Why no low lift cams?

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Oct 5, 2011 | 05:48 PM
  #1  
Sorry for starting another cam topic. There is no shortage of proven cams out there that post great numbers but most are associated with moderate to higher lift which requires tougher springs or doubles. The cost of higher pressure or double springs aside from price is noise, more maintenance, and greater chance for failure. With that said I see many on the forum trying to stick a ls6 or ZR1 cam in their ls2 to avoid the the high lift problem. Of course these options don't give best bang for the buck and those posters get flamed for wasting their money. What i don't see is anyone in response giving a recommendation to use a cam such as a 224/228 114 with only .550 lift. It would perform much better than a ZR1 or LS6 cam and still retain their desired low lift attributes while optimizing a header equipped car. That cam may only add another 25 HP but it wouldn't come with any additional risks associated with the higher lift. It should be stock quiet and just as reliable as stock using stock springs. Add fast intake and wouldn't you get 40 to 50 rwhp? You would still be below $2,000 if you do all the work yourself short of a tune. That seems reasonable. Is my thinking crazy?
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Oct 5, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #2  
Quote: Sorry for starting another cam topic. There is no shortage of proven cams out there that post great numbers but most are associated with moderate to higher lift which requires tougher springs or doubles. The cost of higher pressure or double springs aside from price is noise, more maintenance, and greater chance for failure. With that said I see many on the forum trying to stick a ls6 or ZR1 cam in their ls2 to avoid the the high lift problem. Of course these options don't give best bang for the buck and those posters get flamed for wasting their money. What i don't see is anyone in response giving a recommendation to use a cam such as a 224/228 114 with only .550 lift. It would perform much better than a ZR1 or LS6 cam and still retain their desired low lift attributes while optimizing a header equipped car. That cam may only add another 25 HP but it wouldn't come with any additional risks associated with the higher lift. It should be stock quiet and just as reliable as stock using stock springs. Add fast intake and wouldn't you get 40 to 50 rwhp? You would still be below $2,000 if you do all the work yourself short of a tune. That seems reasonable. Is my thinking crazy?
Stock springs are made to handle very slow and lazy (non performance oriented) OEM camshafts. The Yellow OEM springs may handle .570" lift but they are not a performance spring. They are designed with stresses to last 100K miles on a crapy cam.

That said, aftermarket cams have fast ramp rates and are actually a "performance" cam that the yellow springs may be able to handle the amount of lift a small aftermarket cam has statically, but dynamically the spring isnt designed with valve control in mind.

There are several Comp low lift cams, but you should still run the 918s. Heck I ran 918s on my .621 lift cam without issues as well, so you dont always need dual springs.
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Oct 5, 2011 | 09:39 PM
  #3  
Thanks for the reply. I didn't consider ramp rate. That makes perfect sense.
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Oct 5, 2011 | 10:25 PM
  #4  
That was the attraction of the original Thunder Racing 224 cam. It had quick rates, but max lift was around .550 making it easier on springs. There are available lobes that aren't as brutal as some, but still have good lift such as the EPS lobes.

A typical vette sees 5k - 10k miles per year so changing springs at 25k miles isn't too big a cost to pay, especially with some of the lesser expensive quality springs available.
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