2005 Service Column Lock
12-20-2015, 03:57 PM
#21
Hi again, I have the Helm manuals albeit in much worse state after several years of use now! Absolutely the best $150 ever spent, have saved me a fortune!
I messaged the chap on ebay but he says the 05 doesn't use the ciggy lighter socket to unlock manually? I asked him to clarify but have had no response.
As you have had the lock mechanism in your hand can you tell me will I be able to 'manually' unlock it even if I have to resort to force? Then I'm assuming if I fit the eliminator the job will be as good as done anyway?
I can easily put together a 12v jumper cable so will probably just order the CLE anyway.
Cheers
I messaged the chap on ebay but he says the 05 doesn't use the ciggy lighter socket to unlock manually? I asked him to clarify but have had no response.
As you have had the lock mechanism in your hand can you tell me will I be able to 'manually' unlock it even if I have to resort to force? Then I'm assuming if I fit the eliminator the job will be as good as done anyway?
I can easily put together a 12v jumper cable so will probably just order the CLE anyway.
Cheers
To add, if you plan on wrenching on the Vet, now is a good time to get the GM service repair manual for it.
Myself, have TIS2000 on my computer to cover all the models/years to pull it up that way, but you can get the 2 volume set repair manual with schematics in books form for your year model instead.
Myself, have TIS2000 on my computer to cover all the models/years to pull it up that way, but you can get the 2 volume set repair manual with schematics in books form for your year model instead.
12-20-2015, 10:13 PM
#22
If you downloaded the link I posted, the pins C/D on the OEM steering column lock ribbon connector once unplugged from the lock module, is the two pins to the steering column lock motor to spin it both in the lock and the unlock position.
So again, 12V positive to C/12V negative to D with the steering column lock disconnected from the lock module will unlock the steering column lock when power is apply for about a second. If you swap the positive and negative wires to the pins and apply power for a second again, it will lock the steering column lock up again.
As for jumper wires, just need a 12V source, and could just use a long sections of paired wire with alligator clips off the car battery is desired.
Note, jumper kit to unlock the steering lock that is above the eliminator. Also note that the red and black wires on the eliminator connector are the ones to the motor on the OEM steering column lock connector, and the green and white wires are from the resistance signal back when the steering lock is fully in the correct demanded position (don't run 12V power through the A/B pins on the connector).
So again, 12V positive to C/12V negative to D with the steering column lock disconnected from the lock module will unlock the steering column lock when power is apply for about a second. If you swap the positive and negative wires to the pins and apply power for a second again, it will lock the steering column lock up again.
As for jumper wires, just need a 12V source, and could just use a long sections of paired wire with alligator clips off the car battery is desired.
Note, jumper kit to unlock the steering lock that is above the eliminator. Also note that the red and black wires on the eliminator connector are the ones to the motor on the OEM steering column lock connector, and the green and white wires are from the resistance signal back when the steering lock is fully in the correct demanded position (don't run 12V power through the A/B pins on the connector).
Last edited by Dano523; 12-20-2015 at 10:17 PM.
12-21-2015, 01:46 AM
#23
Got it!
The ebay chap answered and if I cannot 'motor' the lock out it is apparently possible to remove the locking pin and disable the oem column lock that way. Obviously that will involve dismantling the column.
So plan of attack is as follows.......
1. Create 12v jumper for column lock and attempt to motor to unlocked position.
2. If it works, install CLE, if it doesn't, dismantle column and physically remove locking pin - then install CLE.
3. Purchase a spare SCL module as it seems it will only be a matter of time until this burns out lol!
Cheers again, will update on progress.
LA
The ebay chap answered and if I cannot 'motor' the lock out it is apparently possible to remove the locking pin and disable the oem column lock that way. Obviously that will involve dismantling the column.
So plan of attack is as follows.......
1. Create 12v jumper for column lock and attempt to motor to unlocked position.
2. If it works, install CLE, if it doesn't, dismantle column and physically remove locking pin - then install CLE.
3. Purchase a spare SCL module as it seems it will only be a matter of time until this burns out lol!
Cheers again, will update on progress.
