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Two quick questions. When tightening axel nuts on the C6 does 1) the vehicle need to be raised and 2) the torque is set at 140 ft-lbs with #272 Loctite?
First, you don't want to "re-torque" the existing nuts. There is a risk of stretching and breaking the spindle. Remove the existing nuts and install new ones using the below procedure. And no, the car doesn't have to be raised.
Correction
Replace the left and the right wheel drive shaft nut following the procedure below.
1. Remove wheel center cap and existing nut
2. Apply Goodwrench # 12345493 (also known as Loctite 272) on threads in area where nut finally seats
3. Install new nut (p/n 10257766)
4. Torque nut to 190Nm (140 ft-lb), static
5. Allow 24 hours cure time.
6. Install the center cap to the rim.
Important: The vehicle should not be driven for 24 hours following the repair in order to allow the thread lock to cure.
Parts Information
Part Number.....10257766
Description......Nut
Qty................2 (one per side)
My car had bulletin 07-04-95-001A performed on 11-24-2009.
Most of the previous copies I've seen say 160 ft-lb, which was apparently an error and reduced to 140 ft-lb at some point. I'm trying to figure out how much they tightened mine, mine might be over-torqued. Which might or might not be a problem some day.
First, you don't want to "re-torque" the existing nuts. There is a risk of stretching and breaking the spindle. Remove the existing nuts and install new ones using the below procedure. And no, the car doesn't have to be raised.
On my last axle, I used locktite with 100ftlbs. I marked the position of the nut to axle with a black magic marker. It has never moved in 3 years. The first 2 axles broke within a few days of each other. The first broke when I asked Roy at Cartek to check it. He tightened it and it broke that night.
Tqing to 140 or 160 is rediculous and pulls along the spindle weakening where the spindle meeds the hub. I broke two axles going to 160. The second axle was TQed and marked and still came lose with the mark unmoved. To clarify: the axle nut was at 40ftlbs with the black mark unmoved, hence something stretched. Draw your own conclusion.
Nothing is going to fall off the car even if the nut was to come off. If its at 40ftlbs with locktite, its not going anywhere. The car can function with no nut on at all so dont get hung up on what the TQ value is. If that black mark doesnt move, dont put a TQ wrench on it. If the axle breaks however, it can swing around and lock up your rear wheel and take out other suspension parts. Which scenario do you like better?
Last edited by SpinMonster; Aug 27, 2011 at 06:07 AM.
On my last axle, I used locktite with 100ftlbs. I marked the position of the nut to axle with a black magic marker. It has never moved in 3 years. The first 2 axles broke within a few days of each other. The first broke when I asked Roy at Cartek to check it. He tightened it and it broke that night.
Tqing to 140 or 160 is rediculous and pulls along the spindle weakening where the spindle meeds the hub. I broke two axles going to 160. The second axle was TQed and marked and still came lose with the mark unmoved. To clarify: the axle nut was at 40ftlbs with the black mark unmoved, hence something stretched. Draw your own conclusion.
Nothing is going to fall off the car even if the nut was to come off. If its at 40ftlbs with locktite, its not going anywhere. The car can function with no nut on at all so dont get hung up on what the TQ value is. If that black mark doesnt move, dont put a TQ wrench on it. If the axle breaks however, it can swing around and lock up your rear wheel and take out other suspension parts. Which scenario do you like better?
I agree with Spinmonster. DO NOT GET TORQUE HAPPY WITH THE REAR AXEL SPINDLE NUTS.
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