Inconsistencies with pfadt instructions - please help
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,582
Likes: 46
From: va
Inconsistencies with pfadt instructions - please help
While looking at the camber plate kit installation instructions and the poly bushing kit installation instructions, I have noticed an inconsistency which has me confused:
The camber plate kit instructions state: "A 1mm shim placed on each stud is approximately 0.2 degrees of camber."
The poly kit instructions state: "Upper pivot pins have a 2mm offset to give you more flexibility when setting
your camber. By flipping the pin over you change the camber by approximately
0.8 degrees"
what is correct and what isnt?
I want to flip the pins around so I can run less shims but need to know how much shim to actually remove from the upper front control arms...
Thank you very much!
The camber plate kit instructions state: "A 1mm shim placed on each stud is approximately 0.2 degrees of camber."
The poly kit instructions state: "Upper pivot pins have a 2mm offset to give you more flexibility when setting
your camber. By flipping the pin over you change the camber by approximately
0.8 degrees"
what is correct and what isnt?
I want to flip the pins around so I can run less shims but need to know how much shim to actually remove from the upper front control arms...
Thank you very much!
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 35
From: Turlock CA
While looking at the camber plate kit installation instructions and the poly bushing kit installation instructions, I have noticed an inconsistency which has me confused:
The camber plate kit instructions state: "A 1mm shim placed on each stud is approximately 0.2 degrees of camber."
The poly kit instructions state: "Upper pivot pins have a 2mm offset to give you more flexibility when setting
your camber. By flipping the pin over you change the camber by approximately
0.8 degrees"
what is correct and what isnt?
I want to flip the pins around so I can run less shims but need to know how much shim to actually remove from the upper front control arms...
Thank you very much!
The camber plate kit instructions state: "A 1mm shim placed on each stud is approximately 0.2 degrees of camber."
The poly kit instructions state: "Upper pivot pins have a 2mm offset to give you more flexibility when setting
your camber. By flipping the pin over you change the camber by approximately
0.8 degrees"
what is correct and what isnt?
I want to flip the pins around so I can run less shims but need to know how much shim to actually remove from the upper front control arms...
Thank you very much!
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,582
Likes: 46
From: va
thanks or the reply -
the car is getting finished off now, but I noticed the other day that it had a lot of shims to the point of only leaving 1 thread past the nut on at least one of the studs. this has left me paranoid, so Ive been considering flipping the pins to low camber mode (if they havent been already) and then removing however many mm of shims in order to have a little more of a safety net in case the nut comes loose.
I dont know what caused them to use so many damn shims to get it to a 1.5 front setting - especially when considering that you were able to run the high camber setting and still get it all the way to zero with the shims... Im hoping they didnt install the stud backwards
the car is getting finished off now, but I noticed the other day that it had a lot of shims to the point of only leaving 1 thread past the nut on at least one of the studs. this has left me paranoid, so Ive been considering flipping the pins to low camber mode (if they havent been already) and then removing however many mm of shims in order to have a little more of a safety net in case the nut comes loose.
I dont know what caused them to use so many damn shims to get it to a 1.5 front setting - especially when considering that you were able to run the high camber setting and still get it all the way to zero with the shims... Im hoping they didnt install the stud backwards
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,745
Likes: 35
From: Turlock CA
thanks or the reply -
the car is getting finished off now, but I noticed the other day that it had a lot of shims to the point of only leaving 1 thread past the nut on at least one of the studs. this has left me paranoid, so Ive been considering flipping the pins to low camber mode (if they havent been already) and then removing however many mm of shims in order to have a little more of a safety net in case the nut comes loose.
I dont know what caused them to use so many damn shims to get it to a 1.5 front setting - especially when considering that you were able to run the high camber setting and still get it all the way to zero with the shims... Im hoping they didnt install the stud backwards
the car is getting finished off now, but I noticed the other day that it had a lot of shims to the point of only leaving 1 thread past the nut on at least one of the studs. this has left me paranoid, so Ive been considering flipping the pins to low camber mode (if they havent been already) and then removing however many mm of shims in order to have a little more of a safety net in case the nut comes loose.
I dont know what caused them to use so many damn shims to get it to a 1.5 front setting - especially when considering that you were able to run the high camber setting and still get it all the way to zero with the shims... Im hoping they didnt install the stud backwards
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,724
Likes: 9
If you've got one thread past the body of the nut you've got plenty of engaged threads to provide full strength. Make sure the nut is properly torqued, but with one entire thread above the body of the nut you've got full strength. While the extra shimming the shop used may not be perfect, and you may end up with more piece of mind if the pin was properly flipped to the less aggressive side, as long as you ended up with the desired camber and the car was properly aligned afterwards it should be just fine.
Given you didn't have a great experience with the folks who installed the kits it may not be a terrible idea to take it into a car that specializes in Race Car prep and have them take a look at it... but if the post alignment sheet for the car looks right and the vehicle performs well there isn't a pressing need to tear it apart.
If you're still a little worried take a couple pictures of how the setup was performed and shoot it over to jarrett@pfadtracing.com. Myself and a couple of the engineers in the office can take a look at what's going on and if anything needs to be changed we can make a recommendation! Let me know if you need anything else!
Given you didn't have a great experience with the folks who installed the kits it may not be a terrible idea to take it into a car that specializes in Race Car prep and have them take a look at it... but if the post alignment sheet for the car looks right and the vehicle performs well there isn't a pressing need to tear it apart.
If you're still a little worried take a couple pictures of how the setup was performed and shoot it over to jarrett@pfadtracing.com. Myself and a couple of the engineers in the office can take a look at what's going on and if anything needs to be changed we can make a recommendation! Let me know if you need anything else!
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3,582
Likes: 46
From: va
Thanks for the information everyone. I really appreciate the input.
I checked and the pins were already flipped around so I guess its best left as is. Im so used to scrutinizing over everything that Ive rarely ever been able to enjoy my nicer cars until they get to the point where theyre too damn old or worn out to worry about.
In terms of the performance, the car is very different. I havent gotten to test it out in the country yet - just the highway. The response was better along with the road feel, but ironically I was hitting .98g without realizing it on the ramps, whereas with the rubber bushings I would definitely "feel" what was going on at that speed. It took me a while to realize it, but what I was missing was the vehicle shifting around.
Overall, Im glad I had this done to the car. The labor takes a while, but for a $300 poly kit, it makes a huge difference in handling by giving the car that connection that it didnt have from the factory.
I checked and the pins were already flipped around so I guess its best left as is. Im so used to scrutinizing over everything that Ive rarely ever been able to enjoy my nicer cars until they get to the point where theyre too damn old or worn out to worry about.
In terms of the performance, the car is very different. I havent gotten to test it out in the country yet - just the highway. The response was better along with the road feel, but ironically I was hitting .98g without realizing it on the ramps, whereas with the rubber bushings I would definitely "feel" what was going on at that speed. It took me a while to realize it, but what I was missing was the vehicle shifting around.
Overall, Im glad I had this done to the car. The labor takes a while, but for a $300 poly kit, it makes a huge difference in handling by giving the car that connection that it didnt have from the factory.