LA
If you downloaded the link I posted, the pins C/D on the OEM steering column lock ribbon connector once unplugged from the lock module, is the two pins to the steering column lock motor to spin it both in the lock and the unlock position.
So again, 12V positive to C/12V negative to D with the steering column lock disconnected from the lock module will unlock the steering column lock when power is apply for about a second. If you swap the positive and negative wires to the pins and apply power for a second again, it will lock the steering column lock up again.
As for jumper wires, just need a 12V source, and could just use a long sections of paired wire with alligator clips off the car battery is desired.
Note, jumper kit to unlock the steering lock that is above the eliminator. Also note that the red and black wires on the eliminator connector are the ones to the motor on the OEM steering column lock connector, and the green and white wires are from the resistance signal back when the steering lock is fully in the correct demanded position (don't run 12V power through the A/B pins on the connector).
So again, 12V positive to C/12V negative to D with the steering column lock disconnected from the lock module will unlock the steering column lock when power is apply for about a second. If you swap the positive and negative wires to the pins and apply power for a second again, it will lock the steering column lock up again.
As for jumper wires, just need a 12V source, and could just use a long sections of paired wire with alligator clips off the car battery is desired.
Note, jumper kit to unlock the steering lock that is above the eliminator. Also note that the red and black wires on the eliminator connector are the ones to the motor on the OEM steering column lock connector, and the green and white wires are from the resistance signal back when the steering lock is fully in the correct demanded position (don't run 12V power through the A/B pins on the connector).
12-21-2015, 02:00 PM
#24
Myself, the only way I would call a SCLM cooked and needs to be replaced, is after I have gone through it to check for cold solder joint problems, and the BCM can still not see it on the Can bus isntead.
Hence you have the solid state side of the board that mostly only has cold solder joint problems causing a bad connection, then the relays that are controlled to send high amperage power through their mechanical contact points to the Steering column lock to unlock the motor.
Granted that this is a RCDLR board ( since I don't have a photo of the SCL board handy), but when the RCDLR goes bad, it's either a bad solder joint on the board, or one of the 4 relays that need to be replaced instead (relays are the white Axicom devices).
Hence GM did a very good job on the designs on the boards to last almost indefinitely on the solid state side, but the problem most of the time is the solder joints are sub par, or the relay has been worked enough times to wear it's switching contact points out instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 12-21-2015 at 02:06 PM.
12-22-2015, 09:27 PM
#25
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2005 Service column lock
Mudville, what is your location.
If you are in the Denver area, can solve the problem in about a hour for free (time it will take me to pull the eliminator and the lock module, check to see which is the problem, and if the problem is in the module, re-solder the board to clean up a bad solder joint and put the car back together.
As for the eliminator, my first one was from Houston Corvettes after kfn01 stop making them for them, and played the DOA game for weeks trying to get a replacement for it that was not defective instead. So unless something has changed and they are now checking to make sure that the units are not defected before sending them out to being with, could still be a bad eliminator. Hence unlike a cold solder joint on the steering lock module that is easy to resolve, if the eliminator latching relay pins are over heated when the wires are soldered to it during the build, it melts the internal contact points on the latching relay instead (no fixing that problem without replacing the latching relay in the unit instead).
As for the steering column lock module, if replace, the new unit has to be reprogrammed to marry it to the car (Tech II programmed). Hence since the old unit is the car is already programmed/married to the car, then just correcting the cold solder joints to fix it, does not require it to be re-programmed again. Again, if the problem is just a intermediate one, then it's a cold solder joint/wire connection problem isntead.
Bluntly, with the OEM steering column lock itself replaced (which can have problems again in a few years), and a new steering column lock module and programming, would bank that your looking in the $1800 price range from the dealer. So on that note, since you know how to pull both, just need someone local to you that can give you a hand testing both to begin with, and if it turns out to be the lock module, to just go through the board to resolve the cold solder joints on the board.
