CDaniel525

Now is the time to do that cam before youll have to tear apart the car if you do it later on!

taken19

I agree, it would take about an hour vs, 10-15 later on. That cam in an LS3 would make about 500 rwhp but right now I think it may be more important to worry more about suspension and the driver mod. Just now starting to figure this road race thing and less Hp will ultimately help me become faster and not rely so much on the straights to make up ground.

My 485 rwhp LS2 could hang with almost anything on the track in the straights, but running street tires and stock bushings is hurting my entry and track out speed significantly. With poly bushings and stickier tires I can carry more speed through the corners and ultimately around the track.

I still have a few weeks to think about it and the Hp bug may get the best of me. I'm a little skittish about tearing into another motor after destroying my last one... The wound is still too fresh.

CDaniel525

Cant agree with you more completely when it comes to road racing!

Didnt catch a thread on what happened to your original motor??

taken19

Broke the timing chain last weekend at Homestead Motor Speedway. Only have the passenger head off so far, but 6 of 8 valves made contact. All exhaust valves bent over but not broken. I imaging the driver side is about the same.

Gonna salvage the intact LS2 engine parts to sell including block, FAST intake, fuel rails, LS7 injectors and spacers, cam, ported throttle body, WCC hurricane CAI, MAF sensor and smooth baffle. Heads can be saved if someone is willing to put $500-700 into them (confirmed with original vendor who ported them).

Look for a recent post by me regarding a cam position sensor - it has some pics of the heads and pistons.

oldmansan

i really hate to post this, but I don't think you're heading in the right direction. The LS3/LS7 "dry sump" motors aren't truly dry sump. They're a compromise and since you've already lost a motor you might want to invest a bit more for a true dry sump.

Do a search and see how many LS7 motors have had oil starvation issues. GM's solution is to add a bigger tank. It's questionable that it solves the problem. If you're really roadracing you should get a real solution.

I'd suggest you post on the Autocrossing and Roadracing forum. You'll get much better recommendations there.

I'd start here if I were in your shoes.
http://www.drysump.com/index1.htm

For what's it's worth I've looked into this already and if I decide to track my Corvette or Lotus I want to ensure I've done everything necessary to minimize the chances of losing a motor.

San

JUIC3D

Spin himself confirmed it. I tried to find the post but I have so many now, its hard to dig through them all.

The only concern is the intake lobe as the valve is so much bigger. His 230/234 and my 230/238 obviously share a very similar intake lobe and the heads have never been off my car.

I agree about a 'real' dry sump too. You could though, start with the GM drysump and upgrade along the way but if you can put the scratch together, you might as well do it now as you're only getting faster from here.

oldmansan

Honestly, when you consider the price of an engine, the proper dry sump solution starts to pay for itself, especially if you deduct the GM "dry sump" parts from the cost.

San

JUIC3D

^ a good point

taken19

I agree with you both, but it's not in the budget right now. The wife is gasping at the price of just a motor swap, never mind all the stuff I wish I could have along with it. The long term plan is a full roll cage and "real" dry sump, but that won't be until I'm ready for time trials / competition. For now, it will still be a dual use - track and street. That's kinda why I plan on keeping this koror stock for a while, to work on the driver mod first then plan on making the engine faster.

Edit: I think in a year or 2, once I feel that my ability is ready for TT, i Will entertain the option of Hoosiers which will probably go hand in hand with an upgraded dry sump. At a minimum, this is a step up (however small) from a wet sump LS2 and I have not had oiling problems in that motor.

DSOMC6

Having your LS2 block machined, upgrading the rotating assembly to forged components and rebuilding your heads will give you a way stronger engine vs a stock LS3. Then throw in a dry sump system made for road racing (about $2k) and you will be ahead financially at a total of about $5500 with much better components.

taken19

I don't disagree but here is what I see (tentatively) for cost:

Forged rotating assembly - $2000 minimum
Dry sump setup - $2000 minimum
Timing chain - $150
Gaskets - $150
Fix heads, new rocker arms - $1000
Lifters - $200
Machine block - ???
Fluids - $100

That puts it at least $6k but I would need suggestions from you guys. Can any of you help me with suggestions as far as brands? Specific kit or part numbers? Should I just clean up the block or bore it 0.030 over?

