That's probably very true.

 

This is priceless and thorough. It would take me a day to figure out these formulas and symbols. Glad someone out there tackled this. Thank you.

 

More fire wood to keep this thread burning
07 LS2 M6 Kooks 1 7/8" catless , vararam LS3 style w/lot maf, steel flywheel, Z06 diff, factory tires, little to no wax on the car 387/380 then added ported 102 405/407 corrected

 

That thing would be a beast if you waxed it!

 

sorry i thought mine went that high but it only goes up to about 6600, it pretty much levels off at 6000 until 6500.

here it is anyway

 

do you honestly believe what you type? they don't make power above 23/24 degrees? I am not %100 but stock timing is 22-24 degrees, are you saying getting a tune is a waste? So my car should make more power on the stock tune?

i am getting my info from the dyno and proven (to people in my area) performance. It would really be a waste to try and convince you out of your current way of thinking but man you have a good bit to learn..

How can you say that i wouldn't have that time if were spinning? it happen like it happen i really can't convince you otherwise but it did.. and i can mail you my old master cylinder after i change it so you can witness the massive turd that it is if you would like..

God, where have you been this whole time.. Thank you for being one of the few people on here that know what you are saying. Shifting 300 rpm after the peak curve happens put me at a better rpm in the next gear so my car is faster, it works, it's proven, and i really don't see how someone can find that so hard to comprehend.. Shifting right at your cars peak hp is not driving it to its potential.. also my power starts to dip over right at 6600rpm so the 7k shift point is right where it needs to be..

why are you so afraid of rpm? you'd probably run a better time if you raised your limiter..

it does not make peak power at 7k but it makes more than it would if i shifted at 6500, peak is at 6600 so shifting a few hundred over that put me in a better power range than shifting early.. pretty much comon sense..

Also, the last engine i sold because the harmonic ballancer came off due to the faulty gm bolt and it took the threads with it, I had plans of building a 418 but i found out that i was having a kid so i bought a stock ls2 for a good price from a friend of mine, it is completely stock out of a tbss... don't make an assumption with no knowledge of the situation.. the engine i pulled out was running perfect and had no compression loss before i sold it, the springs and everything were fine and to this day it is running fine with a rethreaded crank, after 68,000 hard miles and being shifted hundreds of times at 7k+rpm..

 

I'm not, but my stock valve springs, first designed for the LS6 motor over 10 years ago, might be.
I mean, if 7000rpms is ok then why not 7100, how about 7300?
Not sure why you changed out your rod bolts, the stock ones should be fine to 7600 as I've seen a few people do that as well (with CATASTROPHIC results of course LOL).

The word 'limitations' exists for a reason.




You may be right, I've even been tempted to raise my rev limiter and shift points to 6800 or so as my set up does appear to still be making some power after 6500...but then I'd have to change the springs out if I expected them to continue to perform properly after that and I want to remain in the true 'stock internals/bolt ons only' world for now.
Having been in and around the LSx performance/racing scene since 1998, I've seen what happens (both on the dyno AND at the drag strip) to over revved stock springs FAR too many times to subject my valvetrain to that.

 

Please can we let this die? The OP has no dyno sheets, no time slips, an excuse for every request for proof, and then precedes to tell the fastest bolt on LS2's that they are doing everything all wrong.
The LS2 isn't new, and there is certainly nothing mystical to his alleged combo. The ongoing debate with this troll is knocking down more useful threads. We all know the restrictions in the LS2. We all know what it will and won't do.
How so many can entertain this garbage is beyond me.

 

1. because 7000 does not equal 7100 or 7200 or 7300.. Heck your reving yours to 6500 so why not 10,000 and if you do 10,000 why not 20,000??? and i changed out the rodbolts because while i had the engine out of the car it was the perfect opportunity to change the oem ones with some that support my future plans..



Nope... and dyno sheets soon to come with the correction..
I don't see why you all accept a stock tune ls3 with a callaway honker and nothing else to put down 405 but you can't comprehend a ls2 with a good bit more done to it to put down more power..

You sir are the troll on this thread, it is intertaining, fun, and factual.. What's not to love?

