That breaks my heart to see that.
Cam position sensor failure
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,974
Likes: 14
From: Pinellas Park Fl
St. Jude Donor '08-'09 & '12, '14
The late LS2 and LS3s have a tensioner, and I belive the LS9 uses the same one.
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Track Junky
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,074
Likes: 36
From: Orlando Area
Tech Contributor
Got the passenger head off tonight, doesn't look pretty...
Considering parting out the intact parts. I think the cam, FAST 102, headers, and injectors are all intact, maybe more as I get the motor out of the car. Block looks to be ok, heads may just need cleanup and new valves.
Any takers?
Thinking about an LS3 dry sump for the track now. Any thoughts?
Considering parting out the intact parts. I think the cam, FAST 102, headers, and injectors are all intact, maybe more as I get the motor out of the car. Block looks to be ok, heads may just need cleanup and new valves.
Any takers?
Thinking about an LS3 dry sump for the track now. Any thoughts?
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,974
Likes: 14
From: Pinellas Park Fl
St. Jude Donor '08-'09 & '12, '14
Won't you need the headers for the new motor?
It would probably be more cost efficient to reuse as many parts as possible and just get a short block.
Since the valves appear to have hit straight on, I would clean up the pistons before tossing the block assy.
Belts fail all the time and bend valves and the short block keeps on ticking ..... I wouldn't be in a hurry to toss the block, unless you just wanna.
It would probably be more cost efficient to reuse as many parts as possible and just get a short block.
Since the valves appear to have hit straight on, I would clean up the pistons before tossing the block assy.
Belts fail all the time and bend valves and the short block keeps on ticking ..... I wouldn't be in a hurry to toss the block, unless you just wanna.
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Track Junky
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,074
Likes: 36
From: Orlando Area
Tech Contributor
Glen, I hear that the LS3 bottom is stronger overall. Hinson has a wet sump LS3 with 8k miles for $5k (long block) and a dry sump long block LS3 with 1600 miles for $7k. May be easier to plug and play and sell the parts that are intact. Don't think LS2 headers will further LS3.
I will know more once the engine cover is off and block is out of the car. Don't have the time to build this one back up until June or so and want to get back out on the track.
Think anyone would be interested in the block assuming its still in Good shape? If so, what's a fair price?
I will know more once the engine cover is off and block is out of the car. Don't have the time to build this one back up until June or so and want to get back out on the track.
Think anyone would be interested in the block assuming its still in Good shape? If so, what's a fair price?
Last edited by taken19; Mar 6, 2012 at 10:03 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 7,049
Likes: 944
From: DFW TX
Glen, I hear that the LS3 bottom is stronger overall. Hinson has a wet sump LS3 with 8k miles for $5k (long block) and a dry sump long block LS3 with 1600 miles for $7k. May be easier to plug and play and sell the parts that are intact. Don't think LS2 headers will further LS3.
I will know more once the engine cover is off and block is out of the car. Don't have the time to build this one back up until June or so and want to get back out on the track.
Think anyone would be interested in the block assuming its still in Good shape? If so, what's a fair price?
I will know more once the engine cover is off and block is out of the car. Don't have the time to build this one back up until June or so and want to get back out on the track.
Think anyone would be interested in the block assuming its still in Good shape? If so, what's a fair price?
Thread Starter
Track Junky
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,074
Likes: 36
From: Orlando Area
Tech Contributor
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Thread Starter
Track Junky
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,074
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From: Orlando Area
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A suggestion from AutoX/RR section say clean pistons up and verify no damage to cylinder walls and repair heads only with pushrod and lifter replacement.
How much damage is too much to save the bottom end? If piston damage is minor and walls are clean, would I need to worry about wrist pins, crank and crank bearings?
How much damage is too much to save the bottom end? If piston damage is minor and walls are clean, would I need to worry about wrist pins, crank and crank bearings?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,841
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From: God's Country, ID
Glen, I hear that the LS3 bottom is stronger overall. Hinson has a wet sump LS3 with 8k miles for $5k (long block) and a dry sump long block LS3 with 1600 miles for $7k. May be easier to plug and play and sell the parts that are intact. Don't think LS2 headers will further LS3.
I will know more once the engine cover is off and block is out of the car. Don't have the time to build this one back up until June or so and want to get back out on the track.
Think anyone would be interested in the block assuming its still in Good shape? If so, what's a fair price?
I will know more once the engine cover is off and block is out of the car. Don't have the time to build this one back up until June or so and want to get back out on the track.
