2005 Service Column Lock
02-06-2012, 05:54 PM
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2005 Service Column Lock
I have a 2005 Corvette with the mn6 manual transmission which I purchase new and currently has about 55000 miles on it.
Last summer I was stranded multiple times with the “Service Column Lock” error. It always happened when I parked the car in the open, the weather hot and the sun bright. To fix the problem, I would open the car doors to let the car cool down and after a time (sometimes I would have to wait for the sun to set) it would start.
Since I have an extended warranty I took the car to the dealer 4 different times, but it never failed for them and they said they had to see the failure before they could do anything.
Since the car was parked in the garage and covered for the winter I decided now was a good time to disassemble the locking mechanism and see if I could determine where it was hanging when it gets hot.
I found the following write-up very helpful in getting to the Column lock so I could disassemble it;
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...ml?ref=esp-img
The motorized mechanism is held in the column lock by three screws as well as several metal tabs bent over the back cover (the tabs are easily broken off). The mechanism consists of a little motor that turns a screw that pushes a spring loaded locking pin into place. When you start the car, the motor turns the screw pulling the locking pin away from the locking plate until it trips a micro switch, which enables the car to start. When you turn off the car, the motor pushes the locking device away from the micro switch and into the locking plate, when doing this the motor winds the screw until the body of the locking device bottoms against the gear that the motor turns.
I suspect that the body of the locking device and the gear when jammed together, both being plastic, expand when they get hot so that the motor can’t turn them. To correct what I suspect is happening, I took a thin fiber washer (found the right size in some old Holley Carburetor parts I had) and put it between the body and the gear with the hope the fiber washer will keep the two parts from binding when they get hot. I also took a small file and emery cloth and removed any burrs from anything that rubbed anything else. I then lubricated everything well and put it all back together.
The Column Lock still works as it did before I started (which is something), I but I really won’t know if I fixed the problem until the weather gets hot again later this year.
Last summer I was stranded multiple times with the “Service Column Lock” error. It always happened when I parked the car in the open, the weather hot and the sun bright. To fix the problem, I would open the car doors to let the car cool down and after a time (sometimes I would have to wait for the sun to set) it would start.
Since I have an extended warranty I took the car to the dealer 4 different times, but it never failed for them and they said they had to see the failure before they could do anything.
Since the car was parked in the garage and covered for the winter I decided now was a good time to disassemble the locking mechanism and see if I could determine where it was hanging when it gets hot.
I found the following write-up very helpful in getting to the Column lock so I could disassemble it;
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...ml?ref=esp-img
The motorized mechanism is held in the column lock by three screws as well as several metal tabs bent over the back cover (the tabs are easily broken off). The mechanism consists of a little motor that turns a screw that pushes a spring loaded locking pin into place. When you start the car, the motor turns the screw pulling the locking pin away from the locking plate until it trips a micro switch, which enables the car to start. When you turn off the car, the motor pushes the locking device away from the micro switch and into the locking plate, when doing this the motor winds the screw until the body of the locking device bottoms against the gear that the motor turns.
I suspect that the body of the locking device and the gear when jammed together, both being plastic, expand when they get hot so that the motor can’t turn them. To correct what I suspect is happening, I took a thin fiber washer (found the right size in some old Holley Carburetor parts I had) and put it between the body and the gear with the hope the fiber washer will keep the two parts from binding when they get hot. I also took a small file and emery cloth and removed any burrs from anything that rubbed anything else. I then lubricated everything well and put it all back together.
The Column Lock still works as it did before I started (which is something), I but I really won’t know if I fixed the problem until the weather gets hot again later this year.
Hope it works. Let us know. Another possible solution added to the knowledge base.
04-10-2012, 07:50 PM
#4
I had the same problem with my 2005. A g.m. tech friend asked me if the lock motor was slow when it did work. I said it always sounded fast when it did work. he said - it probably was not the lock motor. he segjested I replace the lock control module first. I just did it last week. so far so good.Alot cheaper for the part also. The big problem is it has to be programed to work. he borrowed A tech 2 and did it for me.
04-10-2012, 10:14 PM
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Thanks for the reply Jimmy. From researching this stuff the last couple of days it looks like I have a couple of choices that have worked for others:
GM Part # 88963402 ~ $375
or
GM Part # 15915003 ~ $145
Is the second part the one you are referring to? I'll know tomorrow or Thursday what the shop suggests - I haven't mentioned these particular parts upfront to see what they think too. Sounds like your fix worked
GM Part # 88963402 ~ $375
or
GM Part # 15915003 ~ $145
Is the second part the one you are referring to? I'll know tomorrow or Thursday what the shop suggests - I haven't mentioned these particular parts upfront to see what they think too. Sounds like your fix worked
I had the same problem with my 2005. A g.m. tech friend asked me if the lock motor was slow when it did work. I said it always sounded fast when it did work. he said - it probably was not the lock motor. he segjested I replace the lock control module first. I just did it last week. so far so good.Alot cheaper for the part also. The big problem is it has to be programed to work. he borrowed A tech 2 and did it for me.
04-12-2012, 05:30 PM
#6
Thanks for the reply Jimmy. From researching this stuff the last couple of days it looks like I have a couple of choices that have worked for others:
GM Part # 88963402 ~ $375
or
GM Part # 15915003 ~ $145
Is the second part the one you are referring to? I'll know tomorrow or Thursday what the shop suggests - I haven't mentioned these particular parts upfront to see what they think too. Sounds like your fix worked
GM Part # 88963402 ~ $375
or
GM Part # 15915003 ~ $145
Is the second part the one you are referring to? I'll know tomorrow or Thursday what the shop suggests - I haven't mentioned these particular parts upfront to see what they think too. Sounds like your fix worked
08-01-2015, 11:35 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
Does this column lock control module require any programming to match the vehicle, or it a straight "unplug/plug-in" procedure?
I have a column lock bypass that has worked for a year, now getting the "Service Column Lock" message again. Replace the bypass, with no avail... I'm suspected the module is bad now, and no bypass will fix that.
Any thoughts?
/R
Doc
I have a column lock bypass that has worked for a year, now getting the "Service Column Lock" message again. Replace the bypass, with no avail... I'm suspected the module is bad now, and no bypass will fix that.
Any thoughts?
