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I can't use that location because my jack gets in the way personally.
That doesn't make sense.
You can jack your car up from many locations and then put the jackstands wherever you like. Jack it up on the side and then put the jackstands under the crossmember if you want.
I also don't use pucks and have no rocker damage. You just have to inspect where the jack is making contact before actually jacking the car up.
You can jack your car up from many locations and then put the jackstands wherever you like. Jack it up on the side and then put the jackstands under the crossmember if you want.
I also don't use pucks and have no rocker damage. You just have to inspect where the jack is making contact before actually jacking the car up.
I think my jack stands are too tall for this, I'd be nervous about jacking the car up from the one side while the other is already on a stand near the middle of the car.
Maybe I'll just get shorter jack stands and do it the way you say.
Same here as Floyd. I put the jackstands under the front crossmember and had the rear end up on ramps when I did my header install.
I have jacked this thing up so many different ways and it never matters which way I do it. Now one thing that sometimes helps is that I have two floorjacks and can raise both sides together if need be.
During my header installation, I put the rear up on ramps and the front up on stands. I have used a piece of wood under the front crossmember previously to install headers on my C5, but there is more wiggle room if you put the front stands under the frame where the front pucks would go (i.e. - at the jacking point).
My car is lowered, so I drive it up on some 2x6's, then I jack up the car at the abovementioned points and slide some low-rise Rhino ramps under the front tires, THEN I lift the whole front end by jacking under the front crossmember, which allows me to place both jackstands at the same time. If you look at the pic below, you can see the placement of one of the stands (it's black and yellow with a white towel over it to prevent it from scuffing the frame's paint).
During my header installation, I put the rear up on ramps and the front up on stands. I have used a piece of wood under the front crossmember previously to install headers on my C5, but there is more wiggle room if you put the front stands under the frame where the front pucks would go (i.e. - at the jacking point).
My car is lowered, so I drive it up on some 2x6's, then I jack up the car at the abovementioned points and slide some low-rise Rhino ramps under the front tires, THEN I lift the whole front end by jacking under the front crossmember, which allows me to place both jackstands at the same time. If you look at the pic below, you can see the placement of one of the stands (it's black and yellow with a white towel over it to prevent it from scuffing the frame's paint).
I like this. I think the idea of more wiggle room sounds great.
The jackstand really isn't that close to the center of the car either. I keep it to the outside of the center cross member.
My jackstands that I was using before started at about 12" height. Now I have some that around 8" to supplement.
My mind just keeps giving me a picture of the car dumping off of the existing jack stand, I dunno. I think I'll try it this way next time. It has to be substantially easier.
I'm not sure how comfortable I'd be supporting the car via jackstands on the pucks, personally.
I had my car up on four jackstands with pucks all last winter for brake work and I plan to do the same this winter for headers and new tires. My jackstands have the wide "V" kind of top and regular hockey pucks were too wide in diameter to fit squarely in it. However the metal pucks some vendors have fit perfectly and I preferred having the lift points out wider on the car than on the crossmembers. It was very secure. I've seen some folks who have jackstands with a round, flat top, which would be perfect, but I couldn't find those.
I jacked from the front and back using the points in the drawing above -- a 2x4 for the front to spread the weight and in the triangle for the back. I went up a couple inches each time and adjusted the jacks up, as well. Probably a little **** and could have gone all the way up, but...
Only problem was in my excitement for spring, I left the pucks in and lost one on my shakedown cruise
BAMAGOLFER has a recent write up on his header install on jack stands. He put the car up 16" and that is what I will try as well.
Thanks for all the help guys. I will let you know how the install goes. I'm trying to get everything installed before I drop it off at quality motorsports later this month for a cam package.
Just a update, put on obx longtubes no cats, sounds amazing with the borla s type 2s. The sound is a lot differant and much more muscle car sounding. Put the headers on in my apartment parking lot, got the car 15 inches off the ground by using 6 2x12x16 under each tire. Fit was good no major issues with the install. Did take 8 hours with the help of a friend/coworker. We are both Toolmakers and mechanics, not used to working on cars but we build and repair machines daily so not that much of a stretch. THE ONE THING I WILL STRESS IS KEEP THE SLAVE CYLINDER HOSE FOR THE HYDRAULIC CLUTCH AWAY FROM THE HEADERS. I MELTED THE HOSE DRIVING THE NEXT DAY AND SPENT 1600 TO GET IT FIXED AT PAUL MASSE CHEVY. The mechanic told me had I moved the hose a 1/4 inch away from the header I would have been fine. Live and learn I guess. I would do it again but would make certain that everything was away from the headers. I wish that I had known before, but hopefully this will help another owner from making the same mistake