I know this is probably an easy job. I've replaced stats on other machines before (ATVs, MCs) but never a car.

Is there a link to how to replace the stat on an LS3 motor (pref with pics, etc)? (this is for a 2011 GS...) I am getting a tune, yes. And no, I'm not worried about warrenty. Just looking for some good step by step instructions.

Thanks!

 

Stat is right up front where you can see it. "Hardest" thing about the swap is the mess.

Look here for some tips-->http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...stall-ls3.html

 

No matter what you do you are going to spill coolant. The thermostat housing has two bolts with a 10mm head. Wait until the car is cool, put a catch pan under the bottom and then pop loose the two bolts. Do this outside on the driveway vs. in the garage. The thermostat has an o-ring type gasket on it. Every aftermarket thermostat I've seen has a gasket that is inferior to the OEM one. Take the original gasket off your old thermostat and swap it onto the new thermostat. There is an alignment tab on the gasket. Make sure you have the tab in it's recess. If not, guaranteed leak. Snug the two bolts back down, get a gallon of 50/50 Dexcool and top off your overflow tank. Here is where it gets fun.....

To purge air from your system.....

Fill the coolant reservoir. Put the cap on and tighten it. At the front of the reservoir there is a rubber line (1/2”-ish) that runs along the top of the radiator and terminates in a T fitting about center of the radiator. Remove this hose from the T. Blow into the hose (pressurizes the reservoir) and the fluid will transfer from the coolant tank to the radiator/engine. When the coolant tank is empty fill it again and repeat. Within 3-4 cycles you’ll get fluid at the T fitting. DONE! I’ve done this dozens of times and it works perfectly. No trapped air this way!

Last tip...there are two different LS size thermostats. Beginning in 2009 the thermostat housing is larger. If you get the older style thermostat by mistake it will look close but slightly smaller...DON'T TRY AND USE IT! What you need is SLP #100229...NOT #100228 which is for the older cars. Summit.com sells it. Get ready for t-stat sticker shock! $30.00 for a thermostat just seems high to me.

And one last thing...before you start the car take your garden hose and wash away any antifreeze that spilled on the crossmember...stuff stinks when it gets warm.

 

or use carb cleaner or brake kleen to help with cleaning the antifreeze
or make sure you drain the rad first, then get the front end up, and then pull the stat
not sure if there are drain plugs in the block, but if there are, that would alleviate the mess too
all in all
really easy, just stuff some old t-shirts/towels/rags to help with the mess
you would also want to make sure you have a tune to handle the stat change too

 

For my 2011 GS, what kind of antifreeze is recommended? I've read Dexcool in most places.. does it matter if its premix or not?

 

Dexcool Only. I get Zerex from Napa. Some get Prestone from walmart, etc.

If you buy premix you are paying for a half gallon of water.
I only use full strength.

Bob

 

Many thanks to all who replied, especially Motorhead with the T-Fitting explanation. It worked perfectly (I think! lol).

Heres what I did..

1. Put car up on ramps. Marked overflow tank with current level. Drain radiator. Measured what came out.. was about 1.75 gallons.
2. Removed hose from housing
3. Removed housing, replaced t-stat (even swapped gaskets as mine is still a 2011 and I read someone said the OEM gaskets are better.)
4. Replaced housing, torqued to 11 lb/ft.
5. Replaced hose onto housing.
6. Filled tank. I did it slowly and massaged the lines, but nothing seemed to go through. So I did the T-Fitting thing and it worked great. I took an empty water bottle and put it on the end of the fitting so when the coolant started flowing, it would catch it and not make a mess.
7. Got a little more than 1.5 gallons in and massaged lines, blew slowly to gurgle more air out until it was a steady stream of coolant coming out of the T-Fitting.
8. Started up motor. Watched closely the coolant temp. I revved to about 1500RPMs now and then and watched the tank. I ended up adding more coolant to the tank to get it just above the level I had marked (I honestly couldn't see the markings on the tank for HOT or COLD...) So about 1.75 gallons.. exactly what I took out!
9. The temp got to about 178 and then dropped to about 172 (T-Stat opened). Then crawled back to about 185. I turned on the AC and watched the temp drop some more (I don't have the tune in yet to change the fan temp.. coming soon). It hovered around 182 with the AC on and idling in the shop. I also noticed revving slowly would drop the temp quicker than just the AC on.
10. Turned off AC, drove car off ramps and drove it back to the garage (a couple hundred feet). Temp got to about 200. Parked and turned on the AC again and temp started dropping again. (Good sign I'm guessing!)
11. Covered car and put some fish sticks in the oven for lunch.

It turned out great. I got a LOT of info and tricks searching before I did this. Even how to make my Autozone ramps "race ramps" with 2x12s and bolts. Worked slick and never rubbed.

Again, thanks to everyone! I hope the above means things went well.

 

Doing a swap here also.......once I get the race ramps.........LOL!

A reprogram is not necessary for the fans........it will perform the same.

 

I know a reprogram isn't needed, but the stat was needed for the tune. I wish it wasn't, but the tuner required it.

 

Never had an issue with it self purging...until yesterday. The car would not suck down any coolant. This works great.