Okay, cool, thank you.
Greg

 

i dunno about lg/pfadt or the other nice coil overs, but my stance coilovers have an adjustable lower so that your available shock travel can be maximized.

as my car sits i have over an inch of 'shaft exposure' front adjustment is maxed out rear can go more. this corresponds roughly to the amount the car can go down before touching the ground

 

Of course the lengths of the control arms don't change, that wasn't what he was referring to. The angles of the control arms do change and that is part of the geometry of the suspension. GM recommends a maximum amount for the car to be lowered based on the toe and camber curves. When you lower the car too much, you fall out of the optimum toe/camber curves for best handling.

The bottom line is to slam car for best looks but stay within the factory limits of the spring bolts for best handling.

PS I'm absolutely baffled why a person of your caliber would say "the geometry of the suspension stays the same".

 

I think we are actually on the same page here. Angles will absolutely change, but as you lower the vehicle you won't see behavior that wasn't modeled into the suspension from GM. There is a pretty generous negative camber gain as you move into bump travel... so as you lower the car you will see proportionally more negative camber for every inch of bump than you would have at the stock ride height, but for a performance vehicle that's not necessarily a bad thing.... especially with most street alignments on these cars starting in the sub 1 degree range.

As far as our recommended ride heights go we are again on the same page. Even with our coilover products we don't recommend slamming the car for best performance, unless it's a track vehicle running an optimized Aero package. We know that a lot of our customers are running really low ride heights because of the look, and our coilovers will allow them to run the aggressive ride heights their looking for without running into travel and ride quality issues with the leaf springs.

The biggest point we were trying to make is that extra negative camber gain aside, once you address the leaf springs there isn't a major change in the functionality of the corvette suspension as you lower it. Arm lengths aren't changing and positions of the pickup points aren't moving. It works pretty well at a variety of ride heights. What absolutely does change as you lower the vehicle on leaf springs is the amount of travel that's available, that's a bigger issue that's best dealt with proper hardware like coilovers for best performance.

Exactly. When you're lowering on factory leaf springs it's really a case of a little can be good, a lot can be bad. We definitely do not recommend lowering bolts without understanding the repercussions involved, and encourage users to not max out their factory adjustment. A subtle change in ride height, say in the 1/2" range, can make the car look more aggressive without an impact to ride quality or performance.

 

The Z looks bad *** man. How did you lower you lower it, did you use the stock bolts? I was considering going with the LG Motorsports Drop Spindles, any opinions on those? Totally off subject but what percent tint do you have on your car. I can't decide between 5% or 15%. Thanks