/R
Doc
08-03-2015, 05:59 AM
#8
Does this column lock control module require any programming to match the vehicle, or it a straight "unplug/plug-in" procedure?
I have a column lock bypass that has worked for a year, now getting the "Service Column Lock" message again. Replace the bypass, with no avail... I'm suspected the module is bad now, and no bypass will fix that.
Any thoughts?
/R
Doc
I have a column lock bypass that has worked for a year, now getting the "Service Column Lock" message again. Replace the bypass, with no avail... I'm suspected the module is bad now, and no bypass will fix that.
Any thoughts?
/R
Doc
Bad relay/cold solder joint in the module that the steering column lock/bypass plugs into. The board can can be pulled to resolve that problem for a few dollars if you have electrical trace and soldering skills.
As for that lock module, yes has to be programmed to the car if replaced with another module, while the eliminator or actual steering column lock down line of the lock module does not get programmed to the car instead.
As for the steering column lock on the 05,
Yup, two part problem, being the first that the plastic gears will bind up over time. The second problem, by the time the steering column lock does get power with a fully charged battery, the power to the lock is only around 11 volts. When the battery is drained down slightly, even less voltage, and the problem is the lock is not moving fast enough for the module, and the module will voltage time out before the lock is fully unlock.
The way that the steering column lock works, it has a 12 volt power supply on two of its wires. Power through the wires one way will move the motor to lock the steering, and the power reversed through the same wires via the lock module will reverse the motor the other way (what the module does with it relays).
The second set of wires on the plug are sensor wires is for feed back if the steering lock is fully unlock, or fully locked through a restance reading across these two wires.
So the resitances that the lock module is looking for is 294ohm, or 482 ohms to tell it that the lock is fully one way or fully unlocked the other way instead.
And this is the glitch, since if the module times out on the motor voltage before the steering column is fully locked or unlocked when the gears are binding or the voltage is low, then the resistance across the sensor wires reads resistance instead (meaning that the lock is not fully locked or unlocked), and you get the service message and the car will not start.
Bluntly, if you still want to have the factory steering column lock in the car working, then ditch the plastic gears and have someone cut you some brass or steel ones instead. Playing with the plastic gear is short lived (same as replacing it with a new lock as well), and you will be back in the same boat instead.
Or, just spend the money to install the column lock eliminator instead to take the problematic OEM steering column out of play instead.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111224872230?lpid=82&chn=ps
And how to install the eliminator,
FYI, the column lock eliminator is just a latching relay that get switch one way or the other, depending on how the lock module sends voltage , with the needed resistors values on the sensor wires to give the lock module the needed resistance reading to make it think that the steering column is in the locked or unlock position (actual OEM steering column lock is in the unlocked position and unplugged instead).
The latching relay works down to around 9 volts and switches very quickly, so it does not have the weak battery problems on the actual OEM lock.
Last edited by Dano523; 08-03-2015 at 06:05 AM.
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tbevins (05-21-2016)
12-15-2015, 06:29 PM
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2005 6 speed column lock
Bad relay/cold solder joint in the module that the steering column lock/bypass plugs into. The board can can be pulled to resolve that problem for a few dollars if you have electrical trace and soldering skills.
As for that lock module, yes has to be programmed to the car if replaced with another module, while the eliminator or actual steering column lock down line of the lock module does not get programmed to the car instead.
As for the steering column lock on the 05,
Yup, two part problem, being the first that the plastic gears will bind up over time. The second problem, by the time the steering column lock does get power with a fully charged battery, the power to the lock is only around 11 volts. When the battery is drained down slightly, even less voltage, and the problem is the lock is not moving fast enough for the module, and the module will voltage time out before the lock is fully unlock.
The way that the steering column lock works, it has a 12 volt power supply on two of its wires. Power through the wires one way will move the motor to lock the steering, and the power reversed through the same wires via the lock module will reverse the motor the other way (what the module does with it relays).
The second set of wires on the plug are sensor wires is for feed back if the steering lock is fully unlock, or fully locked through a restance reading across these two wires.
So the resitances that the lock module is looking for is 294ohm, or 482 ohms to tell it that the lock is fully one way or fully unlocked the other way instead.
And this is the glitch, since if the module times out on the motor voltage before the steering column is fully locked or unlocked when the gears are binding or the voltage is low, then the resistance across the sensor wires reads resistance instead (meaning that the lock is not fully locked or unlocked), and you get the service message and the car will not start.
Bluntly, if you still want to have the factory steering column lock in the car working, then ditch the plastic gears and have someone cut you some brass or steel ones instead. Playing with the plastic gear is short lived (same as replacing it with a new lock as well), and you will be back in the same boat instead.
Or, just spend the money to install the column lock eliminator instead to take the problematic OEM steering column out of play instead.
2005 C6 Corvette Steering Column Lock Bypass Simple Plug No Hard Wiring | eBay
And how to install the eliminator,
David Nash 2005 Corvette Column Lock Eliminator - YouTube
FYI, the column lock eliminator is just a latching relay that get switch one way or the other, depending on how the lock module sends voltage , with the needed resistors values on the sensor wires to give the lock module the needed resistance reading to make it think that the steering column is in the locked or unlock position (actual OEM steering column lock is in the unlocked position and unplugged instead).
The latching relay works down to around 9 volts and switches very quickly, so it does not have the weak battery problems on the actual OEM lock.
As for that lock module, yes has to be programmed to the car if replaced with another module, while the eliminator or actual steering column lock down line of the lock module does not get programmed to the car instead.
As for the steering column lock on the 05,
Yup, two part problem, being the first that the plastic gears will bind up over time. The second problem, by the time the steering column lock does get power with a fully charged battery, the power to the lock is only around 11 volts. When the battery is drained down slightly, even less voltage, and the problem is the lock is not moving fast enough for the module, and the module will voltage time out before the lock is fully unlock.
The way that the steering column lock works, it has a 12 volt power supply on two of its wires. Power through the wires one way will move the motor to lock the steering, and the power reversed through the same wires via the lock module will reverse the motor the other way (what the module does with it relays).
The second set of wires on the plug are sensor wires is for feed back if the steering lock is fully unlock, or fully locked through a restance reading across these two wires.
So the resitances that the lock module is looking for is 294ohm, or 482 ohms to tell it that the lock is fully one way or fully unlocked the other way instead.