Again, the key here is if it's a intermediate problem, since if the module went bad/ the eliminator was bad, it would not be a intermediate problem to begin with.
If you are in the Denver area, can solve the problem in about a hour for free (time it will take me to pull the eliminator and the lock module, check to see which is the problem, and if the problem is in the module, re-solder the board to clean up a bad solder joint and put the car back together.
As for the eliminator, my first one was from Houston Corvettes after kfn01 stop making them for them, and played the DOA game for weeks trying to get a replacement for it that was not defective instead. So unless something has changed and they are now checking to make sure that the units are not defected before sending them out to being with, could still be a bad eliminator. Hence unlike a cold solder joint on the steering lock module that is easy to resolve, if the eliminator latching relay pins are over heated when the wires are soldered to it during the build, it melts the internal contact points on the latching relay instead (no fixing that problem without replacing the latching relay in the unit instead).
As for the steering column lock module, if replace, the new unit has to be reprogrammed to marry it to the car (Tech II programmed). Hence since the old unit is the car is already programmed/married to the car, then just correcting the cold solder joints to fix it, does not require it to be re-programmed again. Again, if the problem is just a intermediate one, then it's a cold solder joint/wire connection problem isntead.
Bluntly, with the OEM steering column lock itself replaced (which can have problems again in a few years), and a new steering column lock module and programming, would bank that your looking in the $1800 price range from the dealer. So on that note, since you know how to pull both, just need someone local to you that can give you a hand testing both to begin with, and if it turns out to be the lock module, to just go through the board to resolve the cold solder joints on the board.
Again, the key here is if it's a intermediate problem, since if the module went bad/ the eliminator was bad, it would not be a intermediate problem to begin with.
12-22-2015, 11:43 PM
#26
I covered how to test an eliminator in the posts above to make sure that it not the eliminator the problem, but does sound like more of a problem with the SCLM instead.
I would start with both checking the input voltage in the SCLM to verify that it at least 12Vs to weed out a problem back at the BCM or not to star start with, and if 12V on the main connector plug, then check the voltage out during ACC and then off. Also, before you reinstall the connectors back into the SCLM, hit the SCLM sockets and the wire connectors pins with some contact clearer encase the problem corrode wire connector pins.
To be truthful, with the glitching service column lock messages after the car has started, does scream either cold solder joint on the SCL board, the problem with the main wire connectors into the SCM causing the power glitch , or back up line at the BCM instead.
So on that note, give me your voltage readings into the SCLM via is main connector pins 2 and 6 (looking for close to 13 volts with a charged battery), them out of the SCLM on pins C/D when you first put the car into ACC mode, then when you put turn the car off (looking for around 12 volts).
I would start with both checking the input voltage in the SCLM to verify that it at least 12Vs to weed out a problem back at the BCM or not to star start with, and if 12V on the main connector plug, then check the voltage out during ACC and then off. Also, before you reinstall the connectors back into the SCLM, hit the SCLM sockets and the wire connectors pins with some contact clearer encase the problem corrode wire connector pins.
To be truthful, with the glitching service column lock messages after the car has started, does scream either cold solder joint on the SCL board, the problem with the main wire connectors into the SCM causing the power glitch , or back up line at the BCM instead.
So on that note, give me your voltage readings into the SCLM via is main connector pins 2 and 6 (looking for close to 13 volts with a charged battery), them out of the SCLM on pins C/D when you first put the car into ACC mode, then when you put turn the car off (looking for around 12 volts).
12-24-2015, 01:48 PM
#27
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2005 service column lock
I covered how to test an eliminator in the posts above to make sure that it not the eliminator the problem, but does sound like more of a problem with the SCLM instead.
I would start with both checking the input voltage in the SCLM to verify that it at least 12Vs to weed out a problem back at the BCM or not to star start with, and if 12V on the main connector plug, then check the voltage out during ACC and then off. Also, before you reinstall the connectors back into the SCLM, hit the SCLM sockets and the wire connectors pins with some contact clearer encase the problem corrode wire connector pins.
