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Traction: Cost vs Benifit

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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 08:49 PM
  #21  
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Tire compound means 10 times more than size.

My little 275/40/17 Mickey Thompson drag radials have traction my 345/35/19 Invos couldn't dream of.

If traction is your goal different compound tires are your answer.

The downside is drag radials are not so hot on turns and are bad in the rain due to minimal siping.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by NYC6


How much does it cost to widen the wheels and ship back and forth?
CCW's arent that much(compared to some others) and you get a better, forged wheel. Just one opinion and option.
A set of CCWs will run 2500ish?

Two widened rears will be about 200 each + shipping.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
Tire compound means 10 times more than size.

My little 275/40/17 Mickey Thompson drag radials have traction my 345/35/19 Invos couldn't dream of.

If traction is your goal different compound tires are your answer.

The downside is drag radials are not so hot on turns and are bad in the rain due to minimal siping.
+1. This is 100% accurate. To make the point on a much more exaggerated scale: there are cars running 7's in the 1/4mile on 10.5in tires (less than 270mm). Its all about the compound

Since you mentioned cornering as well, perhaps you should look into a 305/18 nitto 555R (the road race version). Its a very sticky compound with a slightly stiffer sidewall (than its drag racing counterpart) for traction in the turns.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 08:48 PM
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I have an almost stock 05 (A4) stock converter. all I have done is a Vararam CAI, 160 T Stat, and a set of KOOKS headers....

At Englishtown I staged DEEP and still ran 11.98 @116 mph I am sure if I was shallow staged I would have run 11.95 at least..

I have Nitto 555 Drag Radials, size is 305/35x18 mounted on 2004 OEM rear wheels (thin spoke) they "almost" look the same as my OEM fronts..

My point in this post, I think the OP would be better off using the same tire as I have .. granted if I go to a 3200 converter, I would need more or stickier tire i.e. Mickey Thompson Drag Radials or BFG's

But with the stock converter in my car, it will HOOK every time with Nitto 555 Drag Radials and they can be had from "Discount Tire" for $299 with FREE SHIPPING

I race maybe 2 or 3 times a month during the season March - Nov and ONE set of Nittos lasted me all season...
What I posted is if the OP plans on Drag Racing only NOT road course....or AutoX

I'm SURE after I put on a FAST 102 intake I should see 11.8x with the STOCK Converter...

My thinking is for the car to make a LOT of power AFTER THE 60' so it will be "easy" on parts, it will launch "soft" but PULL STRONG after I'm past the 60' clock.. I'm hoping to run over 120 mph with just adding the FAST intake and maybe a cam that will pull strong after 3000 rpm..

I'm open to suggestions, or criticism, but would like some thoughts on my plan ???

Plan is >> a soft leaving car that will come on VERY STRONG once I'm at the 1/8 mile...

My tires are not the same as the Nitto 555R those are for road course, I'm using the DRAG version..
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 10:45 PM
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Here's one more thought to throw in the mix. The best results are usually obtained when you use the right tool for the job at hand.

1. You just bought tires for the street, so no need to discuss that.
2. You want maximum traction for drags.
3. You want to canyon carve. (legal road course track, of course)

A pair of 9.5x17 sawblades or C5 Z06 fronts with Hoosier DR's for the drags.

A set of 5-spoke forged wheels with something like Hoosier A6 tires would stick on the road course.

10 wheels/tires to maximize performance.

You don't wear the same shoes for jogging, hiking, and dancing either.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Joe_G
Tire compound means 10 times more than size.

My little 275/40/17 Mickey Thompson drag radials have traction my 345/35/19 Invos couldn't dream of.

If traction is your goal different compound tires are your answer.

The downside is drag radials are not so hot on turns and are bad in the rain due to minimal siping.
Originally Posted by jpee
I have an almost stock 05 (A4) stock converter. all I have done is a Vararam CAI, 160 T Stat, and a set of KOOKS headers....

At Englishtown I staged DEEP and still ran 11.98 @116 mph I am sure if I was shallow staged I would have run 11.95 at least..

I have Nitto 555 Drag Radials, size is 305/35x18 mounted on 2004 OEM rear wheels (thin spoke) they "almost" look the same as my OEM fronts..

