7-8-9-10-11-12 Veteran
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
New Symptom
Now it is beginning to cut out while driving. I had gone approximately .5 miles past the stop light and, while driving in a straight line at about 2,000 rpm, the engine quit. It immediately restarted and I completed the drive to the office when another symptom began. When I pulled into the garage to park the car the engine began to oscillate between 1,000 and 500 rpm and run very rough until it just stopped. Again, no codes are showing on the DIC or on my OBDII scanner.
I will be "head down" in the engine bay this afternoon trying to see if I have a loose ground or if a spark plug boot is not firmly seated.
Anyone have any ideas of what could be causing this? I'm at my (half)wits end.
I will be "head down" in the engine bay this afternoon trying to see if I have a loose ground or if a spark plug boot is not firmly seated.
Anyone have any ideas of what could be causing this? I'm at my (half)wits end.
Somba master
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 10,554
Likes: 63
Cruise-In 7, 9 & 12 Veteran
Wounded Warrior Escort '11
St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'11
Ben,
Maybe you can connect your code reader while driving home and, if it happens again, you might catch something. If you can, maybe you could swap batteries with your neighbor and see what happens.
Maybe you can connect your code reader while driving home and, if it happens again, you might catch something. If you can, maybe you could swap batteries with your neighbor and see what happens.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 16
From: Sugarhill Ga
i had it happen to me on my 05. i traced it to an air leak at the coupler from my Varaam to the maf. I put a hose clamp on the coupler and it went away. it's been about a year now. I had no codes either.
