I'm looking to swap a new cam into my 08 m6 with stock 342gears. With a under drive pulley.

If this isn't too much to ask (which it may be) I would like a cam that will..
Give me good HP gains now.
Be boost friendly later when I add a procharger.
Not kill my torque.(useless I don't need TQ. You tell me!)
Anything else is fine including obnoxious noises.
ANY SUGGESTIONS

 

My current mods are LG superpro 1 7/8th with xpipe.
Halltech killerbee II intake.
B&B prt axel back.
And lowering bolts Lol.
I'm making 423rwhp & 418tq

 

lots of good cam threads if you do a little searching on here.

226/234 115 112 is a pretty good all around cam. It will do fine with a blower too. You don't mention drivability, power goals, or the rpm range for torque so its hard to make more suggestions than that.

 

Power goals- I want to gain as much power as possible. As long as it's going to make good gains on boost as well.

Driveability- let her shake buck what ever As long as she handles the business at Full throttle!

As far as torque range I'm not positive. I will be doing mostly roll starts and highwaydriveing. But of course I love to rip it down my local 1/4 mile track!

 

Given your criteria, I'd suggest a 230/238 114 +2 at a minimum, or LG's G6X3 . The 230/234 114 has shown excellent NA results, but given your criteria, I'd want a little more exhaust duration for max FI performance. The LG cam has posted excellent results, but it is more than the average daily driver wants as it can have some issues at 1600 rpm and below. It's a big split, although exact specs are "secret". LG could advise on how it works with FI.

 

How bad of low rpm problems? Like I'm gonna hate myself every time i need to back out of a parking spot?
And I would like for my car to want too shift at 7000 rpms. Does this sound possible?

 

Drivability depends on the tune. Skilled tuners can make it pretty livable. I haven't driven a cam that big (G6X3) in an LS3, so i can only relay what others have said. There are guys on the board with it, so you can get good advice on it.

Spinning to 7k is not a problem with the valvetrain upgraded.

 

The G6X3 wouldn't be ideal for FI, but then again neither would an UDP. A cam is always a compromise in some way, so you need to narrow down what you want to do specifically. A big cam is going to loose more torque down low, but gain more power up top. Of course it will be more noticeable with stock gears. Feel free to contact me with any questions, thanks.

 

Call ECS...you sound like thier type of customer and your kind of shop

 

Alright guys I just ordered my cam, dual valve springs, and rods. I'll post the specs of the cam and the the corresponding companies who produce the valve springs and rods. Within the next two days. And I will have the dyno results buy next weekend. I'm thinking about asking my local shop to pin my crank while there down there ( if this I the same location?..). Wish me luck! Or not if your another vette in south FL :p

 

Alright so here's the specs

Cam specs 239/242 duration .50. 624/624 lift 114 lsa
Patriot Xtreme dual valve spring

With titanium retainers , hardened pushrods (I don't know the brand) and valve seals.

He is also offering me a larger cam which is 242/251.

I don't know which one too choose but I need to know by Wed this week. Any advice?

 

That is a big cam and would not be my choice with a supercharger. It will loose low end torque with that late of an intake valve closing point, did he mention the PTV clearance?

 

Nothing about clearance but he said the 242/251 cam will move the power higher in the rpm and the 239/242 will give me more mid range power

 

Even the 239cam is going to be top end orientated. With 4* of advance it still closes the intake valve later than most choose to do so. A 235/242 114 110 would probably be better in the midrange and a little easier to tune.

 

That's really good to hear! I wanted to go with a cam that was more top end. But I was worried that I was going too kick myself in the *** for picking the smaller cam.

 

I've tried to educate myself about these things, but I'm certainly not someone who has the expertise of trial and error varying camshafts between naturally aspirated and supercharged engines.

My understanding is that supercharged engines need much less valve overlap than naturally aspirated engines. Less overlap means less duration. I think this means that a supercharged/turbocharged engine really would be "happy" with what looks like relatively mild cam, but not just a street mild cam. I think what they really need is a lot of valve lift, and this is what makes them different than a stock cam shaft with similar durations. Also supercharged/turbocharged engines like big valve diameters. These are comments based on my book "learnin."

In other words, taking a stock cam shaft, replacing it with a longer duration cam shaft, etc to run on a normally aspirated engine to produce more HP, and then later supercharging/turbocharging the engine with the same cam, may be reducing the effectiveness of the supercharging/turbocharging effort. People's comments with expert knowledge will be appreciated. I'd like to learn about this. Might put a supercharger on my 08 (Edelbrock??)...The wife is thinking about going overseas for a couple of months or so, so this would be a good time to plop on a supercharger.

 

I've seen some hefty S/C cams, but generally there isn't the need to push the cam size like in an NA set-up. It doesn't need the last little bit of overlap for good performance. IMO, If you adding a blower, let it do most of the work. I've seen a number of guys get a nice gain on a blower car just from using a Z06 cam. A cam with less overlap is easier to have a controlled idle and bottom end that isn't fighting you in the parking lot.

 

It's finally in! The car made 473rwhp and 455tq. She drives great. Except for the fact that the car does not see to want too decelerate, it kinda maintains speed.

I'm thinking about asking for my shop too retune in two weeks once everything sets in. I'll post a video if I can soon so you can hear it.

 

Sounds like the base running airflow is a little high, which creates somewhat of a cruise control effect and takes the car a while to idle down when stopped if it will at all. Simple fix just takes time to dial in spot on.

 

Yeah I save gas because I can idle at 45 lol. And I do find myself takeing faster turns.