My solution to high IAT is Vararam and never race when ambient air exceeds 75 degrees.

 

It will sound a bit aggressive, but here is what I do:

- I keep the engine running until it hits 100 degrees coolant to even start driving. Since my car is in the garage, the engine is never colder than 60 degrees (Fahrenheit) and it takes less than a minute to hit 100 degrees. It is usually ready by the time I chose my radio station or hooked up my phone for audio.

- Once I start driving, I drive with very low throttle input and short-shift until my oil temp gets to 100 degrees. Once it does, I feel free to drive however I want at the street.

- I only drive my car with no restraint (at the track, for instance) once the oil hits 130 degrees.

I don't wait for 150, etc. like others. I used to, with my LS2 Z51, but with Z06 and now with my GS which also has dry-sump, it would take forever for it to reach those temps, and I am not sure if it's really necessary. Sure, ideal is around 190, but the synthetic 5w-30 is already pretty fluid by the time you reach 100, and holding back on driving as you'd like until you literally reach your destination does not justify the minimal benefit in my opinion

 

I let oil temps reach 140deg before I start to get aggressive. Once up to 180deg it's game on.

 

Hard to keep oil temps up and IAT down in the staging lanes at the track. My solution is to leave engine idling and hood open. Hood open as long as I can to keep the IAT down. Engine idling keeps the oil temp up. I use my HPT VCM fan control to keep the coolant temp in the 180s. I do have a 160* tstat.

 

Holy @#$% - I misspoke. No one in the history of time has every made a type-o before. Out of all the responses one could make, thank you for contributing as little as humanly possible with a condescending tone.

Likewise to you: Main bearing clearances on an LS7 are what? Clearances in any LS, LT or Gen I motor are generally... what? How about your lifter bores and cam bearings? (hint: they're measured in thousands of an inch)

O' Forum Experts, I beg of you to grant me pardon for my type-o above! When your crankshaft is rotating at six thousand revolutions per minute, what do you think happens if there's inadequate separation/lubrication? (hint: it's bad)

Do you really think that just because your dash says "70psi" during a cold start that oil is flowing through all of those "itty bitty splaces?" Have you ever tried to pour standard weight oil at 20 or 30 degrees temperature and noticed how differently it behaves from that of well-heated oil during an oil change?

In summary, oil pressure is not to be confused with oil flow. High oil pressure does not always correlate with high oil flow. There are plenty of resources around covering this topic, and the previously linked "BobtheOilGuy" is a pretty good one for covering concepts on viscosity relative to temperature, and why this is important.

God help me if I've misspelled a word - the rest of my post shall have been in vain. Just don't hate me because I use Rejex instead of Zaino!

 

i think its some kind of unwritten rule in nature that any thread longer than a few posts will end up with some type of animosity running through it.

lets all love each other and our awesome corvettes.

 

I have a Mizair Electric WP and a manual fan switch... After a 1/4 mile run I pull into my pit spot, shut off the engine, & run the FAN & Electric Water Pump with the engine OFF.. if takes 10 min or less to get the temp from 190 to 140 deg. but the oil Temp remains over 160..

I can make 10 runs using my Optima Yellow Top Group 34....


Best thing I've done Especially if I win a few rounds, & we have only 5 -10 min to cool down... I NEVER have to go to the starting line over 160 deg... and oil temp is always over 160...

 

Jesse I personally thought your post was right on the money. I have a couple things that might help some understand how the lube system works. To start with the pump does not pump pressure. It pumps a fixed volume of oil per every revolution of the pump. It is the same whether it is cold or hot. 10 or 30 weight oil. The resistance to flow will determine the pressure. When the engine and oil is cold the resistance to flow will go up causing and increase in pressure. At some point the pressure will get high enough to crack open the relief valve. As the oil warms up , like Jesse said, the flow will increase. This will also decrease the power needed to turn the pump. I think I have said enough to find a chair to hide under. Later! Frank

 

 

Then you can never go full throttle...oh well...

 

I am in the "Crank & Flog" group. Flog time for me is 15 seconds after startup. I like to get those fast moving engine pieces crowding each other before the oil gets thin enough to squeeze through. That way, the grinding helps open up the tolerances and rid the engine of unnecessary metal. Then the oil flow then gets even better. I just have to change the oil more often to get rid of the chunks.

 

Hey, if this was some kind of enthusiast utopia - Ferraris and Z06's would be parking together, anarchy in the streets, mass hysteria!!!





A little conflict is good for the soul.

 

why can't Ferrari's and Z06's park together right now??!?! i think they would look awesome next to each other.

it'd be like a nice, tanned italian chick next to a voluptuous blonde bombshell.

also an update to my original post......as the temps have been getting warmer i have been seeing ~180 degree oil temps much more regularly. back when i first started the thread it wasn't getting above 75 degrees here in socal.