 

What is "intertaining", fun, or factual about any of this? You are ignorant and come up with ridiculous excuses and hypothetical situations. As far as you having "a good bit more done" to your car, your mods are basic and poorly planned out. 30* of timing huh? More timing always makes more power?! Do you even own a corvette?! You've spent 9 pages dancing around like a retard on his birthday spewing nonsense. For instance I find it funny that your clutch prevents you from taking it to a track, but it's going to hold up to your 430 rwhp car on the dyno?! Get a clue.

 

Ok, where to begin... Well the fun, and intertaining part is my opinion, and the factual part is factual, as in it can not be disputed what mods are done to my car, what the dyno said and the tune..

Next, what makes me ignorant? Please, explain yourself..

Then, i do agree about my mods being basic, but how are they poorly planned out? The countless hours of reading or real world experiance that i used to determine the exact parts that i bought?

And yes 30 degrees of timing, and usually more timing does mean more power to a certain point.. and in this situation 30* being on the limit is certainly producing more power than people running less timing. case and point; look at the power my car made vs others..

How have i been dancing around? God, you have got to be the most dumb person on here, i said my master or slave cylinder is the problem, the "clutch" is fine, the pedal is sticking to the floor under high rpm shifts.. are you really absolutely retarded? how would that prevent a dyno pull? have you ever had your car on a dyno, have you ever been around a dyno? the pedal sticking to the floor hinders my track performance, it is a ls7 clutch i'm pretty sure it can hold a measely 430whp.. you seem to be the one that needs a clue, heck i don't even think a clue is going to save you.. go do some research and quit trolling my thread..kthanksbye..

 

Facts are substantiated. You are making wild claims. Calling your statements facts shows your ignorant. People logically do an UD pulley when they do a cam. Small gains, but it's a "while I'm there mod". The LS2 manifold is the worst manifold made next to the LS1. Yep I've had my car on a dyno and street while Formatto tuned it... and my other Vette.... and my previous 1000hp Tahoe. Talking to you is like talking to an idiot who completed his education at 3rd grade. If total timing is what makes the most power you should become a pro tuner. Look at the fastest LS2's. Get a clue

 

This thread has made me hungry for Two all-beef patties, special sauce lettuce cheese pickles onions on a sesame seed bun!

 

I can not believe this thread is still going

I guess we'll have to wait until the OP revs one time too many over 7K

 

oh, so you are saying i have a cam? are you using your super "pay someone to build my car" powers to determine this? you know nothing, you pointing out how the ls2 manifold performs is a moot point as you are spreading common knowledge and i never hinted at the ls2 manifold being good in ANY way..

People also logically replace the heavy, prone to failure, doodoo stock dampner with an underdrive when the oem unit flys off and they are putting an engine back into the car.

Tell me where do you get your infinite wealth of knowledge from, and what makes you think you are so smart? the fact that you had a 1000hp tahoe? To me that just shows your ignorance, wasting money on buliding a 1000hp vehicle that weighs as much as a small bus when you could have easily chosen a cheaper, nicer, lighter platform that comes with a more capable engine stock, aka tbss...

please, again, gtfo and go do some reading then come back.. .

That does sound good, terrible for you, but delicious..

 

OP, good luck when you make it to the track. You're assertions will be put to the test, and who knows, maybe you'll take down the current record holders in the LS2 bolt on list.

 

If you knew anything about tuning, you'd know it's not limited to just adjusting the timing parameters.

 

Meh, i doubt it, i have no suspension, no weight reduction, and no bigs and littles... heck i gotta get some tires, I think ill get a mid 11 second pass..

omg... Where did i say power=timing? What i did say is that my current tune is pretty agressive and timing is a MAJOR factor when it comes to power. Also, i never said i tuned my car or that i was a master tuner, just that i know the jist (sp*) of it..

why don't you go break the torque tube in your car agian and quit trolling on my thread?

dyno sheet coming soon.. btw.

 

I'm in agreement with you. The OP cant spell "entertaining" (intertaining* OPs spelling error) nor "experiance" (experiance* OPs spelling error). He doesn't know the difference between an LS2 and a LS3 and is ignorant enough to question us as to how we believe a bolton LS3 can make 400+rwhp but an LS2 can't. He clearly thinks a tune is isolated to just tinkering with the timing and he's rebutting against seasoned members with proven 10sec timeslips with his asinine ideology. He has yet to post a dyno slip and makes excuses for his shoddy track times. This guy (OP) is a joke! LOL maybe if he revs to 7600 rpms he'll hit 130+ traps. LOL!

 

We have a Troll......Perma Ban!