Need help if I go that route...

taken19

Anybody with suggestions?

I'm getting warm to the idea of rebuilding with an ARE dry sump. Give me your preferred parts list. Ideally, I would like to keep the budget to $6-7k.

Need the following:

Rotating assembly
Springs
Lifters
Valves
Bore block?
Stroker?
Maybe even new cam suggestion

Remember, it is being built for the road course with maximum reliability in mind, not maximum power. Lightweight parts always a plus.

Start throwing me your wish list....

oldmansan

I would post this in the Autocrossing and Roadracing section. No offense to this section, but you'll usually get better answers there (especially on this topic).

San

JUIC3D

Good for you in considering the proper dry sump setup. I think you'll sleep much better at night knowing your motor is getting all the required oil it needs.

I know 0 about building motors so I can't help there. I know the stock LS6 is a badass powerplant and virtually indestructible so it definitely doesn't take a lot of power to get the job done.

I'm very excited for you and this new build. Good luck with it and I can't wait to see the progression.

taken19

San, you must be reading my mind - posted there moments after asking for help here. This page gets much more traffic so I'm trying to double up on the suggestions.

Thanks.

taken19

I appreciate the vote of confidence Justin. I gave the wife the "I really don't wanna blow another motor" speech yesterday and she was understanding, but even more nervous of cost. I say $6-7k but I know it will easily go $1000 over on the little things that always seem to pop up...

taken19

Nobody with suggestions? Now's you chance to build you dream motor on my dime!!! Only caveat is that I get to keep it. Keep total price to $5-6k as i will be about $1k in repairing the heads.

JUIC3D

Man I wish I knew about this road race stuff but I don't. I keep hoping the experts chime in with their opinions.

You should see about PMing Whiteknight(I'm not 100% sure of his spelling but I know he's the LS3 road race guru)

taken19

Don't sweat it, I see it as another opportunity to learn something. You are becoming a forum jedi with your motor Hp and time slips - maybe I can do the same in the road race arena. I know that I have a long way to go, but I'm up for the challenge.

Once I get this car back together, you should stop down for a weekend to see what this road race thing all about. In a recent search, I saw some old posts by you indicating that you were considering the road course yourself. I will take you out for a session or two if you take me for a 10 second 1/4 mile ride...

Deal?

JUIC3D

Sounds like a plan to me.

Ya, I was considering attending some HDPEs at Sebring to learn the road course aspect of driving, but the LS3 oil starvation scared me away. I didn't have the coin to drop $5,000 on a proper dry sump setup and I didn't want to trade my car in for a Grand Sport which is so much heavier than my coupe. I can't remember the thread I posted in, but WhiteKnight was very helpful and was the one who originally mentioned the oiling issues with the LS3. I had big plans of a cam, bolt-ons etc, but he swore up and down that it would break if I took it to a road course and held a sustained left hand turn with any kind of lateral G forces applied.

I decided I'd focus on the dragstrip and, well, it seems to be working so far. I just want 1 more cool day to see if I can squeeze out a 10.6@130 and take the top spot in my category.

That sounds like a pretty good deal to me. I'll absolutely be needing a clutch in this thing-maybe we can plan for it sometime in April? I won't be able to dragrace the car after the clutch install of course, but maybe we can see about the road course and take a raincheck on the dragstrip? I've never actually had someone in my car at the dragstrip as I don't have a second helmet and usually the seat is removed. I'm sure we can figure something out though.

I'll definitely be needing a mini-vacation after this tax season--perhaps a road trip to the east coast is just the ticket.