To be truthful, with the glitching service column lock messages after the car has started, does scream either cold solder joint on the SCL board, the problem with the main wire connectors into the SCM causing the power glitch , or back up line at the BCM instead.
So on that note, give me your voltage readings into the SCLM via is main connector pins 2 and 6 (looking for close to 13 volts with a charged battery), them out of the SCLM on pins C/D when you first put the car into ACC mode, then when you put turn the car off (looking for around 12 volts).
I would start with both checking the input voltage in the SCLM to verify that it at least 12Vs to weed out a problem back at the BCM or not to star start with, and if 12V on the main connector plug, then check the voltage out during ACC and then off. Also, before you reinstall the connectors back into the SCLM, hit the SCLM sockets and the wire connectors pins with some contact clearer encase the problem corrode wire connector pins.
To be truthful, with the glitching service column lock messages after the car has started, does scream either cold solder joint on the SCL board, the problem with the main wire connectors into the SCM causing the power glitch , or back up line at the BCM instead.
So on that note, give me your voltage readings into the SCLM via is main connector pins 2 and 6 (looking for close to 13 volts with a charged battery), them out of the SCLM on pins C/D when you first put the car into ACC mode, then when you put turn the car off (looking for around 12 volts).
12-24-2015, 08:12 PM
#28
Again, need the voltage in to the SCLM and back out of it when it initial triggers the steering lock for ACC, then off again.
Hence if the voltage going into it is low, then the problem is from the connector back to the BCM, and replacing the SCLM is not going to solve that problem.
Also, need to see if the voltages match out of the SCLM or not for lock and unlock. Hence if the voltages match, but are much lower that the input to the SCLM, the we know that that the problem is up/down line of the relays, and banks that is a cold solder joint problem. If they don't match coming out, then the problem at the relay instead (could again be a cold solder joint, or the relay itself there).
As for the glitch problem that is happening intermittently, again, need to know that we have constant power coming into the SCLM, or not.
Bottom line, I still thick that the problem can be solved for a few dollars if you know how to solder and not afraid to work on the parts. If not, then is could be a Thousand dollars or more if you plan on just throwing new parts at it instead (same way that GM will solve the problem with first replacing the SCLM, and if that does not solve the probelm, then replace the BCM next).
It's up to you if you want to learn now to work on the car to fix problems very inexpensively (including electronic problems), or you want to have GM fix the problems with new parts replacements; the car becoming a expensive money pit in a few repairs instead.
And again, too bad you are not local to me, since I could find the problem in a few mins of testing, and repair the needed module/connector in just as about as fast as well. Hence the only slow part of the repair, is just getting the needed module/connector in the first place to work on it once the problem is figured out.
Hence if the voltage going into it is low, then the problem is from the connector back to the BCM, and replacing the SCLM is not going to solve that problem.
Also, need to see if the voltages match out of the SCLM or not for lock and unlock. Hence if the voltages match, but are much lower that the input to the SCLM, the we know that that the problem is up/down line of the relays, and banks that is a cold solder joint problem. If they don't match coming out, then the problem at the relay instead (could again be a cold solder joint, or the relay itself there).
As for the glitch problem that is happening intermittently, again, need to know that we have constant power coming into the SCLM, or not.
Bottom line, I still thick that the problem can be solved for a few dollars if you know how to solder and not afraid to work on the parts. If not, then is could be a Thousand dollars or more if you plan on just throwing new parts at it instead (same way that GM will solve the problem with first replacing the SCLM, and if that does not solve the probelm, then replace the BCM next).
It's up to you if you want to learn now to work on the car to fix problems very inexpensively (including electronic problems), or you want to have GM fix the problems with new parts replacements; the car becoming a expensive money pit in a few repairs instead.
And again, too bad you are not local to me, since I could find the problem in a few mins of testing, and repair the needed module/connector in just as about as fast as well. Hence the only slow part of the repair, is just getting the needed module/connector in the first place to work on it once the problem is figured out.
