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I believe that originally GM used 33mm nuts in production but changed to 34mm. Don't know the date they made the running production change. The nuts(and locktite) that come over the parts counter are 34mm.
33mm =1.299"
34mm =1.339
1 5/16" =1.313"
As you can see the 1 5/16" socket is .014" larger then a 33mm nut but too small(by .026") to fit the 34mm nut.
I have found that since the hex on the axle nuts is sloppy you will need both 33mm and 34mm 1/2 inch drive sockets. 1 and 5/16 inch is 33mm. Buy two new axle nuts from the dealer PN 10257766. Pop off the rear wheel center caps with a small screw driver. You may have to remove the axle nut to thoroughly clean off the rust from the threads. Reinstall the nut and torque to 118 lb-ft dynamic. Install one of the new axle nuts on top of the old nut and torque it to 100 lb-ft dymamic. Replace the wheel center cap and you are finished. Do the same to the other rear wheel. I marked the axle threads and the top nut on my car 32,000 miles ago, with a paint pen, and they have not moved. Static torque is higher than dynamic torque so you can not retest the fastener and there is no need to. Google Nordlock and you will find Fastenall. I believe the 1.1" ID x 1.9" OD washers are about as expensive as the axle nuts from the dealer when you factor in shipping. Do not get torque happy with this joint. Follow the above directions and forget it.
I believe that originally GM used 33mm nuts in production but changed to 34mm. Don't know the date they made the running production change. The nuts(and locktite) that come over the parts counter are 34mm.
33mm =1.299"
34mm =1.339
1 5/16" =1.313"
As you can see the 1 5/16" socket is .014" larger then a 33mm nut but too small(by .026") to fit the 34mm nut.
after researching the topic this morning, that was what I was afraid of having to deal with.
I guess it might be smarter to just get a 1 5/16 and a 34 just in case.
Just to add to the confusion - autozone had replacement nuts that were listed as something like m27...
Ive got 5 days till my drivetrain warranty is up so I want to torque the nuts today and see if it cures anything. Then (if it works) go back and redo it with new nuts and loctite and/or nordlocks. My biggest fear is that the nuts are tight but the axle splines could be messed up (causing the clicking problem) and then I miss out on the drivetrain warranty deadline to get the axles or shafts replaced (not totally sure what they do for that issue)...
I'm getting ready to do this fix on my '05 but I've got copies of two TSBs with different torque settings.....one at 140 ft lbs & another at 160 ft lbs. Anyone know which is correct?
I'm getting ready to do this fix on my '05 but I've got copies of two TSBs with different torque settings.....one at 140 ft lbs & another at 160 ft lbs. Anyone know which is correct?
I tried to get a definitive answer here and didn't succeed. But the best guess is that 140 lb/ft is correct. When they did the bulletin on my car, the spec may have been 160, haven't been able to get any real info on whether that is true or whether that much overtorque would be dangerous.
Maybe someone will post the effective dates of the different bulletins and associated torque numbers. Or do your copies have publication dates?
Unless something has changed since this was posted in '09, 07 MontRedCp's referred thread has Talon90's post; here it is in quotes:
"
Old 02-23-2010, 02:39 PM #39
talon90
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2005 Chevrolet Corvette
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmie jam So Paul,
if i have not checked the nuts on my 07 (4,500mi) i should just check the TQ and tighten if loose. OR, if loose should i just purchase two new nuts and install them with Locktite to 118? this is getting confusing. maybe i'm just dumb .
jimmie jam, the only dumb question is the one not asked.
Don't try to torque them from the state that they are in.
You should check to see if your spindle nuts are loose. Check by hand or by just using a wrench. Don't specifically try to tighten or loosen, just see if they are loose.
If you find them to be obviously loose, my recommendation would be to purchase two new spindle nuts of the correct part (new part) number and get the locktite and apply the locktite and torque the new nuts and allow it to sit for 24 hours before driving the car.
If you don't find them to be obviously loose, I wouldn't necessarily do anything. Don't attempt to torque them up, that is certain. Having the nuts loose is not a particularly dangerous situation unless you have a lot of horse power. The axle isn't going to fall off or out of the car. Having the nuts loose can contribute to some rear end noise but that is for the most part the extent of the risk. The hub is still attached to the control arm. Over torquing is more dangerous than too loose as you can damage the spindle.
The new torque information is specific to the new spindle nut part number included. Do not attempt to torque the old nut to the new spec and don't just apply locktite to the old nut and re-torque.
The last TSB information I could find was the following:
1. Remove existing nut
2. Apply Goodwrench # 12345493 (also known as Loctite 272) on threads in area where nut finally seats
3. Install new nut (p/n 10257766)
4. Torque nut to 190Nm (140 ft-lb), static
5. Allow 24 hours cure time.
Update 9/13/2007
Part Number 12345493. has been superceded by 89021297."
I tried to get a definitive answer here and didn't succeed. But the best guess is that 140 lb/ft is correct. When they did the bulletin on my car, the spec may have been 160, haven't been able to get any real info on whether that is true or whether that much overtorque would be dangerous.
Maybe someone will post the effective dates of the different bulletins and associated torque numbers. Or do your copies have publication dates?
I did some further Forum searches on this subject & consensus appears to be that 140 ft lbs is the correct torque setting.
I did some further Forum searches on this subject & consensus appears to be that 140 ft lbs is the correct torque setting.
Good!
But was the 160 number actually from a GM bulletin printed by GM or scanned from one, or some source that might have mis-copied something?
My dealership seems to get all of their service information from the GM computer system, but if GM was actually printing a version with incorrect numbers, those same incorrect numbers could have been in the computer system.
When the axle nuts were replaced on my '09 (one was loose), dealership tightened them to 160 ft.lb.
They used TSB #07-04-95-001 Dated 9-26-2007 Doc. ID 2018487
When the axle nuts were replaced on my '09 (one was loose), dealership tightened them to 160 ft.lb.
They used TSB #07-04-95-001 Dated 9-26-2007 Doc. ID 2018487
Is that TSB" for a 08-z51 also ? If so how can i get the TBS,.,.Thanks
You can use the link from Rebel 1 and see the old version of the bulletin, note that it has the incorrect torque value and the part # for the nuts may have changed again.
Your dealer can also print it and do the work for a price that may or may not be a good deal.
Is that TSB" for a 08-z51 also ? If so how can i get the TBS,.,.Thanks
Yes it is.
I Checked Corvette Web Central.com and it shows TSB #07-04-95-001 as the current document for Corvettes.
It is dated Oct.1,2007. 160 ft.lb. torque value for axle nuts.