Think anyone would be interested in the block assuming its still in Good shape? If so, what's a fair price?
Thread Starter
Track Junky
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,074
Likes: 36
From: Orlando Area
Tech Contributor
SLP has crate LS3 shortblocks with upgraded Manley crank/rods/pistons for $5200 and longblocks for $7200. http://www.slponline.com/view_produc...asp?P=12535M24
Might be a good idea to step back a bit and learn to truly drive edited aiming for 500 rwhp again.
Question - will LS2 headers mate up to an LS3?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 7,049
Likes: 944
From: DFW TX
I would still need intake, fuel rails, injectors. I kinda like this dry sump option. Kinda an intro to the road race sport without going completely broke.
Might be a good idea to step back a bit and learn to truly drive edited aiming for 500 rwhp again.
Question - will LS2 headers mate up to an LS3?
Might be a good idea to step back a bit and learn to truly drive edited aiming for 500 rwhp again.
Question - will LS2 headers mate up to an LS3?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 16
From: Sugarhill Ga
Sounds like Dejavu
I had this happen to me July 4th weekend. I broke the timing gear off the cam at @ 6k rpm and ended up with those smily faces on my pistons. I swapped 16 valves, pushrods, cam gear, cam and Katech t-chain even though the factory one did not brake and put it back together and it runs fine.
I feel your pain.
Good luck
Tom
I feel your pain.
Good luck
Tom
Last edited by truckplay; Mar 7, 2012 at 07:45 PM. Reason: misspelled
Thread Starter
Track Junky
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Orlando Area
Tech Contributor
I had this happen to me July 4th weekend. I broke the timing gear off the cam at @ 6k rpm and ended up with those smily faces on my pistons. I swapped 16 valves, pushrods, cam gear, cam and Katech t-chain even though the factory one did not brake and put it back together and I runs fine.
I feel your pain.
Good luck
Tom
I feel your pain.
Good luck
Tom
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,047
Likes: 0
From: Warwick NY
I had this happen to me July 4th weekend. I broke the timing gear off the cam at @ 6k rpm and ended up with those smily faces on my pistons. I swapped 16 valves, pushrods, cam gear, cam and Katech t-chain even though the factory one did not brake and put it back together and I runs fine.
I feel your pain.
Good luck
Tom
I feel your pain.
Good luck
Tom
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,974
Likes: 14
From: Pinellas Park Fl
St. Jude Donor '08-'09 & '12, '14
A suggestion from AutoX/RR section say clean pistons up and verify no damage to cylinder walls and repair heads only with pushrod and lifter replacement.
How much damage is too much to save the bottom end? If piston damage is minor and walls are clean, would I need to worry about wrist pins, crank and crank bearings?
How much damage is too much to save the bottom end? If piston damage is minor and walls are clean, would I need to worry about wrist pins, crank and crank bearings?
If they clean up w/just a minor mark on the piston, fix the top end, timing chain and slap it together.
The weak link, besides the chain, is the valve. The piston, pin, rod and bearings generally laugh at the valves with they get smacked.
Done bunches of 4 & 6s w/broken belts and even Ford 302s when the chains failed, no big deal.
From what I've seen of the pistons, I'd pour some ATF on top to soak them overnight and soften any baked on carbon and then clean'em. Fix the heads, replace any bent PRs, timing chain and then reassemble.
Thread Starter
Track Junky
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,074
Likes: 36
From: Orlando Area
Tech Contributor
If it really broke on the downshift with little to no load, which is when they usually break, big deal, go for it. Detonation does more harm than those little 8mm valves.
If they clean up w/just a minor mark on the piston, fix the top end, timing chain and slap it together.
The weak link, besides the chain, is the valve. The piston, pin, rod and bearings generally laugh at the valves with they get smacked.
Done bunches of 4 & 6s w/broken belts and even Ford 302s when the chains failed, no big deal.
From what I've seen of the pistons, I'd pour some ATF on top to soak them overnight and soften any baked on carbon and then clean'em. Fix the heads, replace any bent PRs, timing chain and then reassemble.
If they clean up w/just a minor mark on the piston, fix the top end, timing chain and slap it together.
The weak link, besides the chain, is the valve. The piston, pin, rod and bearings generally laugh at the valves with they get smacked.
Done bunches of 4 & 6s w/broken belts and even Ford 302s when the chains failed, no big deal.
From what I've seen of the pistons, I'd pour some ATF on top to soak them overnight and soften any baked on carbon and then clean'em. Fix the heads, replace any bent PRs, timing chain and then reassemble.
