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2008 Suspension Issue?

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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 09:32 AM
  #1  
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Default 2008 Suspension Issue?

Driving to work this morning I herd deep knocks when taking hard left turns.

Car only has 38k and most of it has been highway miles.

I just had the rear driver side shock assembly replaced because of a bad censor. But i'm fairly certain this noise is coming from one of the front mounts.

Either way I've been having a ton of issues since I brought it out this spring with a transmission pan leak, (needed a new seal) and a ride control issue where the rear shock assem. needed to be replaced (under GMPP)

This will be the third time to the dealership in march alone...
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 09:59 AM
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Tie rod end link?
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 01:23 PM
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Default 2008

I have an '08 too. I have done a bit of research into this. I heard a sound too while turning. It's hard to tell where its comming from because of the acoustics of the car. I have narrowed it down to: Axle Nut needs to be torqued, Swaybar end links, Rear End Diff Fluid needs to be replaced with one w/a special additive or wheel drive shaft nut. I am taking it in tommorow to have them check all of these things. I want that sound gone.
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 02:40 PM
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Ive dealt with the issue by going through 3 sets of endlinks, 2 sets of axle nuts, 2 sets of sway bar bushings, having the front brakes serviced, and retorquing everything attached to the subframe/suspension repeatedly. It wasnt until I had the control arm bushings replaced that the noise went away.

Have a tech test the entire car out for noise to pinpoint exactly whats going on. Going back ten times to fix the same problem is never fun and can get costly!
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Old Mar 28, 2012 | 02:46 PM
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I would agree with the CA bushing. The endlinks can knock too, as can a few other things. But if, as you describe, the knock is substantially louder than an end-link should be then it stands to reason it's coming from a much more load-bearing joint- i.e. CA bushing.

I know this sounds like a stretch, but if you know anybody with a GoPro, borrow it and mount it somewhere along the chassis (out of harms way obviously), orient it towards each suspected joint, and take a drive. The noise you're hearing, if so severe, should happen in conjunction with a visible movement from something, somewhere. I only suggest this because it's often still too difficult to reproduce the movement by hand when the car is static.
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