And this is the glitch, since if the module times out on the motor voltage before the steering column is fully locked or unlocked when the gears are binding or the voltage is low, then the resistance across the sensor wires reads resistance instead (meaning that the lock is not fully locked or unlocked), and you get the service message and the car will not start.
Bluntly, if you still want to have the factory steering column lock in the car working, then ditch the plastic gears and have someone cut you some brass or steel ones instead. Playing with the plastic gear is short lived (same as replacing it with a new lock as well), and you will be back in the same boat instead.
Or, just spend the money to install the column lock eliminator instead to take the problematic OEM steering column out of play instead.
2005 C6 Corvette Steering Column Lock Bypass Simple Plug No Hard Wiring | eBay
And how to install the eliminator,
David Nash 2005 Corvette Column Lock Eliminator - YouTube
FYI, the column lock eliminator is just a latching relay that get switch one way or the other, depending on how the lock module sends voltage , with the needed resistors values on the sensor wires to give the lock module the needed resistance reading to make it think that the steering column is in the locked or unlock position (actual OEM steering column lock is in the unlocked position and unplugged instead).
The latching relay works down to around 9 volts and switches very quickly, so it does not have the weak battery problems on the actual OEM lock.
12-16-2015, 07:19 PM
#10
Test the eliminator to make sure it has not gone bad (shouldn't if you bought it from the supplier I listed), and if it checks out to be fine, then suspect a cold solder joint problem in the lock module it plugs into/wire connector problem plugged into the module that needs to resolved instead.
12-17-2015, 01:49 PM
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2005 Service column lock
Test the eliminator to make sure it has not gone bad (shouldn't if you bought it from the supplier I listed), and if it checks out to be fine, then suspect a cold solder joint problem in the lock module it plugs into/wire connector problem plugged into the module that needs to resolved instead.
12-17-2015, 07:31 PM
#12
Mudville, what is your location.
If you are in the Denver area, can solve the problem in about a hour for free (time it will take me to pull the eliminator and the lock module, check to see which is the problem, and if the problem is in the module, re-solder the board to clean up a bad solder joint and put the car back together.
As for the eliminator, my first one was from Houston Corvettes after kfn01 stop making them for them, and played the DOA game for weeks trying to get a replacement for it that was not defective instead. So unless something has changed and they are now checking to make sure that the units are not defected before sending them out to being with, could still be a bad eliminator. Hence unlike a cold solder joint on the steering lock module that is easy to resolve, if the eliminator latching relay pins are over heated when the wires are soldered to it during the build, it melts the internal contact points on the latching relay instead (no fixing that problem without replacing the latching relay in the unit instead).
As for the steering column lock module, if replace, the new unit has to be reprogrammed to marry it to the car (Tech II programmed). Hence since the old unit is the car is already programmed/married to the car, then just correcting the cold solder joints to fix it, does not require it to be re-programmed again. Again, if the problem is just a intermediate one, then it's a cold solder joint/wire connection problem isntead.
Bluntly, with the OEM steering column lock itself replaced (which can have problems again in a few years), and a new steering column lock module and programming, would bank that your looking in the $1800 price range from the dealer. So on that note, since you know how to pull both, just need someone local to you that can give you a hand testing both to begin with, and if it turns out to be the lock module, to just go through the board to resolve the cold solder joints on the board.
Again, the key here is if it's a intermediate problem, since if the module went bad/ the eliminator was bad, it would not be a intermediate problem to begin with.
If you are in the Denver area, can solve the problem in about a hour for free (time it will take me to pull the eliminator and the lock module, check to see which is the problem, and if the problem is in the module, re-solder the board to clean up a bad solder joint and put the car back together.
As for the eliminator, my first one was from Houston Corvettes after kfn01 stop making them for them, and played the DOA game for weeks trying to get a replacement for it that was not defective instead. So unless something has changed and they are now checking to make sure that the units are not defected before sending them out to being with, could still be a bad eliminator. Hence unlike a cold solder joint on the steering lock module that is easy to resolve, if the eliminator latching relay pins are over heated when the wires are soldered to it during the build, it melts the internal contact points on the latching relay instead (no fixing that problem without replacing the latching relay in the unit instead).
As for the steering column lock module, if replace, the new unit has to be reprogrammed to marry it to the car (Tech II programmed). Hence since the old unit is the car is already programmed/married to the car, then just correcting the cold solder joints to fix it, does not require it to be re-programmed again. Again, if the problem is just a intermediate one, then it's a cold solder joint/wire connection problem isntead.
Bluntly, with the OEM steering column lock itself replaced (which can have problems again in a few years), and a new steering column lock module and programming, would bank that your looking in the $1800 price range from the dealer. So on that note, since you know how to pull both, just need someone local to you that can give you a hand testing both to begin with, and if it turns out to be the lock module, to just go through the board to resolve the cold solder joints on the board.
Again, the key here is if it's a intermediate problem, since if the module went bad/ the eliminator was bad, it would not be a intermediate problem to begin with.
12-17-2015, 09:53 PM
#13
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2005 Service column lock
Mudville, what is your location.
If you are in the Denver area, can solve the problem in about a hour for free (time it will take me to pull the eliminator and the lock module, check to see which is the problem, and if the problem is in the module, re-solder the board to clean up a bad solder joint and put the car back together.
As for the eliminator, my first one was from Houston Corvettes after kfn01 stop making them for them, and played the DOA game for weeks trying to get a replacement for it that was not defective instead. So unless something has changed and they are now checking to make sure that the units are not defected before sending them out to being with, could still be a bad eliminator. Hence unlike a cold solder joint on the steering lock module that is easy to resolve, if the eliminator latching relay pins are over heated when the wires are soldered to it during the build, it melts the internal contact points on the latching relay instead (no fixing that problem without replacing the latching relay in the unit instead).
As for the steering column lock module, if replace, the new unit has to be reprogrammed to marry it to the car (Tech II programmed). Hence since the old unit is the car is already programmed/married to the car, then just correcting the cold solder joints to fix it, does not require it to be re-programmed again. Again, if the problem is just a intermediate one, then it's a cold solder joint/wire connection problem isntead.
