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Broken header bolt/ head removal?

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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 12:28 AM
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Default Broken header bolt/ head removal?

I hate myself and yes it was the one farthest in the back. end rant. Anyways theres a relatively good amount sticking out. However stud remover didnt work only bent it a bit to the side. Squaring it with a file and using vice grips hasnt done the job either. Tomorrow we will try to get a grinder and square it as much as possible. I really dont want to take that head off since they were done by callaway. If i do what would i have to do gasket wise? Im kind of new to this area so bare with me. Will the gasket say what size it is if it has to be replaced or someone be able to tell me? Any other suggestons? Again remember its the back one so its hard to access.

Thanks
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 07:37 AM
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Spray some PB Blaster and let it sit overnight - that may loosen up things for you. If there is Loctite on the bolt, you could try heating with a torch. Loctite will melt or soften at 400* F
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 11:42 AM
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OK take a nut...place it over the broken bolt....weld inside (inside... the treaded section of the nut) the nut so it attaches to the broken bolt...use wrench on nut to remove bolt.

Good luck.
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 01:41 PM
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How did it break? Overtorque?
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 01:49 PM
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I have used PB, and Kroil (maybe misspelled) is much better, the best stuff I have ever used and you don't have to wait overnight. Oh, and welding the nut is a very good idea, than use the Kroil to increase your chances of getting it out.

Hold the nut in place over the broken bolt stub with needle nose vise grips if needed and use a tig torch without filler to fuse the nut and stub together, let cool than squirt on some kroil (or whatever) and let stand for a while than slowly give it a try and keep your fingers crossed.

Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; Oct 19, 2011 at 02:07 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 03:04 PM
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If anti-sieze wasn't used when the bolt was installed, it wouldn't surprise me to hear the head has to come off. The bolt likely siezed in the head and will require extra attention to get it out.

I had a bolt break in an aluminum Harley engine case. I tried to drill the bolt but the drill slipped and the drill bolt snapped. I ended up having to take the case to a machine shop that had an Ultrasonic "blaster". This piece of equipment "pulverized" the drill bit and the bolt w/o impacting the aluminum at all.
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 05:04 PM
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Guys we got it out !. Took a whole hour. I had done the pb blaster overnight and that had not helped much. We grinded that sucker till it looked like a flat head screw tip. Then slowly but steadily it started to move with locking vice grips (only locked, it would not even budge otherwise). Put a new bolt in the back and all i have left to do is tightened them all back.


Thanks for the comments everyone. This was a scary situation
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 05:12 PM
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Good to hear!
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by SUB VETTE
How did it break? Overtorque?
i think it was a combination of crossthreading and using a big ratchet. I suspected the guy was putting to much effort in getting that bolt in but it was to late when i reacted.

Thats another thing i would never use anything bigger than a normal ratchet and forget about torque specs. As long as its tight leave it alone. Nothing will happen like that and if by some .00001% chance a bolt falls off just get another one in. It will be a lot easier and safer than risking pulling a head and whatnot
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 09:47 PM
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glad that you got it out!
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 04:02 AM
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Before you put the new stud in be sure the rethread the hole. Then use high-temperature NeverSeize on the new stud.

NeverSeize is magic stuff.
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by rmarks
Before you put the new stud in be sure the rethread the hole. Then use high-temperature NeverSeize on the new stud.

NeverSeize is magic stuff.
It's Magic!!
also in the future get ARP Exh stud kit, finger tight the studs and very easy removal.
don't forget to Torque to Specs!!
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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 12:24 PM
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Outstanding news.
I would have bet that particular head was going to be coming off.
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Old Oct 21, 2011 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pmj341
It's Magic!!
also in the future get ARP Exh stud kit, finger tight the studs and very easy removal.
don't forget to Torque to Specs!!
pmj341:
Do you know the part # for the ARP stud kit? For LS2 in my case, but I imagine LS3 is same.
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Old Oct 21, 2011 | 07:31 PM
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Stainless Stud kit

ARP 434-1301
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Old Oct 22, 2011 | 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
Stainless Stud kit

ARP 434-1301
thanks for the info
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