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Cleaning an oiled air filter?

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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 01:34 PM
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Default Cleaning an oiled air filter?

How do you know when its time to re-oil your filter (Airaid in this case), barring when its obviously filthy of course.
Is there a std rule of thumb regarding miles?
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jpuli28
How do you know when its time to re-oil your filter (Airaid in this case), barring when its obviously filthy of course.
Is there a std rule of thumb regarding miles?
I only re oil after washing and air drying . I wash when it's dirty, varies with conditions and miles.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by REVAK
I only re oil after washing and air drying . I wash when it's dirty, varies with conditions and miles.
Let me rephrase, how do you know when to clean (i.e rinsing,drying &re-oil). I realize enviroments vary, but if its not obviously dirty I was wondering if there was a general rule of thumb just for the sand/dirt/contaminates you cant see. I think I cleaned it last about 5k mi ago.

Thanks
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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I clean mine with every oil change. If I'm going to the track or an event, I'll clean it the day before
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 08:27 PM
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50K miles is commonly mentioned.
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 09:25 PM
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A word of CAUTION about oiling the filter (no matter which brand) I have had K&N , Vararam and one other brand, and Am CAREFUL NOT TO OVER OIL IT "or so I thought" I have a Vararam on my 05 and about 3 or 4 months ago I took the filter out washed it, & sprayed the "RED" Vararam oil on the filter, BEING EXTRA CAREFUL NOT TO OVER OIL IT... or so I thought

I race my car at least 2 or more times a month, and in the last two months it has slowed down in the 1/4 mile from a low 12 sec car to 12.8 in "GOOD AIR"

I took it to Cartek, and they dyno-ed it 367 HP... then looked at the MAF and it looked like it was completely clogged.. oil had gotten onto the MAF and dust/dirt stuck to the oil cutting down the air intake..

They took the MAF out cleaned it and replaced it, went over the tune, and my car picked up 17 HP just by cleaning the MAF !!

What I'm saying its safer to oil it to little than to OVER oil it... Now I just use WD40 instead of the oil... been running the # again... I'll repost on Sat my HP with the KOOKS headers on it...
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 12:14 AM
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50k?! Sounds a little high, the oil doesnt repel dirt so one would think 50k miles worth of trapped dirt would hinder performance long before that.

WD40 instead of oil? Hmmmm Id like to see the results of that, effectiveness and performance wise.

Im thinking of just going with a dry filter set up so I dont have to bother.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 04:20 AM
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No way would I use WD-40 when the application says to use their oil for the filter. You are correct as far as oil and dirt getting into the MAF. That happened to me with my LS1 to get dynoed. The tune was out of wack. So now I just always clean the MAF with CDC in the red can specificaly for electronics. Seems to work well.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 07:39 AM
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Why bother cleaning it? It doesn't filter out anything anyway.
.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by jpuli28
50k?! Sounds a little high, the oil doesnt repel dirt so one would think 50k miles worth of trapped dirt would hinder performance long before that.

WD40 instead of oil? Hmmmm Id like to see the results of that, effectiveness and performance wise.

Im thinking of just going with a dry filter set up so I dont have to bother.
50K is mentioned a lot, and people will differ on how much or little a K&N style filter works. sometimes it works better a little dirty than pure clean---traps more dirt. just remember the post by revak: air dry. I used to put mine out in the sun on a piece of paper for an afternoon. sun, heat and air can do a job on drying it out but it becomes an all day process of cleaning, drying, oiling, drying and goes back in the next morning.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 09:54 AM
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by whiteboy
50K miles is commonly mentioned.
50K is the mileage to replace the OEM paper filter.

I have a Blue Attack filter and I think they recommend every 4-6K. Typically I clean when I have the oil changed, so every 6K more or less. At that point the filter is getting dirty and needs a cleaning, and all I do is street driving, no racing.
I talked to the Blue Attack guys and they really made a point only to use their product to "oil" the filter. They said it wasn't oil-based, so the risk of contamination the MAF is a lot less.
Been working fine for me for 30-35K.

Sonny
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 01:01 PM
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what i do i clean the filters
let em dry overnight/day
then i spray the oil on them lightly and put them in like grocery plastic bags and tie up
a few hours later/next day they are nice and evenly coated
avoids the temptation of over spraying them
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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Walt, very interesting video, thanks. Too bad its not an independent plug.
Is this graph for CAI or stock air box panel filters? How old is this graph?
Is there a graph to show who flows the most air?
Compare the two graphs and choose from the middle for best filteration and air flow.
Hell, should I really even worry about this
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Don 79 TA
what i do i clean the filters
let em dry overnight/day
then i spray the oil on them lightly and put them in like grocery plastic bags and tie up
a few hours later/next day they are nice and evenly coated
avoids the temptation of over spraying them
This is what I dislike, call me lazy or impatient. I even bought a second filter so I wouldnt have hours or a day of down time with no filter (ie. no vette ). But now Im sure its time to clean one of them. Whats the plastic do?

The dry version cai filters are basically tap and go but I have no idea how great they are.
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Old Oct 6, 2011 | 01:53 PM
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The whole point is very simple. The stock filters are the best for air filtration. The K&N will have a greater airflow and more dirt passes into your engine and ultimately into your oil. Not good. So for maybe, and that's a big maybe, you might get 10 horsepower and you have to mess with the filter and oil it. The stock is good for 50,000 miles under normal conditions. Most of you will never see 50,000 miles on your car. As an engineer that knows a few things about engine wear, I'd never buy a used car that had used one of these inferior filters. Is 10 hp that important?

Last edited by Walt White Coupe; Oct 7, 2011 at 10:11 PM.
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Old Oct 7, 2011 | 04:09 PM
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Anyone comment on the dry "performance" filters?
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 01:38 AM
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So according to K&N, they recommend 100K. But, I usually do mine every time I change my oil. Its part of my all in one check up on the car. Also, the cleaning kit is cheap and lasts for a few cleanings. If I end up not driving my car for a while, then I will clean it every 4-6 months.
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Walt White Coupe
The whole point is very simple. The stock filters are the best for air filtration. The K&N will have a greater airflow and more dirt passes into your engine and ultimately into your oil. Not good. So for maybe, and that's a big maybe, you might get 10 horsepower and you have to mess with the filter and oil it. The stock is good for 50,000 miles under normal conditions. Most of you will never see 50,000 miles on your car. As an engineer that knows a few things about engine wear, I'd never buy a used car that had used one of these inferior filters. Is 10 hp that important?
Agreed. It doesn't make any sense to use an air filter that will allow dirt to pass. If someone really needs the extra horsepower, swap the K&N in at the track. BTW, the best flowing filter is no filter!
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jpuli28
Anyone comment on the dry "performance" filters?
Found a study that showed oiled flows better than dry. Thanks all for your input!
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