glenB

That's really just a guide

The late LS2 and LS3s have a tensioner, and I belive the LS9 uses the same one.

taken19

Got the passenger head off tonight, doesn't look pretty...











Considering parting out the intact parts. I think the cam, FAST 102, headers, and injectors are all intact, maybe more as I get the motor out of the car. Block looks to be ok, heads may just need cleanup and new valves.

Any takers?

Thinking about an LS3 dry sump for the track now. Any thoughts?

JUIC3D

That breaks my heart to see that.

glenB

Won't you need the headers for the new motor?

It would probably be more cost efficient to reuse as many parts as possible and just get a short block.

Since the valves appear to have hit straight on, I would clean up the pistons before tossing the block assy.

Belts fail all the time and bend valves and the short block keeps on ticking ..... I wouldn't be in a hurry to toss the block, unless you just wanna.

66biskwik

Looks like the pistons will clean up okay. Probably only need guides in the heads and of course new valves.

taken19

Glen, I hear that the LS3 bottom is stronger overall. Hinson has a wet sump LS3 with 8k miles for $5k (long block) and a dry sump long block LS3 with 1600 miles for $7k. May be easier to plug and play and sell the parts that are intact. Don't think LS2 headers will further LS3.

I will know more once the engine cover is off and block is out of the car. Don't have the time to build this one back up until June or so and want to get back out on the track.

Think anyone would be interested in the block assuming its still in Good shape? If so, what's a fair price?

C7&7

I just sent my buddy a PM who is looking for a LS2 block for his '01 Z06.

taken19

I appreciate that. I probably won't have the block out of the car for a couple weeks but can take as many pics as needed now.

taken19

A suggestion from AutoX/RR section say clean pistons up and verify no damage to cylinder walls and repair heads only with pushrod and lifter replacement.

How much damage is too much to save the bottom end? If piston damage is minor and walls are clean, would I need to worry about wrist pins, crank and crank bearings?

DSOMC6

SLP has crate LS3 shortblocks with upgraded Manley crank/rods/pistons for $5200 and longblocks for $7200. http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...asp?P=12535M24

taken19

I would still need intake, fuel rails, injectors. I kinda like this dry sump option. Kinda an intro to the road race sport without going completely broke.

Might be a good idea to step back a bit and learn to truly drive edited aiming for 500 rwhp again.

Question - will LS2 headers mate up to an LS3?

C7&7

I think it depends on the header. Pretty sure LG headers are all the same for the base c6, but different for the Z06 and ZR1. Kooks seem to be 05-07, 08-09, 2010-up

truckplay

I had this happen to me July 4th weekend. I broke the timing gear off the cam at @ 6k rpm and ended up with those smily faces on my pistons. I swapped 16 valves, pushrods, cam gear, cam and Katech t-chain even though the factory one did not brake and put it back together and it runs fine.

I feel your pain.

Good luck

Tom

taken19

Thanks man.

66biskwik

Save the pistons?

glenB

If it really broke on the downshift with little to no load, which is when they usually break, big deal, go for it. Detonation does more harm than those little 8mm valves.

If they clean up w/just a minor mark on the piston, fix the top end, timing chain and slap it together.

The weak link, besides the chain, is the valve. The piston, pin, rod and bearings generally laugh at the valves with they get smacked.

Done bunches of 4 & 6s w/broken belts and even Ford 302s when the chains failed, no big deal.

From what I've seen of the pistons, I'd pour some ATF on top to soak them overnight and soften any baked on carbon and then clean'em. Fix the heads, replace any bent PRs, timing chain and then reassemble.

taken19

Pistons feel like they have about a 0.030 impression on them from the exhaust valve hitting. I think it's probably worth removing block to look at bottom end. If the ASP damper created this mess, I wonder what wear or damage it may have caused to the bearings. I had one oil analysis from Blackstone and it showed high metals, but that may have been cam break in. I drew an oil sample the day before the motor blew and have been contemplating wether or not to send in in for analysis. I would be curious to see if the metal contents went back to normal after the initial cam break-in or if they stayed high, indicating other issues...