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So, I have a flat front tire on my '07 c6 vert. I'm running high performance PS2s (not run flats or zp's) and the tire store sent a flunkie out with a standard floor jack. I had to stop him from just sliding it under and jacking it up. I want to change the tire myself as it seems no one knows how to work on these cars. I think I will drive it up on my ramps and then place the jack under in the right place from the side. According to the tire store manager, I damaged the tire beyond repair when I drove on it and I can see a definite groove in the sidewall. He quoted $449.16 for a replacement (same tire) including him removing, mount/balance and replacing at my location. I am about 6 miles from his shop.
Question: What do you all recommend?
This is awful, I'm glad I didn't get stuck on the side of the road. The tire store manager said he couldn't help me, since his jack wouldn't fit under the car. I do have the OEM tires at home with about 11K miles on them.
Not sure what you're asking for. If you're concerned about the price quoted for the new tire then you either have to accept it if you're in a hurry or put your stockers back on and take your time shopping for a better price for the replacement.
Look under the car behind the tire for the slots used to tie the vehicle down to a trailer/tow truck or whatever and place a 3-4" piece of 2x4 on your jack pad and slide it under. If you don't have room for the wood, you will probably be okay just putting the jack pad there, especially if it is rubber. Just don't sandwich your rocker panel between the jack and the frame, this is the most important part.
I drive my car up on some boards and jack up the front from the cradle when I swap out my front tires for either skinnies or road course tires. I've been doing that on Vettes for years now with no ill effects.
........... According to the tire store manager, I damaged the tire beyond repair when I drove on it and I can see a definite groove in the sidewall. ............
A really probability. Severely deflated conventional (non-RFT) tires will be ruined if you drive very far on them.
I drive my car up on some boards and jack up the front from the cradle when I swap out my front tires for either skinnies or road course tires. I've been doing that on Vettes for years now with no ill effects.
So, I have a flat front tire on my '07 c6 vert. I'm running high performance PS2s (not run flats or zp's) and the tire store sent a flunkie out with a standard floor jack. I had to stop him from just sliding it under and jacking it up. I want to change the tire myself as it seems no one knows how to work on these cars. I think I will drive it up on my ramps and then place the jack under in the right place from the side. According to the tire store manager, I damaged the tire beyond repair when I drove on it and I can see a definite groove in the sidewall. He quoted $449.16 for a replacement (same tire) including him removing, mount/balance and replacing at my location. I am about 6 miles from his shop.
Question: What do you all recommend?
This is awful, I'm glad I didn't get stuck on the side of the road. The tire store manager said he couldn't help me, since his jack wouldn't fit under the car. I do have the OEM tires at home with about 11K miles on them.
This is the exact scenario I tried to explain to those that said to get non run flat tires and a cell phone and a AAA card, back in 1999 when I had my C5. Stuck in the middle of Nowhere, Utah with a flat tire, and you call AAA(if you are lucky enough to be in an area that has cell coverage), and they send out a local yocal with a floor jack. They forget that a non runflat tire does not have the stiff sidewall to support the tire and the non runflat tire's sidewall will collapse and you will lose a couple inches of room under the car to get a jack under the frame rail.
About the only thing you can do is stack a couple of 2 X 12's to drive on, to get your floor jack under the frame rail.
I have an aluminum jack from a late 09's Mercedes E class sedan that will collapse to 2.75 inches, that I carry in my car, even though I have run flats. The jack only weighs 3 pounds, so it's not like I'm going to kill the car's performance with all the extra weight of that jack.
If it's a slow leak and the tire store is near by, you might be able to air up the flat with a compressor and drive slowly to the store so they can work on it there. Might need to jack it up first so the bead can (maybe) re-seal.
But based on their first attempt, maybe you don't want them working on your car/wheels/tires.
This is the exact scenario I tried to explain to those that said to get non run flat tires and a cell phone and a AAA card, back in 1999 when I had my C5. Stuck in the middle of Nowhere, Utah with a flat tire, and you call AAA(if you are lucky enough to be in an area that has cell coverage), and they send out a local yocal with a floor jack. They forget that a non runflat tire does not have the stiff sidewall to support the tire and the non runflat tire's sidewall will collapse and you will lose a couple inches of room under the car to get a jack under the frame rail.
About the only thing you can do is stack a couple of 2 X 12's to drive on, to get your floor jack under the frame rail.
That shouldn't ever be the case.
Even if the front is TOTALLY flat you can slide the jack under the rear and lift up the entire side of the car. It doesn't have to be under the front to lift the front. The frame of the C6 is super stiff.
I always carry a slime "power spare" road kit with me in my car since I run non-runflats.
I got one for my Wife's XLR-V as well since we have non-runflat Hankook V12s on it now. Hers is the "smart spair" though...push a button and it dumps the slime sealant and inflates the tire at the same time.
As a data point since I use non-runflats and daily drive my car, I carry a tiny pump and sensor safe goop from Discount Tire direct (the Conti-kit, google it if interested), it comes in a nice little case and fits behind the waterfall in my vert. I also carry a plug kit in a little case from Walmart. I've supplemented the kit with a pair of dykes to cut off the excess.
For those that plug, my buddy taught me a good trick, instead of using the reamer to open the hole a little for the plug, use a cordless drill slightly smaller than the plug. I don't carry a cordless drill but when I do it at home I now use that trick with great success so far.
As a data point since I use non-runflats and daily drive my car, I carry a tiny pump and sensor safe goop from Discount Tire direct (the Conti-kit, google it if interested), it comes in a nice little case and fits behind the waterfall in my vert. I also carry a plug kit in a little case from Walmart. I've supplemented the kit with a pair of dykes to cut off the excess.
For those that plug, my buddy taught me a good trick, instead of using the reamer to open the hole a little for the plug, use a cordless drill slightly smaller than the plug. I don't carry a cordless drill but when I do it at home I now use that trick with great success so far.
Exactly what I do right down to the pair of dykes.
This is the exact scenario I tried to explain to those that said to get non run flat tires and a cell phone and a AAA card, back in 1999 when I had my C5. Stuck in the middle of Nowhere, Utah with a flat tire, and you call AAA(if you are lucky enough to be in an area that has cell coverage), and they send out a local yocal with a floor jack. They forget that a non runflat tire does not have the stiff sidewall to support the tire and the non runflat tire's sidewall will collapse and you will lose a couple inches of room under the car to get a jack under the frame rail.
About the only thing you can do is stack a couple of 2 X 12's to drive on, to get your floor jack under the frame rail.
I have an aluminum jack from a late 09's Mercedes E class sedan that will collapse to 2.75 inches, that I carry in my car, even though I have run flats. The jack only weighs 3 pounds, so it's not like I'm going to kill the car's performance with all the extra weight of that jack.
The Middle of Nowhere is in MO, not UT. http://www.middleofnowhere-mo.com/
Considering that the Bridge to Nowhere is in AK and the middle is in MO, then all of North America must be in Nowhere. And it sure feels that that sometimes too.
The Middle of Nowhere is in MO, not UT. http://www.middleofnowhere-mo.com/
Considering that the Bridge to Nowhere is in AK and the middle is in MO, then all of North America must be in Nowhere. And it sure feels that that sometimes too.
On a related note, in central Illinois I think you can actually see the curvature of the earth. Or as one of our European exchange students said, "There's no mountains to block the view!"