Need help with code P0480
03-25-2012, 03:06 PM
#21
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
You lost your engine and transmission warranty the minute Chuck downloaded his tune to your car. It's just that GM doesn't know that yet. They will if you attempt to get any engine/trans work done by them.
Everything else will still be covered, unless there is reason to suspect that any mods caused a problem with the warrantied part.
In your case, because the shroud was cut and the fan program was modified, you've also lost the warranty on anything related to cooling, including the AC.
By taking responsibility for the parts of your warranty that are gone and not asking the dealer to do those related repairs if needed, then there will be no reason to question any other warrantied items. The last thing you want to happen, is the dealer placing a blanket red flag on the entire car.
Now, back to your specific problem.
Because the fan connector has been a common C6 issue, try checking continuity of all 3 wires. A visual is not good enough. Disconnect the battery, then pierce the wire insulation on each side of the connector. If you find an open, replace the connector. GM # 12116243 for ~$40.
Otherwise, go through the whole diagnostic procedure in the manual.
BTW, filling out your profile would be a good thing too.
Everything else will still be covered, unless there is reason to suspect that any mods caused a problem with the warrantied part.
In your case, because the shroud was cut and the fan program was modified, you've also lost the warranty on anything related to cooling, including the AC.
By taking responsibility for the parts of your warranty that are gone and not asking the dealer to do those related repairs if needed, then there will be no reason to question any other warrantied items. The last thing you want to happen, is the dealer placing a blanket red flag on the entire car.
Now, back to your specific problem.
Because the fan connector has been a common C6 issue, try checking continuity of all 3 wires. A visual is not good enough. Disconnect the battery, then pierce the wire insulation on each side of the connector. If you find an open, replace the connector. GM # 12116243 for ~$40.
Otherwise, go through the whole diagnostic procedure in the manual.
BTW, filling out your profile would be a good thing too.
03-25-2012, 08:02 PM
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
I got it!!!! The control wire from the ECM to the Connector for the Fan Control Module was bad,spliced in a new wire and I have fan again. I would like to thank chuck for sticking with this and helping me fix this problem. I would also like to thank the CF members who actually read my threads and offered all the help they could. There are those who think that running the fan at a high rate would damage that wire and you are mistaken. That wire is a control wire and never sees more than a few millivolts no matter how high of frequency the ECM is telling the fan to run at. I hope that this thread will help anyone else who runs into this problem. Also Thanks muchtodesign!!!
08-30-2012, 02:41 AM
#23
1st Gear
Member Since: Aug 2012
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P0480 Code
I have a 98 vette, great car, have the P0480 code, Left fan not working, local mechanic said he could get it to work with the scanner. But wants me to take it to a dealer, last time I went to a dealer they tried to tell me I needed 4k in repairs and I never did them, that was 8 years ago. I hate dealers. Can this just be a relay or any other thoughts, I am not real mechanical but have done some minor work on the car myself.
08-30-2012, 06:50 AM
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
I don't have a two fan circuit but my suggestion would be to try to plug the right fan connector into the left fan (you may have to rig up a cable). If the left fan runs it will tell you it is not the ECM (i do not think the ECM has a seperate command for each fan), it will also confirm that the fan and fan module are ok. This will isolate the problem from the connector towards the ECM through the fuse box. If you rig up this test and the left fan still does not run, then you need to confirm the fan is not burned up. (resistance test of the fan coil). Also, the connector that is close to the fan has given me trouble and a few other people here, it will loosen and loose continutity through the connector, to determine this, you will need to test the continutiy through the connector with an ohmeter. If you have any questions I will be monitoring your posts and will help you through this elimination process as much as I can. The fuse will be located in the fuse box, the label should be underneath the cover.
Good Luck!
Good luck!
Good Luck!
Good luck!
Last edited by lonnyh; 08-30-2012 at 08:56 AM.
07-13-2018, 08:26 PM
#25
Sorry to necro an old thread but I'm having the same issue.
I have made the jumpers to test the fan it checks out.
I also manually ground the signal wire and the fan kicks on.
The signal wire is spliced so I checked continuity from the plug to the opposite side of the splice and it is also good.
I cant figure out where the line runs to inside the car to check the continuity of the line all the way to the ecm.
Can some one help me figure it out?
I have made the jumpers to test the fan it checks out.
I also manually ground the signal wire and the fan kicks on.
The signal wire is spliced so I checked continuity from the plug to the opposite side of the splice and it is also good.
I cant figure out where the line runs to inside the car to check the continuity of the line all the way to the ecm.
Can some one help me figure it out?
07-15-2018, 12:02 AM
#26
Former Vendor
Member Since: Nov 2005
Location: Ossining New York
Posts: 11,792
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08-'09-'10-'12-'13-'14
It's not enough....
Sorry to necro an old thread but I'm having the same issue.
I have made the jumpers to test the fan it checks out.
I also manually ground the signal wire and the fan kicks on.
The signal wire is spliced so I checked continuity from the plug to the opposite side of the splice and it is also good.
I cant figure out where the line runs to inside the car to check the continuity of the line all the way to the ecm.
Can some one help me figure it out?
I have made the jumpers to test the fan it checks out.
I also manually ground the signal wire and the fan kicks on.
The signal wire is spliced so I checked continuity from the plug to the opposite side of the splice and it is also good.
I cant figure out where the line runs to inside the car to check the continuity of the line all the way to the ecm.
Can some one help me figure it out?
If you can put a load on that circuit.... and light a light bulb thru it.... then it can carry a signal.... but just to continuity test it
is good starting point, but will NOT solve the puzzle for you.
One of my good friends taught me an electrical lesson long ago. I would die for hours trying to find the EXACT point the circuit shorted....
He said.... "WHO CARES WHERE IT'S SHORTED???? Cut both ends and run a whole new line...... FIXED! "
And Ricky was RIGHT.
Chuck CoW
