2011 2LT couple, 1,167 miles 6 service visits to dealer since new to correct right pull at interstate speeds. Alignment numbers all show within limits, dealer has given up saying “it’s within specs” and new large tires will cause this type of drift needing constant left turn input...wrong. My sixth Corvette including a C5. GM customer service is a bureaucratic process to get through different levels to a tech rep; no luck yet, 3rd day of calls. It will pull right from the left lane (sloped left) across the highway and dramatically accelerate the drift in the right. Pull is strong enough in the right lane (slight slope to right) it makes the car unsafe to drive. They say the tires are okay and will not replace the fronts. (Goodyear)??! I’ve suggested they look at dragging brake, over/under torqued bearing, power steering.

Any ideas of how to get in touch with SE US Zone manager or someone who can help or possibly solve problem. Dealer’s name will go in thread if no progress is made shortly. I just want it fixed.

 

Spend $90-$100 and get it aligned at a tire dealer that has the latest in equipment. Then take the receipt and your past papers where you tried to get your dealer to fix the problem, and ask them to reimburse you. I know that the principal of the thing demands you fight them to the end, but sometimes it's best to get the problem fixed and keep your sanity intact.

 

I highly doubt this is an alignment or tire issue. Agree it could be dragging brake with the caliper seized on the guide pins that slide in the caliper frame. If this is the case though you should notice a brake smell or a hot brake adter driving a few miles on th a highway.

Another thing to look at is the power steering rack becasue if the valving in the rack is not set-up/adjusted properly it will cause pulling like you describe. My understanding is this is a setting that has to be done absolutely right and it can be difficult to get right (i.e.: tolerance level is very very small).

 

On your alignment sheet, what is your thrust angle?

 

Thrust angle set at .01, was at -.01 previously. Could not feel any difference.

 

What’s the best way to check if might be a power steering valve problem, start the car up with the front end raised and see if the wheels turn when the systems powers up?

 

Fire the dealer. They don't know what they're doing if they keep handing a broken car back to the customer. You've given them 5 too many opportunities to fix this. Were they hoping you just wouldn't notice?

With six failed attempts to fix the same problem, you may be entitled to a lemon law action. Maybe that will get GM's attention.

Anyway, as for the actual problem: swap out all the wheels and tires with another C6 to eliminate the wheels and tires from suspicion. The dealer really ought to do this for you, and let you drive the car to confirm. If they won't, maybe a CF member in your area can help you out.

If it's dragging a brake, that wheel will get hotter than the other. Test the temperature using the palm of your hand. Be sure to check both axles.

A shade-tree test for power-steering malfunction would be to kill the motor at speed and see if the car still pulls to one side. WARNING: the steering will require extra effort - potentially _significant_ extra effort if the car is pulling - and you'll only get a few more applications of the brake pedal before you use up all your booster vacuum. Do not attempt if you're at all uncomfortable performing these kinds of shenanigans.

Finally, alignment. This one will cost a little money. Take it to the independent shop where the fast guys go and have them take a look. Probably worth doing even though you're owed free warranty service from GM. I'd rather have my car fixed properly.

 

Switch the front tires side to side and drive it to see if the pull follows the tire or if it goes away. I know that the tires are probably directional, but this may tell you if it is a bad tire.

 

Actually swapped front tires and remounted them. Didn’t make any difference. However, if the tires had a right bias, I’d think they still have the same pull given they were spinning in the same direction, just mounted on different sides.

 

That's what I would do..........but be carefull how you jack the car up and make sure it is on jackstands.

When checking the brakes be careful about putting you hand on the wheel or brake. If that is actually what it is, it can get hot enough to cause a burn.

 

Thanks for the power steering test, and other info. Actually well past this state’s lemon law thresh-hold. Don’t really want to go that way unless I have to.

 

I agree if you dismounted them and switched them then the pull should have changed if it was a tire. So what next? Steering rack? One other thought...have you driven on different roads and still had the pull?

 

Are we sure that this is not the active handling system kicking in...is it a steady pull all the time or does it happen suddenly?

 

How much of a pull are you getting? Do you have to turn the steering wheel to get the car to go straight or do you fight the pull by putting left pressure on the steering wheel. If you are turning the steering wheel that strongly hints you have a thrust angle issue. What did they mean by telling you the car is within specs? Did they give you a printout with the machine's readings showing the settings were in tolerance? Were the settings just in tolerance or were they centered as close as possible to the center value? The alignment settings are so wide that you can have them in tolerance and still have a misaligned car.

Your alignment should be set to the FE1/FE2/FE3 readings shown here:


If the caster is off on one side you can get a pull. I suspect you are at the limits of the alignment mechanic's technical skills (meaning he knows how to set the alignment but doesn't know how to diagnose an issue and solve it).
Bill

 

Invoke the Lemon, Law and demand a new car. Bet that gets their attention!

George

 

common things to check would be ball joints and tie rod ends. Most pulling issues I have ever had in cars were due to worn tie rod ends

less common:
when I had my front spring swapped out, I found the original was missing the height adjuster pad on the passenger side - apparently it had worn out and broken off. this had been causing high speed instability/pulling. its relatively easy to check for this as well.

 

worn out, on a less than 2 year old car with 1167 miles? come on. missing, maybe. worn out, I doubt it.

are these the original wheels that came with the car? prior to the pulling, have you done anything at all to the car, the suspension, the tires, the engine, etc.?

said another way, is this car completely stock and "unmolested" as the exotic car auction sites would say?

 

That's what I was thinking. Sounds like it's calling for brake and swerving. Wasn't there a wiring issue in the steering column that made cars pull when the active handling wasn't getting the entire stream of information?

Elmer

 

That active handling issue with the wiring harness on the steering column was a 2005/2006 issue. The fix was to install a plastic clip to better hold the wiring harness on the steering column. Had it done on my car. There is a sticky on this topic at the top of this section.

 

True, but it still could just be that something went wrong with A/H in his car....hope we hear from him again...