Bluntly, with the OEM steering column lock itself replaced (which can have problems again in a few years), and a new steering column lock module and programming, would bank that your looking in the $1800 price range from the dealer. So on that note, since you know how to pull both, just need someone local to you that can give you a hand testing both to begin with, and if it turns out to be the lock module, to just go through the board to resolve the cold solder joints on the board.
Again, the key here is if it's a intermediate problem, since if the module went bad/ the eliminator was bad, it would not be a intermediate problem to begin with.
If you are in the Denver area, can solve the problem in about a hour for free (time it will take me to pull the eliminator and the lock module, check to see which is the problem, and if the problem is in the module, re-solder the board to clean up a bad solder joint and put the car back together.
As for the eliminator, my first one was from Houston Corvettes after kfn01 stop making them for them, and played the DOA game for weeks trying to get a replacement for it that was not defective instead. So unless something has changed and they are now checking to make sure that the units are not defected before sending them out to being with, could still be a bad eliminator. Hence unlike a cold solder joint on the steering lock module that is easy to resolve, if the eliminator latching relay pins are over heated when the wires are soldered to it during the build, it melts the internal contact points on the latching relay instead (no fixing that problem without replacing the latching relay in the unit instead).
As for the steering column lock module, if replace, the new unit has to be reprogrammed to marry it to the car (Tech II programmed). Hence since the old unit is the car is already programmed/married to the car, then just correcting the cold solder joints to fix it, does not require it to be re-programmed again. Again, if the problem is just a intermediate one, then it's a cold solder joint/wire connection problem isntead.
Bluntly, with the OEM steering column lock itself replaced (which can have problems again in a few years), and a new steering column lock module and programming, would bank that your looking in the $1800 price range from the dealer. So on that note, since you know how to pull both, just need someone local to you that can give you a hand testing both to begin with, and if it turns out to be the lock module, to just go through the board to resolve the cold solder joints on the board.
Again, the key here is if it's a intermediate problem, since if the module went bad/ the eliminator was bad, it would not be a intermediate problem to begin with.
12-18-2015, 09:37 AM
#14
A very timely thread this one, hopefully you guys can steer me in the right direction!!!
I have had no problems whatsoever with my 05 column lock for the last 4.5 years in Nevada, didn't matter how hot it got it never failed (105k miles and counting.)
Anyway, I recently relocated to the UK (Military posting) and because of all the heat related failures I decided to not bother with a CLE as coming somewhere colder I assumed I'd be fine! 3 months in and I have the dreaded 'Service Column Lock'.
A little background - The shippers pretty much killed my brand new Optima YT on the transit which I nursed back to health with a CTEK battery maintainer. The only impact I thought I noticed was the column lock now sounded a little strained to it's normal whizz/whirr. It got me thinking about a CLE but I assumed it was probably to do with the battery being a little less than perfect.
Yesterday - nothing, no noise, no whir, just the error message and click of a relay somewhere. So I stumped up for a new battery thinking it had failed to rejuvenate itself (it was 1.8v when I finally got to it!) and fitted that today.
Still 'Service column lock'
Where do I begin? The column is locked currently and I have heard the CLE cannot be fitted if it is locked?
I am happy with my DIY skills and can do any of the dismantling and fitting required. I would happily buy a new lock mechanism but not if it's gonna fail in a year! I don't really want to splash that cash either if I'm just gonna fit a CLE to disable it!
Dano, you seem pretty knowledgable mate, can you advise my best way forward? Anyone else who has maybe been through this offer anything?
Am I the first 'cold' related failure lol? The only other difference is I daily drove her in Vegas, here she maybe goes out once or twice a month? Maybe it is inactivity that has caused this? Is it possible to remove it and clean up the mechanism for example or am I clutching at straws?
Cheers
No longer a Legal Alien
I have had no problems whatsoever with my 05 column lock for the last 4.5 years in Nevada, didn't matter how hot it got it never failed (105k miles and counting.)
Anyway, I recently relocated to the UK (Military posting) and because of all the heat related failures I decided to not bother with a CLE as coming somewhere colder I assumed I'd be fine! 3 months in and I have the dreaded 'Service Column Lock'.
A little background - The shippers pretty much killed my brand new Optima YT on the transit which I nursed back to health with a CTEK battery maintainer. The only impact I thought I noticed was the column lock now sounded a little strained to it's normal whizz/whirr. It got me thinking about a CLE but I assumed it was probably to do with the battery being a little less than perfect.
Yesterday - nothing, no noise, no whir, just the error message and click of a relay somewhere. So I stumped up for a new battery thinking it had failed to rejuvenate itself (it was 1.8v when I finally got to it!) and fitted that today.
Still 'Service column lock'
Where do I begin? The column is locked currently and I have heard the CLE cannot be fitted if it is locked?
I am happy with my DIY skills and can do any of the dismantling and fitting required. I would happily buy a new lock mechanism but not if it's gonna fail in a year! I don't really want to splash that cash either if I'm just gonna fit a CLE to disable it!
Dano, you seem pretty knowledgable mate, can you advise my best way forward? Anyone else who has maybe been through this offer anything?
Am I the first 'cold' related failure lol? The only other difference is I daily drove her in Vegas, here she maybe goes out once or twice a month? Maybe it is inactivity that has caused this? Is it possible to remove it and clean up the mechanism for example or am I clutching at straws?
Cheers
No longer a Legal Alien
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Huck19 (12-14-2019)
12-18-2015, 01:49 PM
#15
Legal Alien, Order a eliminator from the link I posted, and let kfn01 know when you order it that you also need the connector to unlock the steering column lock manually.
The eliminator install will be normal, but when you unplug the steering column lock connector from the module, the supplied jumper will plug in the male connector on the OEM steering column lock connector and you will plug the other end of the jumper into the cigarette lighter for a second to unlock the OEM steering column lock. Once the wheel with turn freely and the steering column lock is unlocked, then the jumper is removed and no longer used.
As for the long version,
http://www.mediafire.com/view/oaa02e...ck_diagram.pdf
http://www.mediafire.com/view/u9c0m5...tor_wiring.pdf
Pin A and B on the 4-Way F Metri-Pack 150 Series (BK) are the ohm sensor pins for the sensor feed back of the steering column lock position.
Pins C and D are the 12v voltage to drive the motor.
