I had the ls9x clutch installed in my car and I put the breakin miles on it. So after I put the breakin miles on it and start to do my usual wot pulls.Well for some reason after I do the pulls my clutch pedal would not return all the way and I have to pump it/ actually pull it all the way back to the top.

The car drives fine doesn't slip bites great. Just like after I do say a 1-4th pull the pedal doesn't come up all the way. Its also making it really hard to shift into 4th seems like the fluid is getting hot and thin. And not fully disengaging the clutch.

I've replaced the clutch master cylinder thinking that was the problem it wasn't. I took the Clutch spring out today to see if that was the problem and I did a pull to see if it helped.What happened next was weird.As I was wot I had my foot lightly touching the pedal to see how it felt at wot. As I was wot the peddle started to slowly fall about a 1in.

The shop who did my install told me the fluid is probably getting hot so I ordered some dei heat wrap for the linethatgoes from the master to the slave.I have not put in on yet but hopefully that will fix my problem.

What is you guys opinion on this problem?

 

I think you may find your solution in here...
it is a long read, but some great info in there!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ur-clutch.html

 

When you do the WOT runs, what rpm are you trying to shift at?

I checked your profile, looks like you have a bit of mod going on.

 

alright ill check it out.
around 6800.Yea its a max effort cam only car. Probably around 475-480rwhp with the last round of mods I added.

EPS 234/242 .601/.605 112+4LSA, Vararam, FAST 102 intake, nick williams 102 TB, Lingenfelter 100mm maf, UD pulley, kooks 1 7/8" longtubes, , X-pipe, Corsa Xtreme, 160 t stat, mgw short throw, katech ls9x, and tune

 

Come on guys really need to find a fix for this.

 

i would think the heat wrap would help. also have them flush the fluid out again

 

try a better fluid with higher heat rating and wrap it I guess

 

try this first
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...rvette-c6-z06/

Search the forum for additional info.
I can tell you it made a huge difference in mine. From high speed shifts, to slow release. Much more consistent in all temps. And you have a better clutch feel in the pedal. Haven't had to change fluid since. I promise you, you will not be sorry with this.

Just bench bleed before putting in. I didn't and had a defect in the plastic reservoir on top (pin hole in seem of plastic)

 

Im going to put the wrap on next weekend and ill flush the fluid. I have a remote bleeder so I can bleed it at my house.

yea i was looking at some motul 600.

I had the kit but sold it. I heard it makes the clutch pedal alot stiffer. I don't really want to make it much stiffer than it is now.

 

Honestly, it's a lot easier to push in then having the spring out with stock master cylinder. Ran mine for months without the spring before replacing with Tick.

P.S. not at all affiliated with Tick. Just think this was the best thing I've done to it. Pair that with your MGW shifter and new clutch and

 

did you run the spring with your tick adjustable now?

 

well that buy it, you'll need it

 

Spring stays off. The pedal gets drilled and tapped in a different location changing the angle of the push.

 

so what your saying its about the same push as the stock master with the spring removed. if so I might have to buy another one and just get the shop to install it for me.

 

I'm curious to see what the remedy is for this problem. I love the feel of my LS3 clutch with the spring removed. It's more stiff and 100% linear, unlike the way it came from the factory.

 

Im just as curious as you haha. Yea taking the clutch spring out just barely made mine stiffer like 2-3% and made it linear and much more predictable.

 

I think it's even lighter than without a spring.
Dealer wanted 7 hours to install this. I ended up doing it myself in 3-4. Just telling you so don't over pay at the shop.

 

For giggles can you try short shifting & see if that makes a change in the problem?

If you look closely at some of the other clutches you will see the fingers are near flat, I'm told the reason is higher rpm shifting.

 

Alright Ill see what the shop wants to charge if its too much i might just end up doing it myself.
I havent't tried really short shifting but literally the only way to get this thing into 4th is too really make sure you get the clutch to the floor before you even attempt the shift.

 

any updates on this?