My point in this post, I think the OP would be better off using the same tire as I have .. granted if I go to a 3200 converter, I would need more or stickier tire i.e. Mickey Thompson Drag Radials or BFG's

But with the stock converter in my car, it will HOOK every time with Nitto 555 Drag Radials and they can be had from "Discount Tire" for $299 with FREE SHIPPING

I race maybe 2 or 3 times a month during the season March - Nov and ONE set of Nittos lasted me all season...
What I posted is if the OP plans on Drag Racing only NOT road course....or AutoX

I'm SURE after I put on a FAST 102 intake I should see 11.8x with the STOCK Converter...

My thinking is for the car to make a LOT of power AFTER THE 60' so it will be "easy" on parts, it will launch "soft" but PULL STRONG after I'm past the 60' clock.. I'm hoping to run over 120 mph with just adding the FAST intake and maybe a cam that will pull strong after 3000 rpm..

I'm open to suggestions, or criticism, but would like some thoughts on my plan ???

Plan is >> a soft leaving car that will come on VERY STRONG once I'm at the 1/8 mile...

My tires are not the same as the Nitto 555R those are for road course, I'm using the DRAG version..
Originally Posted by HOXXOH
Here's one more thought to throw in the mix. The best results are usually obtained when you use the right tool for the job at hand.

1. You just bought tires for the street, so no need to discuss that.
2. You want maximum traction for drags.
3. You want to canyon carve. (legal road course track, of course)

A pair of 9.5x17 sawblades or C5 Z06 fronts with Hoosier DR's for the drags.

A set of 5-spoke forged wheels with something like Hoosier A6 tires would stick on the road course.

10 wheels/tires to maximize performance.

You don't wear the same shoes for jogging, hiking, and dancing either.
Thanks for all your input guys. I'm well aware I can run a dedicated tire for straightline traction and how softer compounds = more traction. Coming from a world of motorcycle roadracing tire choice/compound is huge.
The car WILL hook with a drag tire. This I know.

The issue is what tires can I run on an 18 ir 19 inch wheel, hit the straightaway in the morning with minimum wheel spin AND be carving corners the same afternoon.

Example: There are several combined events regularly at the local road course's where in the morning you run the long front straight (side by side) for multiple runs (against some pretty high powered GTR's, Porsches etc) and then run the road course later in the day.

I need one tire for both. Swapping wheels/tires back and forth is a PIA and I would have to tow a trailer or transport wheels in another vehicle. If I spend $3k to install a widebody to mount say a 345 dot approve Mich Pilot SC (or something similar) is the traction THAT much improved? Or is there a tire in a 285-305 size I can run on stock width wheel and hook-up during the side-by-side event and still run around the corners?

Last edited by DSOMC6; Dec 3, 2011 at 11:30 AM.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 06:10 PM
  #27  
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I'm running a 305/30/19 RE-11 right now...works quite well with 527rwhp. I was looking for the same thing you were.

I have CCW's now though 19x11 and 18x10, so I'm actually looking to go a little wider with a spacer next time around.

Has anyone tried a 335/30 on a 19x11?
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 07:38 PM
  #28  
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I havw CCW's in 19X11, 18X9.5 wearing 325/275 tires on a narrow body w/o spacers. They dont rub anywhere or stick outside the body panels.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 08:29 PM
  #29  
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Nice! What tires are you running?

I'm considering 285's up front...is there a reason you went with 275?



Originally Posted by NYC6
I havw CCW's in 19X11, 18X9.5 wearing 325/275 tires on a narrow body w/o spacers. They dont rub anywhere or stick outside the body panels.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 10:14 PM
  #30  
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It looks like Hoosiers R6 comes in 245/40ZR18 for the front and
295/35ZR19 for the rear I can mount on stock wheels. Super soft compound with a tread wear rating of 40. I think these might work along with an e-boost.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by HC Mechanic
Nice! What tires are you running?

I'm considering 285's up front...is there a reason you went with 275?
Bridgestone Pole Positions. Available at tirerack and elsewhere. Little cheaper than the OEM tires and I think they grip better, less tramlining, quieter, better wearing and a little cheaper than the Goodyears.

I use the 325/275 combo as thats the stock Z06/GS tire size. 275 is plenty of tire up front.IMO.
More of them made so they're cheaper and available and suits the C6 just fine. Good enough for me.

Last edited by NYC6; Dec 3, 2011 at 10:37 PM.
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