So 12V positive to pin C -12V negative to pin D will turn the motor in the direction to unlock the steering column lock. When the polarity is reverses through C (now 12v negative) and D (now 12V positive) , then then the lock motor will turn in in the other direction to locks the steering column lock instead.
Back on pin A and B, when the steering column is in the fully unlocked postion, the Ohm reading through the two should be 295ohms. When the lock is in the fully locked position, then the reading should be 487ohm instead (not reading resistance through the pins until the lock is either fully locked or unlocked).
So the common problem, the motor gears in the lock start to bind up over just use/time, and when the module sends the needed power to lock or unlock the steering lock, the steering lock does not get in the needed position fast enough to send back the correct ohm resistance on the sensor wires, the module will time out and kill the power to the lock motor to not over heat the sending relays, and display the column lock service error in the DIC.
The second common problem, the battery does not have enough power/is not getting it's full voltage to the car/module due to bad battery wiring connector problems, and just not sending enough voltage to cycle the motor quickly instead. Hence when the battery is at 13.5 volts, the voltage at the module is about 11.7 volts that is being send to the motor to begin with as normal. When the battery drops down under 13 volts, then the voltage to the motor is down below 11 volts through the module and not enough power to drive the lock motor fast enough before the module times out and sends the service message isntead.
The third common problem is in the Module.
Here, it boils down to either a bad wire connector problem, cold solder joints on the board, or just the power switching relays on the board that sends power to the lock that need to be cleaned or replace isntead.
So the quick test to determine what the problem is,
first jump the steering column lock out to manually lock and unlock it. If the gears are binding, then the motor will be turning slower than normal (should be instant on the lock and unlock) and it the steering column lock the problem.
Next test, jumpers on the lock module for D and C with a voltage meter, hit the ACC button, then off button to take voltage readings for the second that the module will send power before timing out. Again, with a fully charged battery, the voltage should be 11.7 volts or higher out to drive the lock motor, with just the polarity of the power reverse between ACC and OFF.
If the voltage is low out of the module, then check the power coming into the module, and is should be around 13.1V volts with the battery at 13.7V.
Note, full battery voltage hits the BCM, drops lightly when sent to the lock module through the BCM, then drops down again through the lock module itself to the motor. This is the reason that the lock module is only sending out around 12 volts to the lock motor when the battery is fully charged.
As for pulling the motor apart to work on the gears, go to post 36 if you want to jump down that rabbit hole.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-2005-a.html
Hence it a lot easier to just get the steering lock in the unlocked postion, leave it unplugged/out of play (without having to remove any of it parts) and install the elimator so the module thinks that the steering lock is still in play instead.
Hence the lock module is now sending power to the eliminator to switch its latching relay on C and D pins (instead of driving the lock motor), and the eliminator sends back the needed 487ohm locked/294ohm unlocked resistance instantly on pins A and B so the lock module thinks that the steering lock in still in play and in the correct position.
The eliminator install will be normal, but when you unplug the steering column lock connector from the module, the supplied jumper will plug in the male connector on the OEM steering column lock connector and you will plug the other end of the jumper into the cigarette lighter for a second to unlock the OEM steering column lock. Once the wheel with turn freely and the steering column lock is unlocked, then the jumper is removed and no longer used.
As for the long version,
http://www.mediafire.com/view/oaa02e...ck_diagram.pdf
http://www.mediafire.com/view/u9c0m5...tor_wiring.pdf
Pin A and B on the 4-Way F Metri-Pack 150 Series (BK) are the ohm sensor pins for the sensor feed back of the steering column lock position.
Pins C and D are the 12v voltage to drive the motor.
So 12V positive to pin C -12V negative to pin D will turn the motor in the direction to unlock the steering column lock. When the polarity is reverses through C (now 12v negative) and D (now 12V positive) , then then the lock motor will turn in in the other direction to locks the steering column lock instead.
Back on pin A and B, when the steering column is in the fully unlocked postion, the Ohm reading through the two should be 295ohms. When the lock is in the fully locked position, then the reading should be 487ohm instead (not reading resistance through the pins until the lock is either fully locked or unlocked).
So the common problem, the motor gears in the lock start to bind up over just use/time, and when the module sends the needed power to lock or unlock the steering lock, the steering lock does not get in the needed position fast enough to send back the correct ohm resistance on the sensor wires, the module will time out and kill the power to the lock motor to not over heat the sending relays, and display the column lock service error in the DIC.
The second common problem, the battery does not have enough power/is not getting it's full voltage to the car/module due to bad battery wiring connector problems, and just not sending enough voltage to cycle the motor quickly instead. Hence when the battery is at 13.5 volts, the voltage at the module is about 11.7 volts that is being send to the motor to begin with as normal. When the battery drops down under 13 volts, then the voltage to the motor is down below 11 volts through the module and not enough power to drive the lock motor fast enough before the module times out and sends the service message isntead.
The third common problem is in the Module.
Here, it boils down to either a bad wire connector problem, cold solder joints on the board, or just the power switching relays on the board that sends power to the lock that need to be cleaned or replace isntead.
So the quick test to determine what the problem is,
first jump the steering column lock out to manually lock and unlock it. If the gears are binding, then the motor will be turning slower than normal (should be instant on the lock and unlock) and it the steering column lock the problem.
Next test, jumpers on the lock module for D and C with a voltage meter, hit the ACC button, then off button to take voltage readings for the second that the module will send power before timing out. Again, with a fully charged battery, the voltage should be 11.7 volts or higher out to drive the lock motor, with just the polarity of the power reverse between ACC and OFF.
If the voltage is low out of the module, then check the power coming into the module, and is should be around 13.1V volts with the battery at 13.7V.
Note, full battery voltage hits the BCM, drops lightly when sent to the lock module through the BCM, then drops down again through the lock module itself to the motor. This is the reason that the lock module is only sending out around 12 volts to the lock motor when the battery is fully charged.
As for pulling the motor apart to work on the gears, go to post 36 if you want to jump down that rabbit hole.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-2005-a.html
Hence it a lot easier to just get the steering lock in the unlocked postion, leave it unplugged/out of play (without having to remove any of it parts) and install the elimator so the module thinks that the steering lock is still in play instead.
Hence the lock module is now sending power to the eliminator to switch its latching relay on C and D pins (instead of driving the lock motor), and the eliminator sends back the needed 487ohm locked/294ohm unlocked resistance instantly on pins A and B so the lock module thinks that the steering lock in still in play and in the correct position.