01-08-2016, 03:26 PM
#30
Race Director
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Location: Raleigh, NC
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St. Jude Donor '15
Run away from dealer
Install new column bypass for < $100
Problem solved
Install new column bypass for < $100
Problem solved
01-09-2016, 11:52 AM
#31
Where did you get the eliminator from, and are you sure that it did not go defective?
If the eliminator is still good (showing the correct resistance on the signal wires for both directions that the latching relay is switched, then the problem is either in the SCL module or connectors to it, or up line at the BCM.
As for the $1395, that is to replace the lock in the column with a new unit, and to replace the steering column lock module as well.
Hence the problem sounds like the lock module just needs to repaired (its relays cleaned), but since GM does not repair them (only replaces them), it may be your problem and they need to replace the OEM lock itself, since they will not use the eliminators instead.
So if you want to keep this repair on the free side, what is your skill level to pull the SCLM apart to get to to the relays to clean them (if the problem is not just the connectors to the module that just need to be pulled, spray cleaned and re-dielectric greased, and plugged back in)?
01-09-2016, 04:07 PM
#32
Le Mans Master
Dano523,
On my 2005 the steering column lock is working fine at this time.. Would it be a good idea to add the bypass module now to avoid the problem happening later on. Since it can happen at any time and leave me stranded, I'm thinking maybe I could head the problem off before I have it...Is this a good idea in your opinion or should I wait?....Thanks WW
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On my 2005 the steering column lock is working fine at this time.. Would it be a good idea to add the bypass module now to avoid the problem happening later on. Since it can happen at any time and leave me stranded, I'm thinking maybe I could head the problem off before I have it...Is this a good idea in your opinion or should I wait?....Thanks WW
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Last edited by WW7; 01-09-2016 at 04:09 PM.
01-09-2016, 10:50 PM
#33
Dano523,
On my 2005 the steering column lock is working fine at this time.. Would it be a good idea to add the bypass module now to avoid the problem happening later on. Since it can happen at any time and leave me stranded, I'm thinking maybe I could head the problem off before I have it...Is this a good idea in your opinion or should I wait?....Thanks WW
.
.
.
On my 2005 the steering column lock is working fine at this time.. Would it be a good idea to add the bypass module now to avoid the problem happening later on. Since it can happen at any time and leave me stranded, I'm thinking maybe I could head the problem off before I have it...Is this a good idea in your opinion or should I wait?....Thanks WW
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Standard practice on the 2005 M6 is to install the eliminator before the steering column lock gears start biding up/it goes bad; to leave you sitting on the side of the road waiting for the tow truck with a Service steering column lock message in the DIC, the car not able to start.
So yes, install the eliminator now, and when you go to sell the car with a still working OEM steering column lock in the car, you can plug is back in then.
Hence if you try to sell or trade in the car with the OEM lock needing replacing and just the eliminator the only thing working isntead, your going to get dinged pretty bad for the OEM steering column lock to be dealer replaced so they can resell the car in OEM form.
01-10-2016, 02:21 PM
#34
Le Mans Master
Standard practice on the 2005 M6 is to install the eliminator before the steering column lock gears start biding up/it goes bad; to leave you sitting on the side of the road waiting for the tow truck with a Service steering column lock message in the DIC, the car not able to start.
So yes, install the eliminator now, and when you go to sell the car with a still working OEM steering column lock in the car, you can plug is back in then.
Hence if you try to sell or trade in the car with the OEM lock needing replacing and just the eliminator the only thing working isntead, your going to get dinged pretty bad for the OEM steering column lock to be dealer replaced so they can resell the car in OEM form.
So yes, install the eliminator now, and when you go to sell the car with a still working OEM steering column lock in the car, you can plug is back in then.
Hence if you try to sell or trade in the car with the OEM lock needing replacing and just the eliminator the only thing working isntead, your going to get dinged pretty bad for the OEM steering column lock to be dealer replaced so they can resell the car in OEM form.
..WW
01-10-2016, 05:08 PM
#35
From here (kfn01), correct.