Last edited by Dano523; 12-18-2015 at 09:58 PM.
12-18-2015, 02:20 PM
#16
Dano,
That my friend is absolutely superb! Thank you.
Looks like I got some wrenching to do this weekend!
It'll be some time before bits get over this side of the Atlantic but i'll be sure to let you know how I get on.
Cheers
LA
That my friend is absolutely superb! Thank you.
Looks like I got some wrenching to do this weekend!
It'll be some time before bits get over this side of the Atlantic but i'll be sure to let you know how I get on.
Cheers
LA
Legal Alien, Order a eliminator from the link I posted, and let kfn01 know when you order it that you also need the connector to unlock the steering column lock manually.
The eliminator install will be normal, but when you unplug the steering column lock connector from the module, the supplied jumper will plug in the male connector on the OEM steering column lock connector and you will plug the other end of the jumper into the cigarette lighter for a second to unlock the OEM steering column lock. Once the wheel with turn freely and the steering column lock is unlocked, then the jumper is removed and no longer used.
As for the long version,
http://www.mediafire.com/view/oaa02e...ck_diagram.pdf
Pin A and B on the 4-Way F Metri-Pack 150 Series (BK) are the ohm sensor pins for the sensor feed back of the steering column lock position.
Pins C and D are the 12v voltage to drive the motor.
So 12V positive to pin C -12V negative to pin D will turn the motor in the direction to unlock the steering column lock. When the polarity is reverses through C (now 12v negative) and D (now 12V positive) , then then the lock motor will turn in in the other direction to locks the steering column lock instead.
Back on pin A and B, when the steering column is in the fully unlocked postion, the Ohm reading through the two should be 295ohms. When the lock is in the fully locked position, then the reading should be 487ohm instead (not reading resistance through the pins until the lock is either fully locked or unlocked).
So the common problem, the motor gears in the lock start to bind up over just use/time, and when the module sends the needed power to lock or unlock the steering lock, the steering lock does not get in the needed position fast enough to send back the correct ohm resistance on the sensor wires, the module will time out and kill the power to the lock motor to not over heat the sending relays, and display the column lock service error in the DIC.
The second common problem, the battery does not have enough power/is not getting it's full voltage to the car/module due to bad battery wiring connector problems, and just not sending enough voltage to cycle the motor quickly instead. Hence when the battery is at 13.5 volts, the voltage at the module is about 11.7 volts that is being send to the motor to begin with as normal. When the battery drops down under 13 volts, then the voltage to the motor is down below 11 volts through the module and not enough power to drive the lock motor fast enough before the module times out and sends the service message isntead.
The third common problem is in the Module.
Here, it boils down to either a bad wire connector problem, cold solder joints on the board, or just the power switching relays on the board that sends power to the lock that need to be cleaned or replace isntead.
So the quick test to determine what the problem is,
first jump the steering column lock out to manually lock and unlock it. If the gears are binding, then the motor will be turning slower than normal (should be instant on the lock and unlock) and it the steering column lock the problem.
Next test, jumpers on the lock module for D and C with a voltage meter, hit the ACC button, then off button to take voltage readings for the second that the module will send power before timing out. Again, with a fully charged battery, the voltage should be 11.7 volts or higher out to drive the lock motor, with just the polarity of the power reverse between ACC and OFF.
If the voltage is low out of the module, then check the power coming into the module, and is should be around 13.1V volts with the battery at 13.7V.
Note, full battery voltage hits the BCM, drops lightly when sent to the lock module through the BCM, then drops down again through the lock module itself to the motor. This is the reason that the lock module is only sending out around 12 volts to the lock motor when the battery is fully charged.
As for pulling the motor apart to work on the gears, go to post 36 if you want to jump down that rabbit hole.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-2005-a.html
Hence it a lot easier to just get the steering lock in the unlocked postion, leave it unplugged/out of play (without having to remove any of it parts) and install the elimator so the module thinks that the steering lock is still in play instead.
Hence the lock module is now sending power to the eliminator to switch its latching relay on C and D pins (instead of driving the lock motor), and the eliminator sends back the needed 487ohm locked/294ohm unlocked resistance instantly on pins A and B so the lock module thinks that the steering lock in still in play and in the correct position.
The eliminator install will be normal, but when you unplug the steering column lock connector from the module, the supplied jumper will plug in the male connector on the OEM steering column lock connector and you will plug the other end of the jumper into the cigarette lighter for a second to unlock the OEM steering column lock. Once the wheel with turn freely and the steering column lock is unlocked, then the jumper is removed and no longer used.
As for the long version,
http://www.mediafire.com/view/oaa02e...ck_diagram.pdf
Pin A and B on the 4-Way F Metri-Pack 150 Series (BK) are the ohm sensor pins for the sensor feed back of the steering column lock position.
Pins C and D are the 12v voltage to drive the motor.
So 12V positive to pin C -12V negative to pin D will turn the motor in the direction to unlock the steering column lock. When the polarity is reverses through C (now 12v negative) and D (now 12V positive) , then then the lock motor will turn in in the other direction to locks the steering column lock instead.
Back on pin A and B, when the steering column is in the fully unlocked postion, the Ohm reading through the two should be 295ohms. When the lock is in the fully locked position, then the reading should be 487ohm instead (not reading resistance through the pins until the lock is either fully locked or unlocked).
So the common problem, the motor gears in the lock start to bind up over just use/time, and when the module sends the needed power to lock or unlock the steering lock, the steering lock does not get in the needed position fast enough to send back the correct ohm resistance on the sensor wires, the module will time out and kill the power to the lock motor to not over heat the sending relays, and display the column lock service error in the DIC.
The second common problem, the battery does not have enough power/is not getting it's full voltage to the car/module due to bad battery wiring connector problems, and just not sending enough voltage to cycle the motor quickly instead. Hence when the battery is at 13.5 volts, the voltage at the module is about 11.7 volts that is being send to the motor to begin with as normal. When the battery drops down under 13 volts, then the voltage to the motor is down below 11 volts through the module and not enough power to drive the lock motor fast enough before the module times out and sends the service message isntead.
The third common problem is in the Module.
Here, it boils down to either a bad wire connector problem, cold solder joints on the board, or just the power switching relays on the board that sends power to the lock that need to be cleaned or replace isntead.
So the quick test to determine what the problem is,
first jump the steering column lock out to manually lock and unlock it. If the gears are binding, then the motor will be turning slower than normal (should be instant on the lock and unlock) and it the steering column lock the problem.
Next test, jumpers on the lock module for D and C with a voltage meter, hit the ACC button, then off button to take voltage readings for the second that the module will send power before timing out. Again, with a fully charged battery, the voltage should be 11.7 volts or higher out to drive the lock motor, with just the polarity of the power reverse between ACC and OFF.
If the voltage is low out of the module, then check the power coming into the module, and is should be around 13.1V volts with the battery at 13.7V.
Note, full battery voltage hits the BCM, drops lightly when sent to the lock module through the BCM, then drops down again through the lock module itself to the motor. This is the reason that the lock module is only sending out around 12 volts to the lock motor when the battery is fully charged.
As for pulling the motor apart to work on the gears, go to post 36 if you want to jump down that rabbit hole.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-2005-a.html
Hence it a lot easier to just get the steering lock in the unlocked postion, leave it unplugged/out of play (without having to remove any of it parts) and install the elimator so the module thinks that the steering lock is still in play instead.
Hence the lock module is now sending power to the eliminator to switch its latching relay on C and D pins (instead of driving the lock motor), and the eliminator sends back the needed 487ohm locked/294ohm unlocked resistance instantly on pins A and B so the lock module thinks that the steering lock in still in play and in the correct position.
12-18-2015, 09:54 PM
#17
No worries, but start by ordering the eliminator, and make sure that he sends you the wire jumper kit to unlock the steering wheel.
Hence the problem could be just a worm drive gear bind that is causing the problem now, and with the OEM steering lock jumped to unlock it and the eliminator installed, your problems are solved.
Worst case, it's the steering lock module that needs to be corrected, and do see that I need to do a write up with photos the next time I have one apart and repairing it.
As for repairing the actual steering column lock, even with having a full machine shop to make new gears out of brass, even I will not take that project on. Hence by the time you replace the gears, the brushes in the lock motor will be about worn out as well; ending with having to replace the motor as well (brushing on the small motor are not replaceable, and its the same problem with the door latch motors as well).
P.S, Forgot to include the connector diagram pdg for the steering lock connector so you could figure out the A/B/C/D pins on the plug, so edited my post above to include it as well.
Hence the problem could be just a worm drive gear bind that is causing the problem now, and with the OEM steering lock jumped to unlock it and the eliminator installed, your problems are solved.
Worst case, it's the steering lock module that needs to be corrected, and do see that I need to do a write up with photos the next time I have one apart and repairing it.
As for repairing the actual steering column lock, even with having a full machine shop to make new gears out of brass, even I will not take that project on. Hence by the time you replace the gears, the brushes in the lock motor will be about worn out as well; ending with having to replace the motor as well (brushing on the small motor are not replaceable, and its the same problem with the door latch motors as well).
P.S, Forgot to include the connector diagram pdg for the steering lock connector so you could figure out the A/B/C/D pins on the plug, so edited my post above to include it as well.
Last edited by Dano523; 12-18-2015 at 10:02 PM.
12-19-2015, 06:39 PM
#18
Thanks again!
So whilst I wait the couple of weeks for the mail to come across the pond could I jump the lock myself with a home made jumper wire? My interpretation of what you have said is that if I apply battery positive across those terminals and I get nothing then the lock motor must be toast and will need replacing?
If that were the case then I could get that part on it's way also.......
Just wondering?
LA
So whilst I wait the couple of weeks for the mail to come across the pond could I jump the lock myself with a home made jumper wire? My interpretation of what you have said is that if I apply battery positive across those terminals and I get nothing then the lock motor must be toast and will need replacing?
If that were the case then I could get that part on it's way also.......
Just wondering?
LA
No worries, but start by ordering the eliminator, and make sure that he sends you the wire jumper kit to unlock the steering wheel.
Hence the problem could be just a worm drive gear bind that is causing the problem now, and with the OEM steering lock jumped to unlock it and the eliminator installed, your problems are solved.
Worst case, it's the steering lock module that needs to be corrected, and do see that I need to do a write up with photos the next time I have one apart and repairing it.
As for repairing the actual steering column lock, even with having a full machine shop to make new gears out of brass, even I will not take that project on. Hence by the time you replace the gears, the brushes in the lock motor will be about worn out as well; ending with having to replace the motor as well (brushing on the small motor are not replaceable, and its the same problem with the door latch motors as well).
P.S, Forgot to include the connector diagram pdg for the steering lock connector so you could figure out the A/B/C/D pins on the plug, so edited my post above to include it as well.
Hence the problem could be just a worm drive gear bind that is causing the problem now, and with the OEM steering lock jumped to unlock it and the eliminator installed, your problems are solved.
Worst case, it's the steering lock module that needs to be corrected, and do see that I need to do a write up with photos the next time I have one apart and repairing it.
As for repairing the actual steering column lock, even with having a full machine shop to make new gears out of brass, even I will not take that project on. Hence by the time you replace the gears, the brushes in the lock motor will be about worn out as well; ending with having to replace the motor as well (brushing on the small motor are not replaceable, and its the same problem with the door latch motors as well).
P.S, Forgot to include the connector diagram pdg for the steering lock connector so you could figure out the A/B/C/D pins on the plug, so edited my post above to include it as well.
12-19-2015, 08:51 PM
#19
Over the eliminator from here.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111224872230?lpid=82&chn=ps&rmvSB=true
And let kfn01 now when you order it from him, that you need the unlock jumper kit to unlock the steering column lock manually before you install the eliminator!!!
The jumper kit will come with a Female BK plug pre-wired into a cigarette lighter plug.
So all you need to do is unplug the OEM lock connector from the steering module, plug connect the jump female plug to the male end connector of the steering column lock connector, then plug the cigarette lighter plug into your cigarette lighter socket for about a second to send power to the oem steering column lock to unlock.
Once the steering column is unlocked, then disconnect the jumper kit since you don't need it any more (and kfn01 may want you to send it back to him).
If you don't have the kit, the something like this comes in handy instead.