I bring this up, since some of the other guys building them have too high of a defect rate instead.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-C6-Corv...-/111235442827
I bring this up, since some of the other guys building them have too high of a defect rate instead.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-C6-Corv...-/111235442827
Last edited by Dano523; 01-10-2016 at 05:09 PM.
01-10-2016, 08:13 PM
#36
Le Mans Master
From here (kfn01), correct.
I bring this up, since some of the other guys building them have too high of a defect rate instead.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-C6-Corv...-/111235442827
I bring this up, since some of the other guys building them have too high of a defect rate instead.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-C6-Corv...-/111235442827
, the others are $89.95 and higher....
...WW
Last edited by WW7; 01-11-2016 at 07:04 PM.
01-11-2016, 04:30 PM
#37
Corvettes of Houston, or the Ebay link I posted from kfn01 directly instead?
kfn01 used to make them for Corvettes of Houston, had a falling out with them, and makes/sells them directly from off of Ebay now instead.
Hence kfn01 has had a total of 4 bad units in all the time he has been making them (which he replaced no question asked) while the first unit I got from corvettes of Houston after he left them and they where making them themselves instead, was defective from the start (latching relay pins where over heated during soldering) and took me 3 weeks of games trying to get a replacement from them instead. And now, I was not alone in this mess with bad units out of COH.
kfn01 used to make them for Corvettes of Houston, had a falling out with them, and makes/sells them directly from off of Ebay now instead.
Hence kfn01 has had a total of 4 bad units in all the time he has been making them (which he replaced no question asked) while the first unit I got from corvettes of Houston after he left them and they where making them themselves instead, was defective from the start (latching relay pins where over heated during soldering) and took me 3 weeks of games trying to get a replacement from them instead. And now, I was not alone in this mess with bad units out of COH.
01-11-2016, 07:10 PM
#38
Le Mans Master
Corvettes of Houston, or the Ebay link I posted from kfn01 directly instead?
kfn01 used to make them for Corvettes of Houston, had a falling out with them, and makes/sells them directly from off of Ebay now instead.
Hence kfn01 has had a total of 4 bad units in all the time he has been making them (which he replaced no question asked) while the first unit I got from corvettes of Houston after he left them and they where making them themselves instead, was defective from the start (latching relay pins where over heated during soldering) and took me 3 weeks of games trying to get a replacement from them instead. And now, I was not alone in this mess with bad units out of COH.
kfn01 used to make them for Corvettes of Houston, had a falling out with them, and makes/sells them directly from off of Ebay now instead.
Hence kfn01 has had a total of 4 bad units in all the time he has been making them (which he replaced no question asked) while the first unit I got from corvettes of Houston after he left them and they where making them themselves instead, was defective from the start (latching relay pins where over heated during soldering) and took me 3 weeks of games trying to get a replacement from them instead. And now, I was not alone in this mess with bad units out of COH.
..WW
01-12-2016, 12:17 PM
#39
Column lock eliminator finally cleared customs and arrived through my door this weekend...............
Keep up the informative posts Dano, I will let you know how my install goes over the next few days.
LA
Keep up the informative posts Dano, I will let you know how my install goes over the next few days.
LA
01-12-2016, 04:44 PM
#40
No worries, and when you go to unplug the OEM lock from the steering control module when you have it un-clipped and in hand, take the time to unplug the main harness from the module, and electrical spray clean both the main connector harness and the socket pins on the module for both connectors (and dab on some dielectric grease to the connectors) before you plug the eliminator and main connector back in.
Hence cleaned and dielectric greased connections, are happy problem-free connections that don't cause problems down the road instead!!!!
Myself, any time I am working in an area of the car that has electrical connectors, will take the time to pull and clean/grease all the connectors while I'm there ( if they have not been cleaned and grease before by myself instead, since the factor does out used dielectric grease on any of the connectors).
Hence easy to do a quick maintenance while you already reached the darkest Peru of the bowels of the car while your there the first time, then to have to dig back in later to trouble shoot a corroded connector problem when it decides to flare up later instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 01-12-2016 at 04:51 PM.