Hence push the wires into the steering column lock connector unplugged from the module on the connectors C and D pins, then plug the cigarette lighter into your cigarette lighter socket for a second to unlock OEM steering lock. If the steering does not unlock (just makes noise of the motor trying to run), then switch the wires into the C and D connector socket to reverse the polarity though the lock motor to make is turn in the other direction and plug the cigarette lighter into the cigarette lighter socket in the car for a second again.
And again, looking at the OEM steering column lock connector plug straight in to the pin connector with the snap part of the connector straight up, the left hand side pins are C and D. So to unlock the steering column lock 12V positive goes to the top pin on the left hand side (pin C) and the 12v negative goes to the bottom left hand side connector (pin D). Hence with the wires the other way on the connector pins, it will rotate the lock motor to lock the steering lock instead.
I bring this up, since if you want to check the resistors on the signal side of the steering lock, then unlock the steering column lock and take a Ohm reading across A and B pins, then lock the steering column lock again, and take another reading. Unlocked, the ohm reading across A/B pins should be around 294ohms. Locked, the reading should be around 487ohms across A/B pins isntead.
Also, this also works to test an Eliminator to make sure that is good as well. Hence 12V positive to C and 12v negative to D for a second to make sure the relay is latch in the unlocked position, and the ohm reading on A/B should be around 294ohms. 12v positive to D and 12V negative to C should latch the relay the other direction of locked, and should have around 487ohms of resistance across A/B instead.
Hence if the eliminator is bad, with the relay latched to one direction or the other (or both), when you take a reading across A/B, will end up with no resistance reading across them instead.
And again, the steering column lock connector (and eliminator) is the second one down (4-Way F Metri-Pack 150 Series (BK), 4 pin, with the right hand wingy outright piece below the top snap connector part.
http://www.mediafire.com/view/u9c0m5...tor_wiring.pdf
Note, if you want to take a reading of the lock module voltage to the steering column lock pushing ACC, then off, then C/D pins will be on the right hand side looking into the female socket that the lock module itself (how the connector plugs into the module.
Also, if you want to check the voltage going into the lock module itself if the voltage is low going the steering lock out of it, then that is the first connector in the PDF download link I posted, and can be check that with a multi meter on pins 2 and 6 with the car in ACC mode with the connector unplugged from the module.
Note, with the lock module connector unplugged, and the car in ACC mode, the car is going to throw a code since the lock module can not be seen on the GM can bus by the BCM (seen via the class 2 serial data pin to it). Not the end of the world, and when the module connector is plugged back in, just clear the fault codes.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111224872230?lpid=82&chn=ps&rmvSB=true
And let kfn01 now when you order it from him, that you need the unlock jumper kit to unlock the steering column lock manually before you install the eliminator!!!
The jumper kit will come with a Female BK plug pre-wired into a cigarette lighter plug.
So all you need to do is unplug the OEM lock connector from the steering module, plug connect the jump female plug to the male end connector of the steering column lock connector, then plug the cigarette lighter plug into your cigarette lighter socket for about a second to send power to the oem steering column lock to unlock.
Once the steering column is unlocked, then disconnect the jumper kit since you don't need it any more (and kfn01 may want you to send it back to him).
If you don't have the kit, the something like this comes in handy instead.
Hence push the wires into the steering column lock connector unplugged from the module on the connectors C and D pins, then plug the cigarette lighter into your cigarette lighter socket for a second to unlock OEM steering lock. If the steering does not unlock (just makes noise of the motor trying to run), then switch the wires into the C and D connector socket to reverse the polarity though the lock motor to make is turn in the other direction and plug the cigarette lighter into the cigarette lighter socket in the car for a second again.
And again, looking at the OEM steering column lock connector plug straight in to the pin connector with the snap part of the connector straight up, the left hand side pins are C and D. So to unlock the steering column lock 12V positive goes to the top pin on the left hand side (pin C) and the 12v negative goes to the bottom left hand side connector (pin D). Hence with the wires the other way on the connector pins, it will rotate the lock motor to lock the steering lock instead.
I bring this up, since if you want to check the resistors on the signal side of the steering lock, then unlock the steering column lock and take a Ohm reading across A and B pins, then lock the steering column lock again, and take another reading. Unlocked, the ohm reading across A/B pins should be around 294ohms. Locked, the reading should be around 487ohms across A/B pins isntead.
Also, this also works to test an Eliminator to make sure that is good as well. Hence 12V positive to C and 12v negative to D for a second to make sure the relay is latch in the unlocked position, and the ohm reading on A/B should be around 294ohms. 12v positive to D and 12V negative to C should latch the relay the other direction of locked, and should have around 487ohms of resistance across A/B instead.
Hence if the eliminator is bad, with the relay latched to one direction or the other (or both), when you take a reading across A/B, will end up with no resistance reading across them instead.
And again, the steering column lock connector (and eliminator) is the second one down (4-Way F Metri-Pack 150 Series (BK), 4 pin, with the right hand wingy outright piece below the top snap connector part.
http://www.mediafire.com/view/u9c0m5...tor_wiring.pdf
Note, if you want to take a reading of the lock module voltage to the steering column lock pushing ACC, then off, then C/D pins will be on the right hand side looking into the female socket that the lock module itself (how the connector plugs into the module.
Also, if you want to check the voltage going into the lock module itself if the voltage is low going the steering lock out of it, then that is the first connector in the PDF download link I posted, and can be check that with a multi meter on pins 2 and 6 with the car in ACC mode with the connector unplugged from the module.
Note, with the lock module connector unplugged, and the car in ACC mode, the car is going to throw a code since the lock module can not be seen on the GM can bus by the BCM (seen via the class 2 serial data pin to it). Not the end of the world, and when the module connector is plugged back in, just clear the fault codes.
Last edited by Dano523; 12-19-2015 at 09:36 PM.
12-19-2015, 09:44 PM
#20
To add, if you plan on wrenching on the Vet, now is a good time to get the GM service repair manual for it.
Myself, have TIS2000 on my computer to cover all the models/years to pull it up that way, but you can get the 2 volume set repair manual with schematics in books form for your year model instead.
Myself, have TIS2000 on my computer to cover all the models/years to pull it up that way, but you can get the 2 volume set repair manual with schematics in books form for your year model instead.
Last edited by Dano523; 12-19-2015 at 09:44 PM.